oil capacity
#1
shhhhhhhh*PSH
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oil capacity
I read somewhere the otherday that the 7 has a capacity of 6.1 quarts. I took this to assume that is what I should put into the engine when changing the oil and filter. I was just looking in the haynes manual and it states that you should only put 5 quarts in. What kind of issues could I be looking at from over filling?
#2
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If the oil was changed when the engine was warm, it should require about 5.5 U.S. quarts. Over-filling by 1/2 quart isn't going to hurt anything. In general, over-filling puts strain on the oil system, but I am not aware of any RX-7's having problems when slightly over-filled. The easiest way to keep oil at the correct level is to read the dipstick and add oil accordingly. Also, I have Fumoto oil drain valves on all my vehicles, which allows for draining a small amount of oil due to over-filling or taking a sample for analysis.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
http://www.fumotousa.com/
#3
shhhhhhhh*PSH
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That looks like a cool tool. Ever have any issues with it leaking or just randomly coming open on you?
The engine was warm, so I hope I haven't damaged it to much.
The engine was warm, so I hope I haven't damaged it to much.
#4
Clean.
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Overfilling is a good way to blow the rear main seal; the seal seperating the engine oil and tranny oil. But I highly doubt you've put in enough oil to do that. I don't even know if it's a possibility on this particular engine. If you're worried you could always drain some oil out. Be sure to check your oil level frequently for a couple weeks after draining, just like you would after an oil change.
I used to have a beat up RX-7 that came with a valve just like the one mentioned. Except I don't think it had that "safety lock". It never leaked. It was handy but OTOH wrenching a plug like I do now isn't that hard either.
I used to have a beat up RX-7 that came with a valve just like the one mentioned. Except I don't think it had that "safety lock". It never leaked. It was handy but OTOH wrenching a plug like I do now isn't that hard either.
#5
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It's better that you changed the oil with the engine warm because a little more oil drains that way.
Wrenching the plug isn't that hard, but it sucks to replace or anneal the crush washer every time you change the oil. Also, the Fumoto valve allows you to change the oil without jacking up the car, and you don't need to worry about fishing the oily plug out of the oil drain pan. Fram made a similar valve, but I didn't like the design quite as much.
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#8
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my way of changing the oil is drain the oil and change the filter...
I then after installing the new oil filter and drain plug with new crush gasket I fill the engine with 4qts of oil..
I start the car and get engine oil pressure..
I remove the oil cap and dipstick and wait 5 minutes I then check and fill the engine to its compacity
I then after installing the new oil filter and drain plug with new crush gasket I fill the engine with 4qts of oil..
I start the car and get engine oil pressure..
I remove the oil cap and dipstick and wait 5 minutes I then check and fill the engine to its compacity
#9
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That is not the rear main seal's function. If it blows it will get oil all over your clutch and ruin it but by no means does it come close to your tranny lube. The only thing the rear main seal does is to keep in oil around the e-shaft.
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