Dave runs a batched on a K and personally prefers it. So that’s not your concern now is it?

NA's usually run batched and staged is a form of batched.

 

i will need to find a used e6K right? they dont make them anymore???
and no matter how this gets turned into a bridge versus street....im going with a street port


and i dont need to control the OMP....S4

 

everyone I've ever talked to said street on a turbo application is the way to go however the one guy that really likes half bridges (brian with bdc) I trust and think does a great job at what he does. It's all about preferance.

 

We're going to start splitting hairs here, so bear with me...

Batch injection means firing all injectors at once. It's the "older" style of injection but continues to work well and most aftermarket ECUs still support it. Some, like the Megasquirt, have no other choice.

Sequential injection means to fire the injectors with specific timing to try and catch the engine during the intake stroke, or to set up a fuel cloud in the port for when the next intake stroke occurs.

Staged of course means that there is a secondary (or tertiary, or forth-iary ) that are brought online when load dictates. Staged can of course be applied to either batch fired or sequential injection.

As for the Haltechs, any time I have dealt with an E8 I have had massive triggering issues. If you are going to run a Haltech, stick with the E6 or E10 series. The Microtech LT8s/LT10 is also a great choice but it's not quite as flexible as the Haltechs are.

You don't need a bridgeport anyway for just 450HP...For your application, you might want to consider the Microtech's. As I mentioned they are not as versatile as the Haltechs but they are a very straightforward ECU, I've never had a problem with any of them that I have installed, and the harness is a lot smaller then the Haltech. For your application it seems like a decent choice. Especially since you can get used to tuning in Normal mode then switch to Matrix mode when you get the experience.

 

great info. Aaron. my needs for the standalone consist of running the car for my break in period (1000 miles) then driving it to the tuner (3.5 hours away). you may be right in my situation since i think you can set a rev. limiter with then and keep the car safely outa big boost numbers for the sake of the motor. then after that i will take it to the tuner and have him tune it and leave it alone.
is it possible if i get that (haltech or microtech) i could get the map from someone on here that would be safe enough for me to run the car safely untill the break in period is over?
ill admit, if have little to no EXP. on a standalone but given a sit down and tutorial of the MAP's i could get the hang of it until i can get it to someone that will tune it right.

i am currently working on a deal with a e6K right now so im not sure what ill do.

 

Right now the Microtechs don't have the ability to save maps to disk, so you won't really find any "base" maps. I'm currently wiring a program to allow this since I am always tweaking my map and would prefer to be able to save them as I go.

For the Haltechs, there are a million base maps hanging around. You'll find some decent base maps in the Haltech section of this forum. I've used them several times and they're surprisingly good for drivability and as a base tune. But if course you will want to modify the map to suite your engine and keep out of boost until you are sure the base map is safe. The Haltech software lets you work offline with a map on disk, so you can download the software and map now and then play around with it to get the hang of using the software.

 

well, the deal fell through on the e6K....i might try to find another but dunno....well see....
i really cant start buying things untill after the holidays....it seems to be taking all my cash right now.

i did try using the haltech software a few weeks ago to get the feel of it.....still a little confusing for me but i didnt put enough time into it....i will get more into detail on it later on....
right now im currently working with 1Revvin7 form turblown and i might go with a To4E57 for more streetable purposes. id like this car to be as much of a DD as possible so i can just hop in it and go.

 

Thx for the post Aaron. Informative for the group.

88rxn/a - You might want to get into contact in a private discussion and talk to Jrat about this. He is making the power you want and setup at a decent price without going overboard. I think this suits your needs well so why not converse with someone doing it personally and involved in the tune.

As far as the EMS's. Well both Aaron and Jrat say they have had some sort of interface issues with them. I can not post on this because I am not a tuner I only sell them and install them. I felt from my experience the win32 interface would be easier and more suitable for you to learn on and use.

 

thanks iceblue. you to have been a great help! i might just do that.

 

I am more then willing to chat on the phone if anyone wants information.

 

thats pretty damn cool of you. I never really know if your cool with divulging information or not. I may call you one of these days if it's cool.

