Here's what im up to... I got a SPAL e-fan with the relay and 185*F thermo switch kit. I am running a Haltech E6X. Both my thermo switch and water temp sensor are 3/8 NPT. I got a "T" splitter 1 male/2 female, 3/8NPT and an extra fitting as an extension, it's necessary, because without it the splitter does not fit. It's fat and rubs against the alternator.

In all pics the fittings and sensors are mocked up, nothing is tight. You can see in the 4th pic the water temp sensor rubs against the intake manifold. Once all fittings are tight the sensor will clear for sure.

Reason why I chose this method... So I don't have to get the water pump housing machined and threaded for the 2nd sensor. Now my concern with the added length from the fittings is could this cause a bad circulation or inaccurate readings for either sensors ?

Has anyone tried this method ???
Or is this one of these methods/questions that makes me look dumb just for asking?, lol

 

Dunno whether that setup works or not, worth a shot, I suppose.
I will opine that 185° is way too low for the fan to be kicking in...the thermostat isn't even fully open at that point.
195° makes more sense as a start temp for the fan.

 

I doubt that a difference of 10*F from where the sensor is located compared to the thermostat opening would make that much of a difference... Not trying to be hard headed, thanks for your opinion but dosen't answer my question.

 

Your fan will run constantly.
Think of that not as an opinion but as the answer to a question you didn't know to ask.

 

You don't need the second sensor! The haltech has an programmable output for water temperature. Once the computer sees the temperature you set, it will use the output wire to trigger the fan (relay).

 

I don't know if this helps ya Roman.
I got a sender in my upper hose(Buddy club hose adapter with bung).
I also placed a sender in my thermo neck,where the neck meets the top( see that rounded section?,right beside your squared off drawing in pic#2)

 

Ding, ding ding!

 

My .02 on the 185 switch. I had a friend who used the same temperature to turn his fan on. That temp is so close to the temp at which your thermostat opens up that you are going to go through a lot of thermostats from it constantly opening and closing as your temps fluxuate right around it's opening point.

Those are his words.

 

Overall in every way this is a bad idea. Here is why:

Regardless of the temp of the fan switch (which IS too low) and the ability of the Haltech to switch your fan at a chosen temp, that setup for temperature sensing is a bad idea. The measured temps will NOT be accurate compared to the actual coolant temps. The temps measured will time lag the coolant temp, so anything the fan needs to do (turn on/off) and anything the Haltech needs to do (adjust mixture/maps) will be done later than it should happen.

Then, remember you are in Canada. The temperature measured will be biased by the outside temp. You will get a different bias on a 20* C day than on a -20*C day.

Return those parts to Home Depot and get your money back.

-Jack

 

Thanks for all your help guys. Those fittings I will scrap them. And I will install the water temp sensor back where it was, in the water pump housing. And I will attempt to hook up the haltech to the electric fan. Which wire is it ?

And as for accurate readings... Where would be the "CORRECT" spot or setup for temp sensing ?

 

The sensor for Haltech should be in the stock location at the water pump.That is where mine is anyways.
Ask this question in the Haltech Section Roman..C Ludwig( Chris) is a dealer and usually chimes in with info.

 

The haltech has 4 programmable outputs. So it's a matter of picking ANY spare output wire, and running it to a relay. Within the software, you pick the output #/wire and go from there.

 

Thanks that helps...

So where would be the ideal spot for temperature sensing to activate the fan ? In the water pump, in the rad or somewhere else ???

 

Also in the haltech wireing diagram i noticed a switch to 12v wire sensor supply via 10 amp fuse. Is that necessary for this or not at all ?

 

You use the haltech water temp sensor in the same place the stock car uses: behind the water pump. You will have to drill and tap it for the haltech sensor to fit. There is no second water temp sensor needed. It's all done via the software after that. You could have it activate at 200, and turn off at 185. Or whatever temps you choose.

 

Does the Haltech log data from this channel?

 

It can log temps, yes.

 

I meant can it log the fan activity, not the temps.

 

Oh.. as far as the output kicking in... don't think so. I don't have an E6x, but it's barely a step above my dinosaur E6k and that certainly doesn't have it. Not sure if the new haltechs (or any standalones) log that.

But what's there to log? You hit the programmed temp, the computer says "meh" and doesn't turn the fan on? The temp hit X degrees... the output is enabled. Not much to go wrong there...

 

C Ludwig sells a temp sensor that FITS the back of the waterpump.Just screws in.Done.
I got one with my PS1000.

 

It's not about worrying, it's about fine tuning the fan's performance- knowing how long the fan runs to maintain "x" temperature.

For instance (completely theoretical #s coming up...), say you have set a 190° fan trigger temp and the fan runs 40% of the time with an average temp of 185°.
Set the fan for 195° and the fan runs 30% of the time, temp averages 188°.

I might trade a 3° rise in average temp for 10% reduction in fan use.

Being able to log temps is cool but knowing how much work is required to achieve it would be even better.

 

Good luck with that! Are we launching the space shuttle, or driving an 80's japanese car?

 

To the OP, as has been said, we have a direct fit sensor replacement. No drilling or tapping needed. Install that and use the Haltech to control the fan. Easiest, cleanest solution.

The e-series ECUs don not log channel state. The Platinum series do. I'm with Beefy on the shuttle statement though. Depending on ambient conditions and engine load, the same settings will produce varying duty cycles. It's a waste of time even talking about it.

 

It's not that difficult, there aren't even hardware changes involved.
I've long thought that the main advantage of the efan over the stock setup is the control one has over operating cycles- the efan can be applied only when necessary, responding more quickly (both on and off) to changes in coolant temp.

If you could overlay a graph of fan run time onto a graph of coolant temp, you'd have all the data required to make an informed decision.

 

I like where this thread is going.

Also, I already have the water pump drilled and tapped for the haltech sensor.