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Old 10-24-02, 09:12 PM
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Power help?

WELlllllllllllllll ....at the moment my rx7 is hibernating comfortably.... lol but anyways...... i was wondering a bunch of things... maybe someone out there can help me?
1. with the installation of a carb into a 13b (1990). what is lost ... forom what ive heard .. the electronics in the engine will be gone.. any specifics as to what all will be replaced?
2. what kind of gains will a carb (50mm weber sidedraft)in a 13b 6 port give?
3. Ive read in some forums about electric air pumps.... how hard is it to do something of that sort ? and price??
annnndddddd...............
well so far all ive done for power is a full racing beat headers..presilencer... catback...
4. anybody have any tips to add power??
annndddd last but not least....
5. anybody know of a good dyno on the west coast.... preferably in alberta... close to edmonton?? hahah

well all thx for reading and plz post if you can help.... kind of silly questions, but just for my personal knowledge. thx
Old 10-24-02, 09:20 PM
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I would switch to a carb just yet... You ahve plenty more to do, such as porting, intake porting, TB mod, CDI box, clutch, nitrous oxide, supercharger.

First you need to give us a budget.
Old 10-24-02, 10:05 PM
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hmmmm ok well im sticking all motor. no turbo.. no sc .. and definately no nitrous...... sorry forgot to put some important info down....... budget..... is up to 6000 cdn if i dont want to go to the u.s. next summer hahah but reasonably id dsay around 2-3k.
Old 10-25-02, 12:34 AM
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Originally posted by CANRX7GX
hmmmm ok well im sticking all motor. no turbo.. no sc .. and definately no nitrous...... sorry forgot to put some important info down....... budget..... is up to 6000 cdn if i dont want to go to the u.s. next summer hahah but reasonably id dsay around 2-3k.
And what is wrong with nitrous oxide? Or a turbo? Or a supercharger? You're willing to switch to a carb but not to a boosted motor? Is this a class car?

Anyway.... You can start by a tune-up. Fuel filter, oil change, plugs, stock wires, etc etc.

Next, I would add an intake air filter. Just a K&N will do, cheaper and just as efficient.

Next you might wanna look at intake porting and doing the TB mod. The stick at the top has info on intake manifold porting, and RETed's page has info on the TB mod. Clean the fuel injectors while they are out, and add some pineapple racing sleeves.

If you are an S4 car, you auxilary ports are no longer functional. You can convert to a fully electronic operation by using an electronic air pump (such as one from a corvette) operated by an RPM switch, such as one made by MSD.

You can next concentrate on spark. Addition of a CDI box such as an MSD 6A or Crane Hi-6 will added a lot of smoothness and a tad of top-end power to the car.

By now you clutch is slipping. Throw in an ACT, pilot bearing, T/O bearing, and probably some new hydraulics while you are at it. Also might wanna consider a lightweight flywheel.

Remove all of your emissions. With your listed exhaust, you'll never pass emissions, so ditch the air pump, ACV, EGR, and all related solenoids. Ditch the P/S, and the A/C (you live in alberta).

Book some dyno time and get yourself a tunign device, such as the Apex'i S-AFC.

After that... serious engine parts. Looking at a rebuild with porting, S5 rotors, and a fear other goodies.


And that's just the motor... we still haven't touched the rear-end, tires, rims, suspension, brakes... but the above should fit your budget.

BTW, this is all available more in depth throught the search function at the top right of the forums... but some subjects (electronic auxilary ports, for eg) are a little sketchy. If you need a better list, price breakdown, and full how-to's, post here or PM me, and I will ne happy to oblige. This was just a quick rundown to give you an idea of what you are all getting yourself into.

The above will get you... mid to low 14's, and maybe 180 on the dyno.

Unless, of course, we're allowed to go bridgeport or better....

Confused? Well, maybe you should be. How about you give me some more information about what you are willing to sacrifice (engine life, street drivability, etc), your goals for the car (is this street driven? emissions complaint? race car?), and your horsepower goals.