 

Me too, I mostly on which standalone to use for my needs. (except I am not looking for 450hp, maybe 350ish!!)

THis thread has been very helpful

 

great! when i get a free moment (later on down the road when i have the cash to start spending next month or so) ill PM you J-rat.
and yes, i have learned alot form this thread also.

 

another question:
what spark plugs to run?

L:
T:
???

 

Start with 9s all the way around.

 

Technically, the E6K can only fire a 13B in "staged / batch".
Both primaries and secondaries are fired at the same time - thus batched in operation.
"Staged" just means there are two stages in which the second stage (i.e. secondaries) are fired load-dependent (specific to the E6K).
So the E6K is both "staged" and "batch" fired.


"E10 series"?
You talking about the E11 (V2)?
The E8 is just a scaled down E11.
The internals are basically identical, so I find it odd you make this statement?

I dunno what you call "massive", but I think the E6X had more headaches getting a consistent trigger from the 13B CAS.
I run an E8, and the only problems I've had is during cranking.
Every once in a while, the engine will misfire during cranking.
This could just be an adjustment to the ignition trigger parameters - gain and filter? - but I haven't had the time to mess with it yet.
Outside of the starting problem, the engine fires consistently and problem-free.
The E11 / E8 is a newer revision of the reluctor in the E6X.
The E6X internal reluctors just plain sucked trying to trigger from an FC / FD CAS, period.


-Ted

 

I never had triggering issues with the E8/E11, but it does have a nasty habit of dropping off line during low voltage situations and causing some headaches.

 

Which I think is what I said.

Sorry, thinking of the Microtech LT10 and posting about Haltechs. Yes, E11.

Strangely, I've never had an issue with the E6X.

It's entirely likely that my problems were actually created by someone else. I did not do the wiring on those cars and who knows that the original owner did when he wired it up. But I get pretty polarised by problems with standalones and will generally avoid them in the future if I have had a bad experience. For example, I've seen some HORRENDOUS wiring in Microtech installs yet these cars run without an issue. Not saying that one is better then the other, just my experience in the matter.

 

well, i found a used E6K on the forum, i paid last nite and hes sending it 2 or 3 day air....ill post pics when i get it....
it was for an FD so i need to change a few things i think, IIRC the TPS and coils?

BTW:
should i install this E6K BEFORE i start ripping this car down and run a stock MAP so that i can make sure i do it correct?(NOT DRIVING IT, JUST GET IT TO RUN)
wouldnt that be easier than ripping the car down, having motor rebuilt and taking out things in the bay i dont need and then trying to intsall the e6k?
i guess it would be a preventive headache down the road?
or should i wait to install it?

 

The Haltech is not for any specific car. You setup the Haltech to work with your system.

You can use the stock FC coils with the trailing toggle, and you can use the stock TPS as well. Or you can swap on any coil combination you want and move to a full range TPS.

You won't be using the stock MAP sensor with the Haltech. You will use the Haltech MAP sensor.

I find it a lot easier to remove the unneeded wiring while the engine is out of the car, and then wire the standalone once the engine is reinstalled.

 

If I had a choice, I would run either a wideband TPS or none at all.

Actually, its a GM sensor, but thats neither here nor there...

 

sorry, i ment a MAP for the haltech in a stock car(RX7).
id rather not use my stock TPS sensor because of the issues i always have with such and old sensor....i would rather switch to a NEW one ar at least newER...
only prob. is ill have to make a bracket correct( for a different TPS)?

 

Yeah, its easy. I can get you pictures of some of the ones we have made down here.

 

cool thanks!
should i just buy a haltech TPS sensor?

 

It comes in the box with the Haltech. Therefore, it seems logical to refer to it as the "Haltech MAP sensor". Since it's likely made by Delphi, calling it a "GM map sensor" is just as inaccurate...If you want to split hairs.

Still don't know what you mean about the MAP sensor. Or are you talking about fuel maps?

You'll need to make a bracket to mount a full range TPS on the stock throttle body. It's not really that hard. Once you get a full range TPS and hold it up to the throttle body, you will see what has to be done.