I've seen plenty of helpful threads about setting the timing. I've been searching for threads explaining how to advance the timing on a modified engine.

Is TDC "good enough" on a modified engine? Does it necessarily have to be advanced to see it's full potential? Should this only be done by your tuner? Is it the rotation of the CAS one way or the other? (retard or advance)

Perhaps I don't know enough about retarding or advancing the timing to even question it. That is why I am asking.

 

Beware, this room has more smart asses then helpful people. I started off with the right mark (YELLOW) from what i am told lined up to the PIN. Then See how it Drives, then maybe advance it 5 or 10 As long as its not missing, Depending what year car you have

 

Need full details on your setup and what you plan to do with the car.

 

I know how to set the timing. That isn't really my question.

My set up is:
Mild street port
3mm apex seals
APEX'i Power FC for FD3S with commander
Banzai Racing Power FC adapter for S4
Koyo radiator
FMIC
HKS SSQV III blow off valve
ACT HD clutch plate
ACT SS clutch disc
ACT Prolite flywheel
BNR Stage 4 turbo
Cheap FPR
720cc primary fuel injectors
1,600cc secondary fuel injectors
Walbro fuel pump
Racing Beat REV TII Exhaust
130 Amp Ford Taurus alternator
All emissions removed

It's been tuned by Steve Kan. I kind of brought it to him running like a turd. lol - I plan to get the car in better/smoother running condition.

 

Leave the position of your CAS alone. Any timing changes would need to be done via the ECU.

Can you post your timing table? Honestly, chasing power by tuning timing in boost past what a fairly reputable tuner has already set it at is a bit dangerous.

 

yup. Do you have a Datalogit to access your Power FC with a laptop?

 

No, I do not have a Datalogit, and I am not able to post my timing table.

To make a long story short...

I have this damn ticking noise in my engine bay. I've ruled out turbo shaft play, exhaust leak, frayed belts, alternator, etc...

The noise seems to be coming from the turbo side. It's almost as if it may be something inside of the CHRA. But the BNR stage 4 turbo is as old as the engine. (Roughly 6,000 miles on them) - I keep thinking, what if this ticking noise has something to do with the coils firing when they shouldn't be. Is this absurd to think? Would it really be this loud outside and on this side of the engine?

Extra information: My coils are modified (dual igniter) for the Banzai Power FC adapter and I use a .065 restrictor pill for my BNR stage 4 turbo.

 

if it's a ratcheting noise on decel, it's your downpipe.

i have no idea why advancing timing came into the equation..

if it's a ticking noise randomly at idle, you probably have a loose exhaust sleeve in one of both of the rotor housings.

 

Is a loose exhaust sleeve bad?... If so, how much of a bitch is it to "fix"?

Timing came in... Because I am going crazy over this noise, and thinking of every possibilty. I have literally lost sleep over this problem.

 

well i had one customer who had a sleeve come loose because it was a used housing he bought from someone else. the pins were drilled out and screws put in, i didn't think much of it until several thousand miles later a ticking noise showed up from the engine, sounded like it was internal... we pulled the turbo off and sure enough it was sloppy and whacking the manifold with each pulse and warping the sleeve.

no easy way to tell without pulling the turbo off. but this is just a guess from personal experience.

only way to fix it is disassembling the engine..

 

Is it okay to drive it like this?

 

if it is a sleeve? i would say it isn't a good idea. at least not boosting it hard.

 

****.