What sort of oil and water mods are their for rotories, I will be building a full bogie street port maybe bridge port. 13b for my fc and was wondering about the oiling a cooling system. I'm not talking Radiators, OIl coolers. I want to no about using different bearings and differnt pumps who makes them and were to get them. I plan on reving this thing out to 11-12 grand, and don't want failures that I could've solved int he build process. Thanks guys

Kris,

 

11-12K....damn...i dont think you'll be hitting that with a street port. Thats alot of money your $$ in engine parts...hardened stationary gears, clearenced rotors, etc. Maybe with a peripheral port, but I dont think cooling/oiling issues are going to biggest concer, more like when the water jacket cracks!

 

If you want to rev it that high you are going to need balanced rotating assembly, hardened stationary gears, 3 window bearings, have your rotor gears (in the rotor) snap ringed, and a super nice bridge port. Lets not forget you are going to need some apex seals that will make compression that high, and when you use those seals you loose compression down low. Internal parts aside you are going to need to get a lot of air in and a lot out. Getting it out is not a problem but putting it in is going to be a pain. For sure you are going to need to go carb or Hatech (I am assuming this is a N/A application). This just goes to prove that I don’t think it will be very streetable. You could just as easily have it rev to 8.5-9k and it will be just as fun but not as much as a pain in the ***, and more streetable. My 0.02

 

You can get everything from Mazdaspeed:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...0001&langId=-1

They offer both the Mazda factory race dry sump kit, and the Peterson dry sump kit for your oil needs. They also have a 20B competition high-flow aluminum water pump for 12A and 13B engines.

 

10K on a street ported motor is possible if you use the TII intermediate housing and port the snot out of all the intake runners.

I run my fuel pump out of capacity at 8100 if I have the mixture rich enough to make max power, but can get it up to 8400 if I lean it out. Either way it pulls solid till she runs dry on fuel. I'm sure I'll be seeing a solid powerband well past 9500 on this N/A when I can properly feed it.

 

Thats bad *** man! Making power to 9500.....

 

Come spring I'll have a few more tricks up my sleave... I'm working on a better flowing single chamber inkate plenum, going to a larger single butterfly TB, I'll have the fuel system supersized, and possibly running stand alone fuel management.

It's already a killer N/A but when I make the move to stand alone, I'm really tempted to turbo it.

 

ATkins sells a high flow oil pump and a 80 PSI Oil pressure relief Valve ... I installed both in my rebuild and my oil pressure is great! 80-85 at anything above 2k RPM's. I think any good quality water pump will sufice for what you want to do .. just make sure you have a really nice radiator. I replced my water pump during the rebuild with a good Jap model and I have a koyo 53mm Radiator and the temp never even gets to 1/4.

 

I think he was more referring to the oil passage and water jaskcet mods. Not sure what is all involved in either of them.