Quick pulsation damper question...
02-02-07, 04:53 PM
#1
Quick pulsation damper question...
I popped the cap off the pulsation damper on my S4 and found the little screw with black rubber o-ring laying inside. It took me about an hour to finagle the screw back where it belongs, but I got back in and tightened up. Am I good to go??
02-02-07, 06:20 PM
#2
Strength and Honor
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I believe Icemark will have something to say about this. I'll post a link to one of his answer if I can find it. In the mean time though, I believe your PD isn't safe.
02-02-07, 06:25 PM
#4
A loose screw in there means its bad, you dont want to try fixing this because if it goes completely bad while youre driving it can cause an engine fire.
If the screw wasnt loose inside there an was still in there like it was suppose to be then youd be fine, but since it was all messed up you need to replace it with a new pulsation dampener or do the banjo bolt mod.
If the screw wasnt loose inside there an was still in there like it was suppose to be then youd be fine, but since it was all messed up you need to replace it with a new pulsation dampener or do the banjo bolt mod.
02-02-07, 06:27 PM
#5
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Here we go: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=10
Originally Posted by Icemark
The screw is to limit the travel of the diaphram in the PD. Screwing it all the way down or removing it is the quickest way to distroy the PD, leading to fuel leaks and possible lean run conditions.
02-02-07, 11:16 PM
#7
A new PD is $150. I paid a mechanic $350 to replace mine. Or you can do the banjo bolt mod. But, you know, there's a reason why manufacturers keep putting fuel pulsation dampeners on fuel injected vehicles to this day. They're there to damp the fuel pressure pulses. If/when/what/how much it will damage in your fuel system later, I dunno.
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02-02-07, 11:27 PM
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Replace the PD. It is almost impossible to put the screw back in and get the correct depth and settings for it:
S3-S4 design:
S5-S6 design:
S3-S4 design:
S5-S6 design:
02-03-07, 10:30 AM
#11
I posted last week that I found the screw out and laying inside the cap on my 88 T2
which has 19 years and 62k on the clock.
Since I`m upgrading my plan is to modify the fuel rail into a parallel setup that is well laid out here; http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm
I`ll eliminate the stock PD and FPR, and go to an adjustable FPR. I`m upgrading primary and secondary injectors as well as turbo/manifold also.
At least that is the plan as of right now.
Thought I`d chime in on this as I am still gathering info.
which has 19 years and 62k on the clock.
Since I`m upgrading my plan is to modify the fuel rail into a parallel setup that is well laid out here; http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm
I`ll eliminate the stock PD and FPR, and go to an adjustable FPR. I`m upgrading primary and secondary injectors as well as turbo/manifold also.
At least that is the plan as of right now.
Thought I`d chime in on this as I am still gathering info.
02-03-07, 11:27 AM
#13
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by JasonS
So, some of these guys are just installing a banjo bolt on each end of the fuel rail? Why not just JB Weld the thing?
You can use a banjo bolt, but you may have lean spots at particular RPMs.
02-03-07, 11:59 AM
#15
RotoriousRx7
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has anyone ever expirenced this lean spot that icemark is talking about becuase i posted a thread about a lean spot after installing my rtek 1.7 and i had to do the banjo bolt mod for now to get it back on the road but my leanspot is at very light throttle and around the staging rpm for secondaries
02-03-07, 01:26 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Icemark
Because as shown in the picture, the screw moves in and out. JB weld would prevent that.
You can use a banjo bolt, but you may have lean spots at particular RPMs.
You can use a banjo bolt, but you may have lean spots at particular RPMs.
09-12-11, 03:57 PM
#17
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I realize that this topic has not been discussed in many years here, but I thought that I would contribute my experience since it seems to confirm some of what I've read. I installed a banjo and whether the engine is warm or cold, as I gradually increase the idle I am unable to achieve an idle between about 1100 and 1500 RPM's. The engine seems to just sit at 1100, then jumps to 1500 as the throttle is increased. The engine essentially runs fine and this is not a noticeable problem when driving. This situation did not exist before the simple banjo bolt addition.
My conclusion: Yes, it works fine if you're not too picky and yes it is probably creating a lean spot. Use this info as you choose.
My conclusion: Yes, it works fine if you're not too picky and yes it is probably creating a lean spot. Use this info as you choose.
09-12-11, 11:39 PM
#18
Lmao. Thanks for sharing, however....
Too bad anything over 1000 isn't really an "idle". Furthermore the absence or presence of a PD has nothing to do with idle (assuming you had one to begin with) nor does it fix or create lean spots. What you seem to have is a problem w/ vac leaks more than anything else.
Too bad anything over 1000 isn't really an "idle". Furthermore the absence or presence of a PD has nothing to do with idle (assuming you had one to begin with) nor does it fix or create lean spots. What you seem to have is a problem w/ vac leaks more than anything else.
09-13-11, 09:39 AM
#19
Engine, Not Motor
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I realize that this topic has not been discussed in many years here, but I thought that I would contribute my experience since it seems to confirm some of what I've read. I installed a banjo and whether the engine is warm or cold, as I gradually increase the idle I am unable to achieve an idle between about 1100 and 1500 RPM's. The engine seems to just sit at 1100, then jumps to 1500 as the throttle is increased. The engine essentially runs fine and this is not a noticeable problem when driving. This situation did not exist before the simple banjo bolt addition.
My conclusion: Yes, it works fine if you're not too picky and yes it is probably creating a lean spot. Use this info as you choose.
My conclusion: Yes, it works fine if you're not too picky and yes it is probably creating a lean spot. Use this info as you choose.
09-13-11, 04:03 PM
#20
AHHH ZOMBIE THREAD!
... anyways...
I have the banjo bolt mod done to my car.
I took it to the dyno to have it tuned (with my haltech e6k) and there were no lean spots or anything weird like that. I had my idle rock solid at 800 rpms with 4 x 1000cc Injector Dynamics Injectors and a Venom 255lph fuel pump with the stock FPR.
The car had great AFRs throughout the rpm range at low throttle and WOT.
That is, before I spun a bearing, but that is neither here nor there, its just sad
MAYBE not having a Pulsation Dampener can cause your injectors to wear prematurely, I don't know, I haven't had the car running long enough to test that. So far as I know there is no proof that the pulsation dampener even does anything at all to help injector health. But I know for a fact it doesn't create a lean spot or change your idle.
... anyways...
I have the banjo bolt mod done to my car.
I took it to the dyno to have it tuned (with my haltech e6k) and there were no lean spots or anything weird like that. I had my idle rock solid at 800 rpms with 4 x 1000cc Injector Dynamics Injectors and a Venom 255lph fuel pump with the stock FPR.
The car had great AFRs throughout the rpm range at low throttle and WOT.
That is, before I spun a bearing, but that is neither here nor there, its just sad
MAYBE not having a Pulsation Dampener can cause your injectors to wear prematurely, I don't know, I haven't had the car running long enough to test that. So far as I know there is no proof that the pulsation dampener even does anything at all to help injector health. But I know for a fact it doesn't create a lean spot or change your idle.
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