> I just need a reference guide on how to convert a motor from stock to premix. With all the beans and gravy, dont's and do's...the whole package. Can't seem to find it here and I got limited net' time here in Iraq.

> It's for a friend of mine who's taking care of my 7 back home.

-thanks a plenty

CPL "Panda" Gorospe, USMC

 

search "remove omp", and really you can premix without pulling the OMP, but if you're premixing you might as well.

 

This topic has probably been covered more times than I can count..... but I'm feeling nice:

First off, it's a need to know which series it is... series 4 (86-88) or series 5 (89-91) The difference being a mechanical OMP (s4) and an electric OMP (s5) It's alot easier to remove the s4 OMP's cuz it's a simple remove, block off and go. Let's assume it's an s4 for now.

1- Remove the oil lines.
2- Block off the injectors. (bolts will work.)
3- Remove the OMP.
4- Manufacture or buy a block off plate for the OMP.
5- Install the block off plate.
6- Pre-mix your fuel.... about 1 ounce two stroke to one gallon gasoline
7- Enjoy! (refer to your handy, easy to get, FREE FSM for specifics on removal and location)

With the s5's, since the ECU needs to "see" that the OMP is functioning it gets a little trickier. Since you can't fully remove the thing without getting the car to go into "limp mode" every 10 minutes (not with the stock ECU anyway!) the best bet I've found is to remove the lines, block off the injectors and then dissasemble the OMP, disable the pump without disabling the sensor, re-install and then pre-mix it up.

For more specifics..... just search "remove oil metering pump" there really is alot of information on it.

If I have forgotten anything fellas.... flame on.

 

We really need a sticky on this, as several people ask this question every month.

Maybe something detailing the pros and cons of rebuilding the OMP, supplementing the OMP with premix and straight premixing, maybe something about boost and premix.

I mix 1 once per gallon in addition to the stock OMP still being functional.
Some people who run high boost mix twice that or more.

Maybe someone who knows more about this can help me out.

 

REMEMBER THE 2 STOKE OIL MUST BE TCW-3!!!!!!!!

 

I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't..... Any outboard marine oil or snowmobile oil will be TCW-3... I suppose only lawnmower grade stuff you'd get at safeway could be poor quality... maybe dollar store 2-cycle.

 

iv seen some gas stations stack non tcw3 rated oils....... just a reference

 

> My car is an 10th AE. However I was planning to have that motor pulled out and swapped with an S5 Motor and running an Power FC. So, I shouldn't really worry about the Oil Metering Situation? Since I plan on keeping it Premix. However my friend is interested in taking my old motor and swapping it into his 510 or his 86 Corolla. SO I'm trying to get as much info to him as possible, mainly cause He's not on this forum... he's on the Club4AG forums.

> Anyways I'd like to say many thanks for all the feedback gents/and or ladies. My *** is working 18 hour days out here 6/7 days a week and I'm always too swamped to look for info. Also cause the connection here in Iraq suck. So, again many thanks.

 

yea if you get a standalone ECU, then you can remove the OMP on an s5 no problem as long as you premix.

 

How high is out combustion temps?

Reason I ask is because TCW-3 ashless oil is meant for engines that keep the temps below 300*F.

Low Ash, which I believe is also TCW-3 is for temps in the range of 400*F. The "ash" gets swept away if the temps are around the operating temp of the oil.

This info I got from here
http://sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm

I don' t know if those temps are "flash points" or not. I know motor oil has a very high flash point so it may stay on the Apex seals longer then 2 stroke oils.