paintjob on a budget!
Originally Posted by RRTEC
I agree, I have seen way to many people get sucked into things like this.. BTW what is it about the MAZDA white? My vert chipped paint off like crazy, and the T2 my brotherinlaw has did the same thing.. Must have been a problem with the 88 white.
paypall me at snowball666@gmail.com
Originally Posted by basqueinmyFC
while i agree that a professional spray job would have much more shine, as well as more mirror look...AGAIN to everyone this is a PAINTJOB ON A BUDGET....im not talking about spending 200 dollars, im not talking about spending 5000 dollars on a real professional one...im talking about a FIFTY dollar paintjob...so your car doesnt have "sun spots" or any other color malfunction, its a way to get the whole car to look the same, with a somewhat good reflection... seriously if i were to get a show car setup, i would never do this, but since its just for my daily driver, my future auto-x car. this is perfect, and i can fiddle around enough to make it look somewhat presentable, so i dont feel like such a poor bastard driving around all these nice cars with a busted paintjob!
zak
zak
At least it will be all 1 color for about 12hours plus in labor...
Originally Posted by RRTEC
I agree, I have seen way to many people get sucked into things like this.. BTW what is it about the MAZDA white? My vert chipped paint off like crazy, and the T2 my brotherinlaw has did the same thing.. Must have been a problem with the 88 white.
Apparently at that time OE's were making the transition to all BC/CC jobs (only metallic and pearl colours were BC/CC on our cars) and during the transition period they did some final "clutching at straws" changes to the single stage paints. Many manufacturers used acrylic urethane for some colours, and acrylic enamel for others. White was a common choice to use acrylic enamel for becauase it was thought to absorb less UV beig white.....well it did.....but the problem was that the enamel just didn't hold up as well as the acrylic urethane. But keep in mind this is just a working theory based on knowledge my paint rep had working for OE's at the time.
As far as the roller jobs go - don'[t get me wrong - I understandthe whole motivation of getting he car to look half-*** for 50 bucks, Im just saying that with my knowledge, skill set and background I find it just a little too chince...plus even though people KNOW its a cheap-*** job they still seem to preach that its really good, just like a few posts ago where the guy claimed his buddies honda is shiner than OE paint.
i in no way picked this over real paint
school tuition comes first
girlfiend second
engine mods third
other missing bits fourth
so on...
paint is pretty far down on my list of things to buy with my meger pay.
it seems like it will be better than flat black im only down $30, and so far its been a fun project.
if anyone wants to really paint it with in 1000miles ill drive out
school tuition comes first
girlfiend second
engine mods third
other missing bits fourth
so on...
paint is pretty far down on my list of things to buy with my meger pay.
it seems like it will be better than flat black im only down $30, and so far its been a fun project.
if anyone wants to really paint it with in 1000miles ill drive out
Originally Posted by snowball
at my current pace labor will be about 30 hours. 

That is why I had originally posted that it was more work then it is worth. A high grade spray paint (dupli-color) will yield the same if not better results with minimal work. Two coats and a good colorsand. Will cost approx. $80-100 and you haven't wasted a week.
well im a sucker for pics so here you guys go
light covers and hood are on coat 3
fender and bumper are on 1
you can see my flat black job in the back
its damm nice for flat black if i do say so myself






light covers and hood are on coat 3
fender and bumper are on 1
you can see my flat black job in the back
its damm nice for flat black if i do say so myself







Last edited by snowball; Jun 6, 2006 at 03:17 PM.
How much flex additive did you mix in with the paint when you did the bumper and side strips??
I would think it would need to be at least 1 part to 4, just for that paint
I would think it would need to be at least 1 part to 4, just for that paint
well, i just did a bunch of touch ups filling in the hard to get spots
its going to rain 9am tomorrow so time to clear out the garage and move everything in.
its going to be a pain wet sanding tomorrow.
its going to rain 9am tomorrow so time to clear out the garage and move everything in.
its going to be a pain wet sanding tomorrow.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
It all started with a "dream"!..Good stuff Snowball!..I'm in the same Boat too.I have a Two-Tone car,and I'm just gonna do the stuff myself.Not that I can't afford a Real paint Job,I'm doin it Because It's My Car!,and it's my Daily driver.I don't expect the Car to Be perfect,but at least I know that if I have done My best,then to me it will "look Like a Million Bucks!".I've taken an Aluminum hood that Looked Like a Golf Ball(hail hit it Bad),and turned it into "glass "..all through Determination.So ,great Pics!,and Good to "see" that Pride and Perserverance(and bein a cheap Sec Gen owner..J/K) still prevails!..hope to see more pics man.
Originally Posted by RRTEC
I prefer the duplicolor rattlecan.. It should be interesting to see how it turns out...
well im going outside to wet sand my *** off for a few hours.
Originally Posted by Icemark
How much flex additive did you mix in with the paint when you did the bumper and side strips??
I would think it would need to be at least 1 part to 4, just for that paint
I would think it would need to be at least 1 part to 4, just for that paint
Originally Posted by Tovock
Honestly i think he will be fine going without flex agent, though i dont know the grade of this paint, a flex agent only helps a little will not allow your paint to flex to the idea most people have, paint is hard it will crack if bent, even with a flex agent, i only use that on interior pieces that may flex from use.
Anytime I have painted plastic parts such as bumpers or trim with an Enamel or a Laqure instead of a Urathane I use a flex agent. Enamels are just too hard when dry and too easy to crack off even a minor bump.
Originally Posted by Tovock
paint is hard it will crack if bent, even with a flex agent,
Flex agent is basically a retarding agent. It stops the paint from curing entierly and therefore retains approx. 20%(according to BASF's info) of its liquid flexibility.
Sure, if you bump your bumper against a curb or another car - the paint will crack or mark, but lexagent isn't there to stop that. Its there to allow the paint to expand and contract with the material the bumpers (or whatever) is made from, which plastic, TPO, TPP and urethane usually have a much higher rate of contraction/expansion than metal. Over time with no flex agent in the paint you will see adesion problems, i.e. peeling paint.
But its kinda moot in this thread given its about a 50 dollar paint job. But nonetheless that clears up some misconceptions about this material.
After reading this thread, I can't seem to help but notice that most of the people posting negative comments seem to forget that this is a BUDGET paint job. Personally, I've been thinking of doing it. I, in no way what-so-ever, expect it to come out as good as professional job. But... it could, given enough effort on my part, come out better than what my paint currently looks like.
But, to each his own.
But, to each his own.




