On my FC, I've been leaking oil from my pan in 3 different places. First from the front because a bolt was stripped. I redid the threads, installed an oil baffle plate w/double gasket and longer bolts. Start the car, let it idle. Then it started leaking oil from the rear, just under the flywheel. Redid the same thing all over again and now it's leaking from the passenger side motor mount. And yes all the bolts are tightend in sequence and to spec. I'm beginning to think my oil pan is warped.

I'm thinking 2 things right now. Would an oil pan brace kit from Banzai Racing make a difference at this point or not. Or buy the FC oil pan from Pineapple racing.

What are your thoughts ?

 

Are you using sealant? RTV Black or Hondabond ?

 

neither, 2X original gaskets from mazda

 

Pineapple's pan is better than any oil pan brace.

 

What makes you so sure. I need some convincing.

 

I have built quite a few engines . I have 3 cars in my shop with that pan cat the moment...

 

Take your pan off and sand down the mating surface to bare metal. Make sure the engine side is clean as well.

Apply Gray RTV to engine, be sure that the RTV is to the inside of all the bolts, apply RTV to the pan. Apply RTV to both sides of the gasket.

Install. Done.

 

I don't even use pan gaskets with the baffle. 100% RTV, no runs, no drips ever.

 

^ that works too. Just follow the instructions on the RTV bottle.

Some want you to tighten right away, some want you to go finger tight till it dries a bit and then torque it down.

 

Possible he warped a housing and the sealant between iron|housing is leaking? The oil would flow down, around the oil pan; making it seem as if the pan is leaking.

 

The o-ringed oil pan leaks, especially if you put a baffle in the mix.

Here is a race only engine we built that spends nearly all of it's time at 8k rpm. Baffle, pan ,and our brace, NO gaskets used and not one leak. Permatex "The right stuff". If your pan is warped our brace will straighten it back out. I have seen the cast Aluminum pans with giant holes smashed in them from road debris. Factory pan is much better for a street car. The only thing the cast pan offers is more oil capacity.

 

^^damn, looks like a rod came through there.... uh, wait....

 

The brace is an awesome way to go, but if you need the car back on the road right now, you can use thick washers around each bolt. Get thicker fender washers, one for each bolt. You may need to get slightly longer bolts as well. Use one gasket, with a skim coat of sealant (RTV) on each side. Make sure the pan and the engine are TOTALLY CLEAN.

I've never had a leak on any of the pans I've done this way.

Using just an OEM gasket, or worse, two of them, is a sure way to invite leaks.

 

Mazda actually uses RTV from the factory on the Series II Rx-8.

 

Thanks guys. I'll be throwing out the mazda gaskets and getting an oil pan brace. And to be on the safe side a new oil pan from Mazda.