bodyrollin'

ok so in looking over some of the info provided by some of the members on here i see that the atkins master rebuild kit costs 899, not to mention the time to rebuild (which i wouldnt mind learning, but still, time is money right?) while i am finding most 13BT swaps with transmission, and everything for around 850...so my question is why rebuild? what all would be involved in the swap from na to turbo as far as the wiring, and mounts go? and what would be the pros and cons to both?

leftcoastdrifter

iTrader: (17)

swapping it is gonna cost more then just 850. that's probably just for the motor and trans, you still need the boost sensor, maf sensor, wiring harness, and ecu from a turbo motor. then you need to find and cut the alternator signal wire on the NA chassis harness to the ecu i believe, otherwise it will send the ecu a alt voltage reading when the ecu thinks it's a boost voltage signal. had this happen on a friends car and you run into some interesting problems.

also, drive shaft. you can either upgrade to a T2 diff and get the drive shaft for it or stick with you NA diff and look up which shaft you need for a T2 trans to NA diff. i know you can get your stock shaft to fit but i've heard stories of them not fitting quite right and breaking stuff. i have no personal experiance with that though so i can't say for sure.

T2 is better in the long run but it's a financial burden so choose accordingly.

bodyrollin'

850 includes the following...

Motor with the turbo
Transmission (5sp)
All required Cables Cam angle sensor (CAS)
Complete Intake Manifold
Alternator
A/C
Power Steering Pump
All Brackets and Sensors
Shiftlinkage

farberio

iTrader: (7)

So you will still need the correct driveshaft, computer, and optional possible a TII rear end.

Oh and your not guaranteed in condition of the motor, if it pops on you as well then what?

Fc3s_d1jp

or you can get a good deal like me! $300 for a TII engine, in the process of rebuilding my self.

leftcoastdrifter

iTrader: (17)

dude, read what i wrote, you still need T2 boost sensor, maf sensor, ecu and wiring harness. almost every wiring harness is cut if you buy a swap online and even if it isn't you do know a JDM harness won't work right? think about it for a minute and i'm sure you'll figure it out.

and i forgot about the fact that you need the T2 hood as well or you need to make your own piping for an intercooler.

Fc3s_d1jp

But you could always use n/a harness, thats what I'm going to do. Just have to switch some wires around.

micah

The logistics of this TII swap has been covered on this forum virtually hundreds of times in the last year alone... If you have to ask, you aren't ready. Keep clicking 'search' and finding the facts.

I guarantee you will have spent over 1000 dollars by the time you are done... regardless of which method you chose.. Probably closer to 1500-2000 if you don't skimp out on important things like thermostats, new oil pump, etc...

Good luck though and welcome to the forum.

RX7freak08

I also believe the n/a is more reliable compare to the t2

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Just an opinion based on past threads, but people tend to do both depending on whether they want an NA or a turbo. Both are quite common, both are perfectly feasible. So just ask yourself what you want.

JDM TII swap is $1500 but you may or may not get a good one. A good rebuild is a little under $3k. A full OEM rebuild kit is $1200 basically for all the seals, though if I understand correct a couple seals/etc. may be re-used if they're up to spec. Lower quality rebuilds go as low as $1500, and likewise non-OEM seals/etc. can be cheaper. If you swap be sure to get the engine from the same series as your current car. That way you can just drop in and everything will match up. s4 = 1986-1988, s5 = 1989-1992.

TII is more powerful while NA is more reliable, of course. The extra TII problems revolve around the extra maintenance for the turbo, and a blown engine from too much boost and/or not tuning rich enough to counter the extra boost. Too much boost may come intentionally or from poor boost control (from a bad part, etc.). Besides poor tuning, running lean (not rich) can come from insufficient fuel delivery (from bad parts at stock power or b/c stock parts can't handle the higher power levels).