Sorry I can't help you with an alberta dyno... try the Canadian forum.
Old 10-25-02, 05:33 PM
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ok scathcart ..... to clear some things up...i dont want to compete in forced induction class. not enuff money i would like to stay in the n/a class .. mostly for the pride i guess .. and for competing. i have an s5.... ive done my research into porting, and having a pretty reliable 6 port street car..... street ported...is utterly useless on my application... proven by racing beat. i dont want to go bridge port, because of the driveability. i know carb will drop driveability, but if tuned right not by much.

upgrades i have so far...... apexi intake.. full racing beat exhaust... .... a/c and power steering are already out.... i have dual belt under drive pulleys main and alternator( not installed yet), waiting on my application spark plugs... as recommended by racing beat to come in... i have 8.5mm jacobs wires from rx7.com(not installed) and i now have a stock aluminum hood. looks will be the last thing on my list.
im looking for a quick... street dragable car .. that will be used also for autocrosses... a full all around car that doesnt have to be the best.
i wold like a rundown on the msd ignition boxes... installing.. and whatever info you can give me on it. from what ive "heard" they arent very reliable.. bu tthats what i heard. also on the electric air pump... that would be great thx.
also .. well ill admit i dont know alot when it comes to 7's cause i really wanted a 240sx be4 i got this car and learned everything about it .. then i got a 7 hahah anyways.... acv/ egr? im not sure what that stands for... sorry..... and just another question what IS the air pump used for anyways?? just for heating in the car kinda deal?? or... and could you give me a run down on the removal of all this??
ive also looked into rebuilds.... another s5 n/a ... and am considering it next year. my current engine has 180000kms on it.
if u want to email me instead of posting here my email is ewind8@hotmail.com .
thax for ur help
Old 10-25-02, 07:11 PM
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Originally posted by CANRX7GX
ok scathcart ..... to clear some things up...i dont want to compete in forced induction class. not enuff money i would like to stay in the n/a class .. mostly for the pride i guess .. and for competing. i have an s5.... ive done my research into porting, and having a pretty reliable 6 port street car..... street ported...is utterly useless on my application... proven by racing beat. i dont want to go bridge port, because of the driveability. i know carb will drop driveability, but if tuned right not by much.

upgrades i have so far...... apexi intake.. full racing beat exhaust... .... a/c and power steering are already out.... i have dual belt under drive pulleys main and alternator( not installed yet), waiting on my application spark plugs... as recommended by racing beat to come in... i have 8.5mm jacobs wires from rx7.com(not installed) and i now have a stock aluminum hood. looks will be the last thing on my list.
im looking for a quick... street dragable car .. that will be used also for autocrosses... a full all around car that doesnt have to be the best.
i wold like a rundown on the msd ignition boxes... installing.. and whatever info you can give me on it. from what ive "heard" they arent very reliable.. bu tthats what i heard. also on the electric air pump... that would be great thx.
also .. well ill admit i dont know alot when it comes to 7's cause i really wanted a 240sx be4 i got this car and learned everything about it .. then i got a 7 hahah anyways.... acv/ egr? im not sure what that stands for... sorry..... and just another question what IS the air pump used for anyways?? just for heating in the car kinda deal?? or... and could you give me a run down on the removal of all this??
ive also looked into rebuilds.... another s5 n/a ... and am considering it next year. my current engine has 180000kms on it.
if u want to email me instead of posting here my email is ewind8@hotmail.com .
thax for ur help
Alrighty... an all around car. You're looking at a mid-14 second car drag car, just so you know.

CDI box: MSD's are fairly relaiable, but there will always be a story about how ones breaks. The stock ignition is fantastic, but also breaks from time to time. The Crane HI-6 is a little bit of a better quality, as well as being digital. I have heard of no problems with this unit, but there will always be a couple. I have found CDI units very reliable.
Installation includes of a CDI unit requitres bolting down the unit at the four corners, and a couple wire splices into your leading coil. Here's the gist of the wiring:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/CDI/cdi.html
What this does is sends multiple, amplified spark signals during e-shaft rotation for a more complete combustion. High end power, smoother running engine, and about 50 kms extra/tank in fuel economy. (pays for itself in a year!)

Clutch/lightweight flywheel: flywheel lets engine rev faster, but lowers ability to launch well, and street drivability (but is easily lived with.) Clutch... don;t need to explain... stops slipping at high rpms.

On your car, your air pump fucntions for two things: one, it supplies air to the catalytic convertors to aid combustion in the exhaust to lower emissions (but you don't have cats, so this doesn't apply), and two: it provides a pressure sourse to open the auxilary ports and the VDI. It works in conjuction with the ACV and a couple solenoids to do this, and removal of it will result in a loss of power unless you a) wire the ports open (which lowers bottom end power) or b) find an alternate route to opening them, such as an electronic system.
The electronic system uses an RPM activated switch to provide power to a certain item, be it an electric air pump, or a solenoid. With the air pump and ACV removed, you can use an RPM switch and a corvette electric air pump, as well as a couple of stock solenoids to activate your auxilary ports and VDI. The benefits of this is you can fine tune when your systems are acitvated, and you lose the minor parasytic power loser associated with running a belt driven accessory.

