What type of 2 stroke oil is good when blocking off the omp. I know it 1 oz for 1 gallon but what brand oil to use?

 

any brand is just as good as the other.... well some is about $1.50 more expensive than other, which MUST mean it does a better job. I know Pettit racing makes a specific pre-mixing oil for our cars, but I don't know if it is actually any better since I haven't used it.... or how one would tell (BOOM! REBUILD!!)

 

Any TCW certified oil is good. Even the cheap stuff usually meets TCW.

Going synthetic, etc. is just like getting synthetic motor oil: It'll survive extreme conditions better, produce less wear and keep your internals cleaner, but it costs more and the cheap stuff still works great. People often bash on synthetics because your engine will last a very long time even on the cheap stuff. Synthetics are still good for certain situations. But if you don't want to bother looking into it, just get the cheap stuff (as long as it meets TCW) and don't worry.

Btw, I think the actual standard is "TCW-13" or something.

 

TCW-3 is what everyone reccomends.

2 stroke oils have certain flash points so you wan't a 2 stroke oil that doesn't have a real low flash point, such as 150-190 which I believe is for air cooled engines such as those in planes. You want above 220 or so.

 

We use Amsoil Sabre Professional 100:1 premix oil, but mix it at a ration of 80:1. Before that, we used Yamalube 2-stroke Racing Oil, which is available through most motorcycle shops.

 

I was thinking of going with amsoil 2 stroke but I need them to send my all the specs of it first.

 

80:1 is too much imo. A lot of people here use 1 once per gallon = 128:1...I go with 100:1 in metric system. Meaning 1ml of TCW3 for 100ml of gas. I always put in 30 litres at a time so 300ml of TCW3 and I am good to go. 80:1 would make your car smoke a lot imo....and even might reduce performance since the mix is to saturated....My opinion.

 

I run 1/2 oz per gallon with no performance or reliability issues so far.

My question is this. 2 stroke has a much lower flash point then your standard motor oil which can be around 400*F whicl 2 stroke can be lower then 250*F. I wonder if you would need more 2 stroke to do the same job as motor oil since it burns off quicker?

 

I used this stuff, and would use a smaller quart bottle to refill with the bigger bottle.




My engine died, but I'm sure it was due to the 156,000+ miles, and the frequent redlining and autocross.

 

The car is not street driven, and is a full bridgeport. The engine is built to the limits of it's potential (N/A), so we use what our engine builder recommended.

 

Even if you're metric, you can still follow the 128 parts gas to 1 part oil ratio if you'd like, too bad no one knows the optimal blend ratio for a street car.

 

i have a 90 RX7 non turbo. i want to do 2 strok but what is the easiets way to block the OMP lines? as mine are broken i want to just block them?

 

you need to find a way to prevent limp mode from happenning with your S5 ECU. If you've already taken care of that, I can't imagine a blockoff plate not being sold.

 

http://www.2751engineering.com/fc3s_..._plates_89.htm

 

how do i do that?

 

Can you drive your car without the OMP hooked up right now?

 

88 cars have no electric OMP and have NO limp mode.

 

Anything TCW-3 I normally get a 16oz bottle from Walmart for $1.57 ea

and 86-88 cars dont have an electric omp so there is no limp mode due to that.

 

I'm running 160:1 (10 gallons on fill add 8 ounces of 2 stroke). I used to run 128:1 (1 gallon to 1 ounce) but it would smoke like a mother at idle.

I'd heard that for racing N/A's Racing Beat reccomended 256:1 (1 gallon to 1/2 ounce) but I haven't confirmed that.

128:1 has worked good for me so far.

Josh

 

I thought it was an S5?

 

I use idimitsu premix from mazdatrix. I bought a whole box of it. and havent even went trough it yet. I mix around 1/2 punce per gallon. sometime i up a bit to about 3/4 ounce per gallon. but that just me.

 

ok but how do i do the ECU on a 90? also the car does not currently run. it crakes but wont fire. so would that cause it to do that? i can hear the compresion so that is not my problem.

 

You can look at this thread here about removing the OMP on S5.

I was trying to think of a way to trick the ECU into thinking the OM Pwas still active and operating at a certain position at a preset throttle position. I just don't have a S5 to play with so I can't try it.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s5-omp-removal-searchable-thread-326577/

Most of the time people just stash the OMP to the side, but my question is why? Leaving it on is best solution for factory engine.

I would also start a new thread addressing the issue you have with your engine.