here is what i gathered so far:
S4 TII rebuilt large streetport by rotaryresurrection
microtech or haltech havent decided yet
720 (??) and 1680's
rx7.com competition fuel pump
FPR with parralel mod
new aftermarket clutch (not sure which brand to get yet?)
turblown exhaust manifold with wastegate (not sure what size to go with yet?)
rad. (not sure which one to get?)
the GT3574 turbo
3 inch IC piping
piping will be ran like this with a V-mount up front (so the end takes have the ends face upwards)
oil temp or water temp guage (both or which one?)
wideband guage
boost guage
and tuned by KDRrotary this summer.
so if im missing somthing in my list please add or if i had questions please help answer. i am going to start buying these parts within the next few weeks.

 

-motor... make sure you do the internals right.... s5/s6 hardened stat gears, or rx8 gears ( i went w/ rx8 stat gears), fd corner seal springs, thermal pellet, all new seals ans springs, baffle plate

standalone... i have the microtec lt10s, and my engine builder wished i went w/ a haltec due to having a few extra options.. the microtec works great, but if i do it again, ill go haltech

injectors.... since your pushing for 450+, you'd better step it up to at least 850cc, i went w/ 1000cc primaries, that way i have room to grow....

fuel pump.... id go w/ a bosch 044, or go even bigger and do the aeromotive a1000.. but the aero one will be alot more work to install

frp... this is good... i have mine in a parralell setup as well w/ a aeromotive adjustable fpr

clutch.. there are a few choices in thic category, i have the "ebay" xtd stage 3 w/ has worked great for me and only cost $150... the centerforce dual friction is a good one, of go ***** crazy and get a twin-disc

mani and wastegate.... as long as its a 40mm+ wastegate, i think youll be fine... my engine builder was just barely starting to get boost creep w/ his 40mm hks when he was pushing 450+.. i went w/ a 50mm just to be safe

radiator.... koyo... inexpensive, and a proven good radiator

turbo... im bad in this category

piping.... 3" is a good choice

guages.... run both... but also get an oil pressure guage due to the factory one being a joke! just to be safe, id also get an egt guage as well

well, seems like you have most things in order... here are a few things missing though

-Blow off valve
-water/methenal injection (id really recommend getting thing)
-colder spark plugs

 

paging J-rat...

oh and you're not foolish enough to attempt this on pump gas are you? You will need methanol and/or race gas

 

For the standalone, you need to talk with the person who will be tuning your motor. Get what they are comfortable with and recommend.
For gauges, I would get a water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauge. You can get an oil filler pedestal adapter for reasonably priced if you want to keep the stock gauges working. I highly recommned getting all electronic gauges (except maybe boost) since I don't like the idea of having hot engine fluids in the cabin, plus they are just easier to install. Also, an EGT (or dual EGT) gauge would be a good idea. It can alert you to problems before they get too serious.

 

Dont use the 720cc for primary injectors, they will not give enough fuel to the engine. An excellent combination up to 500 hp is 850cc primary injectors and 1,600 secondary injectors.

About the Haltech or Microtech, here in PR we use both with excellent results. Another ECU's to choose are the Sakura and the Electromotive.

I know a person who have a 87 Turbo 2 street legal car, with street port, hybrid Turbo 2 turbocharger at 22 psi, Walbro 255 fuel pump, 3" single steel exhaust muffler piping, Microtech, 2 1/2" intercooler piping and 750 and 1,100 cc injectors running 11.42 sec. at the 1/4 mile drag strip and the engine have only 345hp. He can not make more power because the injectors not are enough to supply the fuel requeriments.

 

i had this on my plans and totally forgot to add this to!
i knew i was forgeting a couple things:
BOV, i have a REAl type S in hand
HKS 3 inch catback exhaust
is the race gas necessary if i run the water/ meth injec.?


and thanks vipers for the parts list!
i will look into this!

 

and the koyo will be good enough to cool along with a decent E-fan?

 

your car wont need race gas if your using the meth. injection.... alot of rotary heads are using pump gas @ 20psi safetly w/ the meth. injection....

and i run the koyo w/ a flex-a-lite black magic fan... no problems at all..... and they even came out w/ a bigger/better one called the black magic extreme! if i were you, id get the new one.... its not much more expensive, and will only cool your car better

 

yep, Methanol is good ****, i love seeing my intake temps drop rather than rise with boost.