ACV stands for Air Control Valve: it controls where the air pump output is directed. EGR is exhaust gas recirculation valve, but is inapplicable, since you have an S5 and they don't have them.

engine options?
fuel control?
suspension?
Old 10-25-02, 07:43 PM
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hmmm ok first... rpm switch ... could u educate me on this??? do i need to make one myself?? and for the corvette electric air pump... are there only certain year models that can be used?? and installation... is that difficult??
also what couple of stock selenoids have to be used in order to oopen ports 5and 6 i believe they are...
what can i remove that will not be used?

clutch and flywheel ive been researching into also... and are going to be upgraded...

enigne options?? what did u mean by that?
fuel control... apexi has a fuel controller right? the s-afc like u said? of does the fc stand for something different? hahaha or the power fc if they offfer for my application car...
suspension .... ive been looking into already... do u know of any performance suspensions lighter then stock?? supposedly the apexi n1 suspensions are lighter then stock... ive heard... but im not sure it comes for my car... or tokico/racingbeat combo. what do u suggest...

all the stuff i learn or research into .. i wish could be bought now, but gotta work slow hahah
thx again
Old 10-25-02, 08:40 PM
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Originally posted by CANRX7GX
hmmm ok first... rpm switch ... could u educate me on this???
It is an electronic unit offered by a couple manufacturers that trigger's a 12V signal (to be sent to a relay to operate an accessory) at a certain rpm.
IE: at 3800 rpm, the RPM switch sends power to a relay, which turns on the electric air pump.
Some CDI boxes already have them included, such as the MSD model I am using.
MSD makes one version, here's a link:
http://www.msdignition.com/
click on products, then "rpm activated accessories". Switch is the third one down.

do i need to make one myself??
nope

and for the corvette electric air pump... are there only certain year models that can be used??
probably... I'm a turbo guy myself, so I have no need to open auxilary ports. Talk to a chev dealer.

and installation... is that difficult??
hook up a hose, wire accordingly, and mount. Not hard by any means.

also what couple of stock selenoids have to be used in order to oopen ports 5and 6 i believe they are...
what can i remove that will not be used?

If you are converting to electronic auxilary and VDI, any solenoid wired in place will work. I'd have to look up unused solenoids...

enigne options?? what did u mean by that?
porting, lighter weight rotors, oil pressure regulator, it's a long list.

fuel control... apexi has a fuel controller right? the s-afc like u said? of does the fc stand for something different? hahaha or the power fc if they offfer for my application car...
Power FC will not work in your car.
Apex'i makes a great fuel controller called the S-AFC, as you know, which stands for super air fuel controller.
It allows adjustment of injector pulsewidths to tune fuel injector delivery while keeping the stock ECU. It requires dyno tuning to work effectively.

suspension .... ive been looking into already... do u know of any performance suspensions lighter then stock?? supposedly the apexi n1 suspensions are lighter then stock... ive heard... but im not sure it comes for my car... or tokico/racingbeat combo. what do u suggest...
Adjustable coil overs.... TEIN or JIC Magic seem are my preferred brands... but many other systems are also available and work well. Expect $2000 for a system like this, then add sway bars, some polyurethane bushings, and some strut tower bars.
Adjustable coil-overs allow ride height to be changed without changing springs, and allow 16 or more levels of strut damping tuning.

all the stuff i learn or research into .. i wish could be bought now, but gotta work slow hahah
thx again
Sorry all of these explanations are so rushed, but you are asking a lot of questions very quickly. how about we talk through email? shutup_billy@hotmail.com
Old 10-25-02, 09:05 PM
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"Utterly useless" but perhaps picking up noticable power, significant it the car is to remain NA. Hmm.

I'd urge you to stick with efi...Maybe nothing resembling stock, but either way.

R

Originally posted by CANRX7GX
ive done my research into porting, and having a pretty reliable 6 port street car..... street ported...is utterly useless on my application... proven by racing beat. i dont want to go bridge port, because of the driveability. i know carb will drop driveability, but if tuned right not by much.
Old 10-25-02, 09:25 PM
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faster 7 ... ive read from racing beat info... that street porting a 6 port n/a engine results in proven 1-2 hp....doesnt sound too signifigant to me :\ they say its a waste of money and time to attempt it.. the most signifigant would be bridge porting, but im not going that extreme. thats all i trust what they say, cause ... well ... they tune rx7s lol thx for ur input tho
Old 10-25-02, 09:48 PM
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faster 7 ... ive read from racing beat info... that street porting a 6 port n/a engine results in proven 1-2 hp....doesnt sound too signifigant to me :\ they say its a waste of money and time to attempt it.. the most signifigant would be bridge porting, but im not going that extreme. thats all i trust what they say, cause ... well ... they tune rx7s lol thx for ur input tho
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