KrazyRX-7

Hey guys, I have been looking into the whole Taurus alt swap, as my stock on is on its way out the door.Less than 12 volts at idle with head lights on but during the day time its fine....grrr!

Anyway. to the point. In the past I have been a classic muscle kinda guy, and we do alt swaps all the time, so we can add some modern creature comforts to our classic muslce(raidos, subs, amps, power windowns, ect.) one thing that I and many other have used in the past are Tractor Generator Conversion brackets. not sure about this specific vendor/bracket, but you can get these almost anywhere, and for about $50 bucks or less.
http://store.alternatorparts.com/cs1...-brackets.aspx

If you will look at the mounting bracket on the top of the page, it looks like it comes with a little rubber bushing, just like the one used to mount the stock(s4) alt. I want to call these guys in the site in linked and get some more info on what the part is made out of, how thick and what kind of hardware. Please feel free to rip this idea into oblivion. Thanks

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

That looks like a great idea-if there is one that fits.

Maybe the A200 Universal bracket would work. It seems to be totally adjustable.

Great find-now do it and document for the rest of us!

Good Luck!

KrazyRX-7

The a200 bracket was the one i had my eye on, ill check with the vendor for specs, and as soon as I can find a stupid taurus SHO in the junk yard ill get on it stupid sho's.....

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Hey KrazyRX-7, a 130 Amp Alt can be pulled from ANY 3.0 or 3.8L Taurus/Sable/Continental up to 1995, and they're all wired the same. You can also find them in the Windstar minivan too. Also, you don't need any special adjuster brackets, just flip the adjuster around backwards and shim to fit with 4 washers. That'll put the pulley approximately where it should be. As for the solid end, a couple pieces of 1/4" flat iron with two 1/2" holes in it spaced 1" center to center does the trick VERY well.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

You don't need a SHO alternator.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...130+amp+taurus

Piece of cake-no offense, Aaron

Pele

iTrader: (28)

^ This swap need any grinding?

Here's my problem with grinding the ears of the alternator:

1.) If I need another one, the parts store usually doesn't like big grind marks on the core.
2.) If I'm on a road trip and the alternator craps out... In the event I can convince the parts store to take my core, the new alternator will not be ground down... I don't usually keep an angle grinder in my tool box.

Off the shelf is the way to go.

KrazyRX-7

do I or do I not need an adpter/bracket to be fabed up? every single post about it mentions the need to make a bracket.and this bracket has involved welding each time. Dont wanna f*** with that. I HATE welding with ceap gear, and have accsess to no welding gear at all. so im kinda stuck about getting this alt in the car.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

The way I did mine required only a drill and hacksaw. Two identical pieces of flat iron each with two holes that line up with each other. The reuse the original alternator spacer and five washers on the original mount to make it line up properly. No modding the alternator needed

tuscanidream

iTrader: (6)

Why not get a stock one rebuilt?

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Because the stock one is 80 amps...

KrazyRX-7

not only is it only 70 amps. but i plan on adding some stuff to my car, fog lights, a working radio, maby power locks and window's, I could also have a local shop respin it to make some more power, but then it will take a hit on the power it makes at idle, the taurus alt seems to be the most cost effective alt solution and now i get the idea of your bracket being made with no welding. how is it on the high rpm's? that is what worries me. thanks for input.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

No, every single post does not, and that is why I provided the link. Mine was pretty much the 'original' Taurus alternator conversion, AFAIK, and I made my bracket with a hacksaw, a drill and a vice. No modding, grinding, etc of the alternator body. If my Taurus alt fails, I get another salvage unit for $20. Or a new/rebuilt one at any parts store in America.

Diff between what Akagis_white_comet did and my set-up is that my bracket lends some torsional stability to the set-up, thus helping keep my pulleys aligned. After 2 plus years, I have no pulley wear or belt wear to indicate that the pulley alignment is off in the least.

Maybe it makes no difference. He did his and it works, I did mine and it works.

All that said, the bracket you linked to looks good. Try it and let us know. I get a couple of PM's per month asking me to make them a bracket.