 

Isn't a full "GT35R" a "GT3582R"?
Is so, your turbo is too small.


-Ted

 

Ted beat me to the turbo to small part. Also 35r's are gehy IMO go with a 40R should make it if you want a ball bearing. Or even a custom Garret is in order if you would like. 3in DP would be my minimum size to run I would like to put a 3.25 under there and catback differ upon your exhaust setup and route. Go with a E8 or E11 or the high end AEM's.

May I also suggest the high stress of going with OEM seals and a full system rebuild. Oh yea new housings would be nice hint.

I would refrain from 1680's I prefer going as small as possible and if applicable adding more injectors to help in fuel delivery instead of hosing blobs into the system.

3in ICP would be fine.

Add an EGT

Fuel system is an argument on this board. I would suggest an aftermarket PD and AR FPR with a hard lined fuel system 8an with 10an filter and 6an return.

If you have any questions on sourcing these parts or like some places just ask on PM and I can get it in order for you perhaps bettor price if possible help you out some.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=583809

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/gt3574-kit-599973/

This turbo should meet his goals.

A GT35R may have slightly better response since it is a BB turbo. The A-spec 500R will also easily reach and surpass them as well.

 

Man, I don't get it...
The Garrett nomenclature for their GT series is...
"GT"...(turbine size)...(compressor size)
I thought the "GT3574" was a GT35 turbine mated to a 74mm compressor wheel.
The links shows it's not.
It's basically a non-BB GT35R.
So you get the same power potential, but you don't get the advantages (headaches?) of the BB center.

Even so, a GT35R doesn't hit 450 at the wheels (or are we talking about flywheel BHP?) unless we talking way over pump gas capacities?

I know someone else mentioned water / C-OH injection, but I don't think the OP mentioned that?


-Ted

 

At this point, I will tell you that the E6k is the WAY TO GO...

Thats what I use...

I am using an ACT full face organic with the extreme plate

GO TiAL!!! You will NOT REGRET IT!!!

 

Yea, cause the E8 tends to just drop offline when it feels like it, and an E11 is just an E8 with more outputs.. **** THAT... E6K!

Any capable EMS will be able to handle those 1680s JUST fine....

Damn.. Guess my parallel FPR mod with 3/8s hose doesnt qualify for the over 400 club...

 

Good way to blow an engine. With a standalone at those power levels there is no excuse not to save money by buying the 1680CC Ford injectors now. Instead of getting smaller injectors, finding out you don't have enough fuel (hopefully before 100% duty cycle and a blown engine) and having to purchase larger injectors you might as well go with the big ones from the start. Anyone with experience tuning will not have an issue with hosing fuel into the engine. With most standalones you can idle the car on 1680CC injectors as primaries without an issue so secondaries are not a concern at all. Especially with the Microtech as it does injector staging very well.

 

Hes referring to multiple small injectors, not just 4 injectors. I do agree to always give yourself a lot more headroom. I remember back in the day when people told me the stock 550cc injectors with a walbro and the rest of the fuel system up to par was more than enough for a stock s4 turbo @ 10psi. I almost blew my engine not watching injector duty cycle on the K.
Anyhow back on topic. Multiple small injectors is the way to go, however thats way to advanced for someone doing their first single turbo. I would ask your tuner what he prefers...

 

well, these guys are the people that will be tuning the motor.
http://kdrotary.com/dyno.html
he told me he LOVES Microtech. he still has the know how of the haltech but states this
" Haltech E6K
Haltech E11 "
thats the one i linked to when i started this thread lol


the motor i have is a S4 TII that isnt blown but is def. gonna get rebuilt.
what do you mean by a full system rebuild?
if the housings arent up to the task then yes, new ones will be used.

 

great thanks! ill look into it!
so you just ran regular fuel lines (3/8 of course)?
is my feed and return lines form the tank gonna be fine (big enough)?

 

what about ignition?

 

stock ignition is good for what he wants, though I think you might need some good boost to break past 450hp+

 

hey ^^slammedblk7(totally off subject) what size and offset are those FNO1R-Cs?

 

Run an E8 or similar with Ls1 coils.

 

I'm with the e6k.

 

17x10 +12