Hillbillytuner

I'm thinking of buying this kit is it a good one

http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...cat=627&page=1

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

atkins kits are legit stuff but if you need apex seals, I hear rotary aviations super seals are better then atkins. they take a little more abuse basically. check on them, ALS, and goopy apex seals. give the shops calls to know more. you should swap apex seals whenever you do a rebuild. but that kit looks fine to me. rotary aviation also has rebuild kits that are decent. compare prices and whats included.

Hillbillytuner

Nice i like the RA super seals i think im going to piece together a kit with these seals and springs

Ryan123

iTrader: (3)

Here is an over view of a bunch of different seal manufactures.

There are a few good descriptions in the comments too

https://www.rx7club.com/general-rotary-tech-support-11/what-apex-seal-use-916777/

Andrew

iTrader: (1)

I used an Atkins kit on my last rebuild. Only thing I swapped out was the corner seals for stock ones. There's lots of debate about solid vs stock corners, I just wanted to play it safe.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I used an Atkins kit but used Mazda apex seals. I was generally pleased, but two oil control rings snapped upon installation and I had to reuse old ones. Not a big deal though since I had the new rubber which is the more critical of the two parts to the oil control rings. I also bought it second hand, so it's possible they suffered during shipping. I'd buy one of their kits again.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

That is a decent kit.

Sometimes you just have to pay someone to do the "leg work" for you a bit. saves you a lot of time trying to find them piece by piece (and order them)

RA seals (rather super or regular) are kinda hard on the Rotor housing so if its mostly a street car/longevity is your main concern/power level is stock or just slightly above stock (say, maybe 10-15%) then Stock Apex is more than enough

What I use? NRS coming to me baby getting the 2 pc because it will work better than stock.

DaBrkddy

I purchased a Racing Beat rebuild kit. It uses all stock Mazda rotor seals.

I've seen a friend's engine disassembled that was supposedly built by Atkins that had 2 piece apex seals in it, and a thermal bypass pellet just like the one Atkins sells (it was an S4 engine). The rotor housings had horrible chatter marks compared to my engine that had stock Mazda 3 piece seals, and roughly the same amount of miles.

The difference between the death of the two engines though was that my "Stock Mazda" blew an apex seal on the rear rotor because I didn't warm it up properly, and the "Atkins style" engine blew a coolant seal due to lack of proper cooling system maintenance.

Just my opinion, I'd spend the extra cash and go with Racing Beat/stock Mazda seals. My rationale: had I properly warmed my engine up, it would still be alive and running to this day. Had my friend properly maintained his engine's cooling system, he would later suffer when he had a loss of compression due to the extremely deep chatter marks.

Remember to properly break the engine in, and always warm it up before taking off... Oh and properly maintain your cooling and oiling systems.

FC_fan

iTrader: (2)

you don't have to let it get to operating temp before you take off.lol. just don't beat the crap out of it before its at operating temp. you can drive it regularly around town 1 minute after start up unless it is in the winter on a very cold day. but thats common sense, as is general maintenance on these cars. I am speaking of course after proper break in on a rebuild. you want to baby for the first 100-200 miles and drive regularly until the 500 mile mark. during this break in period, yes it is better to have the engine at operating temp before taking off. I wouldn't do any spirited driving until I hit the 800 mile mark but thats just me.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's funny, everyone immediately jumps on the apex seal bandwagon when discussing rebuild kits, but honestly, Atkins seals have been used for YEARS in many, many, many engines and are fine.

Now the thing that really bothers me about the Atkins rebuild kits are that they come with non-OEM oil o-rings. Compared to the green and black OEM rings, the Atkins black viton rings are a PAIN IN THE *** to get seated into the rotors. They always seem to cause the o-ring carriers to pop back out once pressed in and it takes twice the time to assemble the rotors. At least in my experience. I'm always left wondering whether they stayed in place during the build until the engine is up and running (and not smoking). I don't think the outer coolant o-ring in the Atkins kits is OEM, but that's less important to me as it does the job and is easy to install.

I prefer ordering OEM corner seals with the rubber plugs when ordering Atkins rebuild kits, as the OEM rubber plugs are designed to dampen chatter and I don't believe solid seals are as chatter proof in a daily driven application.

Hillbillytuner

I like all the info im getting here my first step is getting the block together im thinking pine apple porting plaits i'm thinking of using there seals to. I'm looking for long lasting abuse when I want take it to the track and still drive it to work the next day

tweaked

iTrader: (4)

Marry a Catholic or a Jewish girl.