I recently swapped my motor and hooked everything back up. Everything works now but my oil pressure guage. With the sender that came in my car it goes way below zero with the ignition off and then as soon as you turn it to on the guage pegs way above 110. I grounded out the wire that attaches to the sender and the guage moved, so I know it's a sender problem. Trouble is, I bought a new sender and it now reads nothing, doesn't even jump with the key on. Any thoughts?

 

I had the same issue with my car. So I just installed a SunPro guage. It seems way more accurate to me.

 

Are the sender & housing threads nice and clean for a good ground?

Is the capacitor installed in the circuit (bolts to the slave cylinder)?

Could be bad from stock- wouldn't be the first time...

You didn't fry anything while grounding that sender wire (like the gauge), did you?

 

what is the capacitor

 

Kenteth & the guys have a civil discussion about this very animal going on in another thread as we speak...

The cap (short for capacitor) in this case is the little black "box" that bolts to the clutch slave cylinder. In the oil pressure sender circuit, it acts as a noise filter, by shunting (or "dumping") to ground any EMF pulses induced into the wiring by the ignition system, so that the gauge readings won't be skewed. Many guys have said that their oil pressure gauges run fine without it in the circuit, which means that the plug wires aren't close enough to the wiring to cause problems. Picture the cap as being a dam on a river. It stores electricity just as the dam stores water, but when a voltage spike (heavy rain) occurs in the circuit (river), the cap (dam) discharges the excess safely to ground levels to prevent damage to the circuit or erroneous gauge readings/twitching...

 

WAYNE88N/A you are the man , thanks for your answers

 

more accurately called the Condensor, rather than the Capacitor

 

friends don't shock friends with condensers... or maybe they do!