My new awesomness.
As far as I know, there is only one other guy to get this in the states, and he works for Motec USA. They just got this unit in from AUS a couple weeks ago. It gives me the power and tunablitly of Motec without all the extra drivers needed to run a piston motor. I was convinced to ge this route, rather than Haltech, due to the supurb software, and the adaptive ECU. Now I won't have to re-tune my car everytime the weather changes.

 

I'm planning to paint mine. I'm going to use the "Hard Nose" 2 part epoxy paints from the same guys that make POR-15. I've been told that it's indestructable and based on the success I have had with POR-15, there's no reason to doubt them.

Um, you shouldn't have to retune a Haltech (or a Microtech, Megasquirt, Wolf, etc.) when the weather changes either. Once you have your basic map set up, you then tune the corrections based on air and coolant temp. After that you should be all set.

 

Indestructable you say... we'll see how it handles curb rash! HAHA

Nah, but thanks for the info on the paint. I'll have to check them out. What kind of finish will the epoxy have? Different options?

My buddy is running the e6k and re-tunes it for summer/winter and then re-tunes if going to CA (more humid). Maybe he only has the map sensor, and not temp sensors...?

Also, my AEM wideband will work with motec. not sure about the other stand-alones...
Also thought the telemetry and wireless features are pretty sweet. I definetly have a lot to learn about tuning (that's why I won't be doing it on the first go-round).

 

In that case, powder coat will help but nothing will prevent damage if you knock the rim into something.

There are several finish options, but the colours are only the basics. I think most are semi-gloss .

He's definitly doing something wrong.

Almost all of them.

 

He's spraying methanol... maybe that has something to do with it...?

As for the rims, I am looking for black, thats pretty basic right : ) I think semi gloss would be fine.

I suppose sensors are sensors.

 

I've decided to use the stationary gears from a FD on my engine build. They have an oil passage machined in them that allows oil to stay behind the bearings (visible in these pictures). As you can see, the coated bearings have been pressed into place.

 

Motor Time!







The short block should be done tomorrow. I like this primary plate much better than the once on the first page of this thread!!

 

wow very nice work i wish i had the patience to make mine that nice

 

def takes a lot of that, and some chedda...
But it'll be worth it soon.

 

consider the short block done!
these Studs will make a huge difference with torque.

 

oooo nice, looking good bro. cant wait to see it in the car

 

ya, me neither. its difficult to wait this long for my ride. The trick is to fool myself into thinking it's not my car and it's not the type of project that has a finish date...

 

i just plan on never having mine finished lol, that way when it is done it will be like getting a brand new car

 

so here's the skinny today... since the cleanece between the rotors and housings is at the minimum for this motor, We decided to up the oil pressure and go with FD oil pressure reg. That should keep things nice and snug in the engine. It will also raise oil temps a little, but with proper circulation and the coatings, i think it should even out.

A little bump in the process today. We realized that since the rotors where balanced, they belong in a certain order on the e-shaft. when we got them back from the balance shop, they were numbered with a marker, 1 and 2. But then the rotors were coated... there goes the marker! So its back to the balance shop to i.d. the proper position for the rotors...

 

Instead of the FD pressure regulator, you might just want to shim your own. That way you can set whatever oil pressure you desire.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/shimoil.htm

Funny about the rotors.

 

i just read that article,very helpful and seems very simple. Its amazong how much info can be found on your site.

There isnt anything about i.d.-ing balaned rotors is there?! That is pretty funny, such a small step like that overlooked. Just glad we caught it before we tried to fire up the motor!

 

You can also do a dual oil cooler setup with an additional FD oil cooler.

 

they are pretty small tho arent they

 

Yeah, you run them in parallel, using both the stock and the FD oil cooler.

 

i see. won't it get pretty tight under the hood?

I have been thinking about this one for a while, but how benificial would a trans cooler be? They are really inexpensive. I havent heard of many problems with FC trans, in fact, usually people boast about how rugged they are. But would the transmission cooler be a good ad on?

 

new spot for boost gauge.



Hopefully can replace this cheap piece with the AEM boost controller. That thing is SWEET

Dirty gas...



New fuel pump.



Oh, and we got the rotor thing figured out... LOL
They were in the right place, but it's best to double check.

 

Gone Manual...

 

Run the FD oil cooler near the driver side brake duct. You would need to have a custom line made that goes from the FD cooler to the FC.

 

I may do that, i am already moving my oil filter, and using a much bigger one, so there will be some custom fab-ing going on already.

 

woooooooow. nice progress man. cant wait to see it done! good luck on the rest of it.