Im just curious as to how hot the combustion temps on stock or lightly modded N/A or T2 can get.

Reason I ask is because I found an article that says Ashless TCW3 oils should only be used in engines that have "ring temps" I assume that is "piston rings" so I then assume they are talking around combustion temps, of about 300*F.

Low Ash TCW3 says its rated for up to 400*F. I do not know if this is the "flash point" of the oils or not. I know some oils have flash points of around 200-250*F and for air cooled engines I have seen flash points around 150-190*F.

I wonder how much "worse" 2 stroke is comparied to "motor oil". Not compairing premix to the OMP system. I have heard from my buddy who has been building race engines for over 10years that motor oil does not come out of suspension in gas. Now don't tell me TCW3 stays in suspension better then non TCW3 cause thats a crock of $%&^. Now I wonder if burning and premixing this motor oil would be better lubrication then 2 stroke. I say some where that the flash point of a type of motor oil was around 600*F. Seems promising to me.

I know 2 stroke i made to burn clean, hence the TCW3 meaning ashless or low ash.

This is not changing my opinion on whether to premix or not. Premixing sucks. I don't care how, when or where you do it. It sucks. I'll stick with the omp, thats after I put it back on

I was thinking of having the OMP inject 2 stroke. Im wondering of injecting motor oil would be better.

 

Here is the article.
http://sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm

 

So I thought "flash point" was when the oil combusts into flames. I found that its only when the oil starts to give off vapors that could ignite.... Guess this could go either direction for both types of oil

 

Maybe, you're not familiar with how the OMP works. It is the Oil Metering Pump, it injects MOTOR OIL into the engine, the same motor oil that is in the oil pan. I'm not sure how you could make it inject MOTOR OIL and it would be better, or in that matter any different

Now if you are looking to have it inject 2 stroke oil instead, there are two methods available:

1) Buy the adapter from Rotary Aviation that bolts inbetween the OMP and the front cover.

2) Look in the archives, someone modified their OMP to accept a fitting for the 2-stroke oil. They also blocked the original oil feed to the pump. Kevin Landers did this in his build up thread most recently.

Keep in mind, you will need a reservoir to hold this, and it should be at least six inches above the OMP as reccomended by Rotary Aviation. Kevin Landers used his Sub-Zero Start Assist bottle. I used an aluminum container bolted where the air pump used to be.

Vince

 

Yes I do know how the OMP works. What I was trying to say was having it inject 2 stroke or leaving it as is.

I have already got the OMP modified to inject 2 stroke and already know how to do it and I know I need a resivoir, everything is all built and I'm about to put it on.


I saw a resi online that holds power steering fluid with a fluid level indicator tube that would work fantastic. I may go to that.

Im just trying to see if the 2 stroke may burn off to soon during WOT runs then if you were to stick with motor oil. Im trying to look beyond the fact that 2 stroke burns cleaner.

 

4,000F per howstuffworks.com. I'm surprised when people don't even guess in the thousands.

The housing temperature, however, is almost the same temperature as your coolant: 180F normally, or up to 240F.

How does this work? Air sucks royally at conducting heat. Coolant is great at conducting heat. That's why your radiator has so many fins: to provide an acre of surface area for the air to contact, b/c that's the only way you're gonna cool with air.

The only oil that burns is the oil that seperates from or evaporates off of the housing. Don't worry about it.

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I was going to guess 1600 at WOT or so but I wasn't to sure.

So I suppose the little amount of time there is for the heat to transfer to the lubricating oil is way to short for it to happen.