2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Quick pulsation damper question...

Old Feb 2, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #1  
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From: Sweet Home Alabama
Quick pulsation damper question...

I popped the cap off the pulsation damper on my S4 and found the little screw with black rubber o-ring laying inside. It took me about an hour to finagle the screw back where it belongs, but I got back in and tightened up. Am I good to go??
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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I believe Icemark will have something to say about this. I'll post a link to one of his answer if I can find it. In the mean time though, I believe your PD isn't safe.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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Does your car have more than 100,000 mies? If yes, change it or remove it regardless of wether it's 'working' again or not.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 06:25 PM
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A loose screw in there means its bad, you dont want to try fixing this because if it goes completely bad while youre driving it can cause an engine fire.

If the screw wasnt loose inside there an was still in there like it was suppose to be then youd be fine, but since it was all messed up you need to replace it with a new pulsation dampener or do the banjo bolt mod.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Here we go: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=10

Originally Posted by Icemark
The screw is to limit the travel of the diaphram in the PD. Screwing it all the way down or removing it is the quickest way to distroy the PD, leading to fuel leaks and possible lean run conditions.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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chunk it. time for a banjo fitting!
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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A new PD is $150. I paid a mechanic $350 to replace mine. Or you can do the banjo bolt mod. But, you know, there's a reason why manufacturers keep putting fuel pulsation dampeners on fuel injected vehicles to this day. They're there to damp the fuel pressure pulses. If/when/what/how much it will damage in your fuel system later, I dunno.
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 11:27 PM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Replace the PD. It is almost impossible to put the screw back in and get the correct depth and settings for it:

S3-S4 design:



S5-S6 design:

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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:10 AM
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GREAT GREAT diagram. Thanks!!
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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Well, I'm an idiot, because I got the screw in and tightened it down the best I could.

I'll try to get in there and fix it, until then...I'm driving it. Maybe I should stop by AAA and get full coverage!
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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I posted last week that I found the screw out and laying inside the cap on my 88 T2
which has 19 years and 62k on the clock.
Since I`m upgrading my plan is to modify the fuel rail into a parallel setup that is well laid out here; http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm
I`ll eliminate the stock PD and FPR, and go to an adjustable FPR. I`m upgrading primary and secondary injectors as well as turbo/manifold also.
At least that is the plan as of right now.

Thought I`d chime in on this as I am still gathering info.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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From: Sweet Home Alabama
So, some of these guys are just installing a banjo bolt on each end of the fuel rail? Why not just JB Weld the thing?
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by JasonS
So, some of these guys are just installing a banjo bolt on each end of the fuel rail? Why not just JB Weld the thing?
Because as shown in the picture, the screw moves in and out. JB weld would prevent that.

You can use a banjo bolt, but you may have lean spots at particular RPMs.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
You can use a banjo bolt, but you may have lean spots at particular RPMs.
And that is what is bugging me. I may indeed go with the Marrin PD just so I won`t expose my engine to that possibility.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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From: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
has anyone ever expirenced this lean spot that icemark is talking about becuase i posted a thread about a lean spot after installing my rtek 1.7 and i had to do the banjo bolt mod for now to get it back on the road but my leanspot is at very light throttle and around the staging rpm for secondaries
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
Because as shown in the picture, the screw moves in and out. JB weld would prevent that.

You can use a banjo bolt, but you may have lean spots at particular RPMs.
Using a banjo bolt would prevent that as well...right? All the banjo bolt is doing is capping off the end of the fuel rail from what I can tell.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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I realize that this topic has not been discussed in many years here, but I thought that I would contribute my experience since it seems to confirm some of what I've read. I installed a banjo and whether the engine is warm or cold, as I gradually increase the idle I am unable to achieve an idle between about 1100 and 1500 RPM's. The engine seems to just sit at 1100, then jumps to 1500 as the throttle is increased. The engine essentially runs fine and this is not a noticeable problem when driving. This situation did not exist before the simple banjo bolt addition.

My conclusion: Yes, it works fine if you're not too picky and yes it is probably creating a lean spot. Use this info as you choose.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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Lmao. Thanks for sharing, however....

Too bad anything over 1000 isn't really an "idle". Furthermore the absence or presence of a PD has nothing to do with idle (assuming you had one to begin with) nor does it fix or create lean spots. What you seem to have is a problem w/ vac leaks more than anything else.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Pamela Anderson
I realize that this topic has not been discussed in many years here, but I thought that I would contribute my experience since it seems to confirm some of what I've read. I installed a banjo and whether the engine is warm or cold, as I gradually increase the idle I am unable to achieve an idle between about 1100 and 1500 RPM's. The engine seems to just sit at 1100, then jumps to 1500 as the throttle is increased. The engine essentially runs fine and this is not a noticeable problem when driving. This situation did not exist before the simple banjo bolt addition.
My conclusion: Yes, it works fine if you're not too picky and yes it is probably creating a lean spot. Use this info as you choose.
I think you just created a vacuum leak.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 04:03 PM
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AHHH ZOMBIE THREAD!

... anyways...

I have the banjo bolt mod done to my car.

I took it to the dyno to have it tuned (with my haltech e6k) and there were no lean spots or anything weird like that. I had my idle rock solid at 800 rpms with 4 x 1000cc Injector Dynamics Injectors and a Venom 255lph fuel pump with the stock FPR.

The car had great AFRs throughout the rpm range at low throttle and WOT.
That is, before I spun a bearing, but that is neither here nor there, its just sad

MAYBE not having a Pulsation Dampener can cause your injectors to wear prematurely, I don't know, I haven't had the car running long enough to test that. So far as I know there is no proof that the pulsation dampener even does anything at all to help injector health. But I know for a fact it doesn't create a lean spot or change your idle.
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