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Oil Pressure Problem

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Old May 6, 2004 | 10:45 PM
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From: Aloha OR
Oil Pressure Problem

Well I started driving my S4 around today(got a trip permit) And my oil pressure gauge was statrting to go lower (its a mechanical). Well I decided to change the oil (the oil smelled like gas), when I got the oil out it really smelled like gas and was very thin. So I put in some 20w50 and now my oil pressure is about 10psi at idle. Is this probably the damn front cover oring problem? I really don't want it to be since I had to assemble this engine twice and can't deal with removing the engine again.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 11:11 PM
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From: Hood River oregon
You shouldnt have to remove your engine to fix the o-ring problem. Only the front cover has to come off.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 11:51 PM
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From: Aloha OR
Is it fairly easy to take off the oil pan and front cover while the engine is still in the car Jrat?
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Old May 7, 2004 | 12:03 AM
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From: Hood River oregon
Doh! I forgot about the oil pan.. I cant imagine why it couldnt be done. I must admit, I have only done it with the engine out so I dont have any firsthand experience, but I have heard that people have pulled the front cover, motor installed.
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Old May 7, 2004 | 12:13 AM
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From: Seattle, WA
How high is the oil pressure supposed to be?
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Old May 7, 2004 | 01:12 AM
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From: Toronto, Corporate Canada
j200pruf, ask Aaron Cake about removing the Oil Pan awhile the Engine Is still mounted In the Engine Bay - It's not fun and I cringe at the thought - especially reinstallation.

Our Oil Pressure Regulator Is noted for being less than consistent. Are you taking readings with a stock or aftermarket Guage? KM's on Engine? If you are having problems with the notorious O-Ring at the Front Iron/Cover, expect to see the Stationary Gear Bearings fused to the E-Shaft and Rotor Bearings scored - badly. Atleast that was In my case. [I]Builder[/B] Installed s4 O-Ring on s5 TII setup with Cover Gasket! I digress.
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Old May 7, 2004 | 01:34 AM
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From: Aloha OR
I am taking readings with a mechanical oil pressure gauge, once fully warmed idle pressure is 10psi at 4k RPM I am getting 40psi. I have about 40 miles on the motor (I recently rebuilt it).

When I first got the car driving around I was getting great oil pressure, 30-40 psi at idle and 60-80psi at 4k. This was with oil that had quite a bit of gas in it. I noticed that idle pressure was at about 20psi and still getting up to 60 at 4k. I found out that gas fouled oil could be a major issue I decided to change the oil and filter. I put in 20w50 Castrol GTX w/ a puralotor filter. My oil pressure was staying at 20 idle and 60 at 4k. Then my pressure at 3-4k went down to 40 psi, I then noticed idle pressures dropping down to 15-10.

I am pretty sure that the oring is bad seeing as I used a Atkins rebuild kit (mostly mazda parts) with the mazda front cover and oring. I should have dealt with that earlier, but I thought I would be ok, big ******* mistake that I am paying for now. I am really getting sick and tired of this ****, especcially since I spent 20 bucks for a 21 day temp tag. Now the car isn't driveable and I only can buy one more 21 day temporary tag.
Sry but I had to rant a little bit.
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Old May 7, 2004 | 03:43 AM
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Oops, substitute Oil Pressure Regulator with stock Oil Pressure Guage, my bad.

Even with a new one I found It not holding up. Perhaps It was the (old) wiring to It...I have an aftermarket one thats assuming the duty now.
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Old May 7, 2004 | 01:20 PM
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From: Aloha OR
So is most of everyone aggreed that I have the damn oring problem. I think that I will get another gauge just to check.
I just called someone and they said it was going to cost about $300 to fix.
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