KrazyRX-7

Ok, I thought about it all day, and it would be easy to make a bracket with no welding or anything like that, and yea, most people dont want to alter the car or the alt to get it on(minus the wiring) so a bracket that some one can buy would rock didnt make it to the wrecker today maby next weekend? also, just to make sure, the dubble belt pullys from say mazdatrix do not need to be drilled out to fit the taurus alt? just want to make sure befor i oder one. Thank you for your original write-up jackchild, if it wasnt for your exp. with the taurus alt, I probly wouldnt even consider it

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Their FD Alt for FC car pulley will work just fine, that's what I have on my car. Just hit it with the impact wrench to get the nut off and it'll go right on the Taurus alt. You'll need to press down on it BY HAND to get it to seat, but it will.

Nothing against Jackchild, but I prefer the brackets I made because there's no welding needed and its lack of torsional support makes it easier to get the belt on because if you loosen the bolts, the pulley will sag downwards. If I were going to do it again, I'd probably put a brace between the two brackets as Jackchild did. Maybe I'll do that if the current setup ever bents

I used 1/4" flat iron from Tractor Supply Company (www.tractorsupply.com) for mine. Used the same stuff for my 20b engine mounts. Lynn Hanover on RCC, who welded them together for me, said they'd be scraping me off the pavement before the mounts bend and that's WITHOUT a strengthening rib to square everything up. He's a race engineer and builds cars usually around super high revving 12a engines. Right now, his tube-chassis FD has a 12a in it putting out 325hp at 11,000rpm

I insisted on putting a torsional brace in anyway just to be absolutely sure, better to have more strength than needed than not enough. It'll have to break at least six welds AND crush the torsional rib in the middle before they can bend now. Call me crazy, but I don't think it'll EVER happen. 1/4" flat iron is incredibly strong for how cheap you can get it ($13 for 4 feet of 2" wide)

Okay, back to the alternator. To get the belt on, just loosen both mount side bolts and the adjuster top bolt and get the belt positioned in the front groove on the passenger side, then turn the whole engine over using the P/S pulley (17mm). To get it in the rear groove where it needs to be, push the belt backwards on the passenger side below the alt and turn the engine over a bit more. Works just like a 10-speed bike.

Reusing the old belt that had been in the middle of the adjuster with a FD alt on the car, the Taurus alt is now at the bottom of the adjuster strap.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Total lack of reading comprehension. There was no welding involved in my set-up. There was no need to weld.

And name calling is against forum rules, A_g_c. Please get it right or I might just complain. Or maybe I should assume that this name calling is just further lack of reading comprehension?

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

Im doing the alt swap anyways, so i will be the guinea pig. Ordering the A200 bracket now, will post pics as soon as it gets here!

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

why not find an alternator rebuilder and have them modify it to put out more voltage?

KrazyRX-7

In my exp I wouldn't recomend rebuilding an alt to make more power, unless its a track car. Most of the cars I have worked with have problems keeping voltage in stop and go driving or at night when the lights/ac's and stuff are going the head lights will dim when stoped or at idle. trying to avoid this alltogeather. Looking to get 140 amps, and no lack of power at idle, but this is just my exp. other's have great luck with respun alts you beat me to it, was going to mess with ordering and getting the alt this weekend, but ill let you try it. I really hope this is a working bracket!

KrazyRX-7

Also Jackhild, I am sorry for the typo in your name. brain fart! Don't hate me!

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

i spent the day trying to cut the bracket pieces down to size, but the pieces are just too big. im pretty pissed but it was worth a try. anyone have measurements so i can weld one?

KrazyRX-7

That is such a shame, it looks like its only off bit just an inch or so, Im sorry it didnt work out.

GOT-RTRY

iTrader: (2)

it was worth a shot, so no biggie. as you can see in the photo, the black bracket has actually been moved all the way to the right. so its actually way more than an inch off let me know what you do for your bracket

Jross427

iTrader: (13)

What if you flip the adjuster bracket around? So it goes over the cas?