Fokker

Is it ok to use 5w 30 in a TII? Just wondering

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion I wouldn't. That's some thin oil. I use that in my wifes Z-24 and it's like water. My preference in my '89TII is 10/30 or 10/40 winter, 20/50 summer. Many different opinions as what to use though.

Ryde _Or_Die

10w30 if its cold, 20w50 if not.

GLHS

10-30 whole time, just change more often... Every 800 miles....

NA_VersionFC3S

what about an s4 n/a

GLHS

same 10-30 Castrol, but change it every 1000 miles...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Use 20W-50. It's a thicker oil, and thus won't break down under the extreme heat of the rotary. Also, remember that the engine is oil cooled, so you don't want super thin oil that turns into water when it heats up.

10W-30 if it's really cold, 20W-50 otherwise.

GLHS

When oil gets hot is has a certain thickness and it has a different thickness when cold. Your engine was designed with a certain amount of space to allow a ceretain thickness of oil to pass through for max performance of part and longer life. All engines when built should use this tool Its called PlastiGuage. This allows for clearance for oil on surfaces where needed.

If your running thicker oil your actually getting lets oil to the surface being its thicker moves slower and it too thicker to fit between the clearance.

Oil lubricates by moving fresh oil to the hot surface, the more flow the better, not heavier the better, being its getting hotter breaks down faster and is allowing for wear during start up and driving.

Just do what the factory says.. 10-30...

Mr. Eccentric

The factory says 10-30 because it's widely available, acceptable for the rotary, and considered a 'fuel efficient' oil weight (something the RE needs to be associated with)... It doesn't mean it's the best protection. 20w-50 is the most sensible choice if it's hot. Also, clearances will change on worn engines.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Mr. Eccentric-we agree-The 5/30 created to protect piston engines under normal driving conditions as well as a minimal increase in fuel mileage which all manufacturers are looking for. Combination of 10/30 (winter) & 20/50 (summer) you can't go wrong.
Used plastigage extensively along with micrometers to measure rod and main bearing clearances on piston engines when rebuilding.

GLHS

20- 50 is only good for a worn out engine, as it has enough clearance to allow the 20-50 to get in and do its job...


I have ran 20-50 in my car I live in southern Florida. All 20-50 did was make the car rev slower and killed some power, and got worse mileage, than 10-30.... my .02 cents...