The Wildchild

iTrader: (1)

I just swapped my t2 engine into a new chasis and now I have no spark at all, Im curious whats related to making spark and or needed?

Also is there a way to test the coils?

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Are you getting rpm indication?

Here's how it works. When the engine spins, it spins the CAS. It generates a tiny analog signal that's proportional to engine speed. It gives this signal to the ECU. It, in turn, takes in many inputs from the other sensors on the engine and advances or retards the timing based on what's going on. The ECU sends its modified signal to the coils. At this point, the signal is still small. The igniter inside the coils is effectively an amplifier. It takes the little signal and ramps it up. Like any amplifier, it needs power to do so. Picture this: it's like a switch that gets turned on by the signal. So the signal turns the switch on and off, and sends the amplified signal to the primary side of the coils. Now, a coil is a transformer. When the amplified signal is applied to the primary side, it generates a magnetic field. As the magnetic field expands (it's not instant, in case anyone was wondering) the magnetic lines of flux "cut" the secondary windings. This is called "generator action." This induces a voltage in the secondary windings. Since the secondary windings are wound much much tighter than the primary side, it creates a very high voltage. The high voltage is applied to the spark plug through the wire, giving you spark.

satch

iTrader: (1)

On a stock set up there would be a Black/White wire at the ignition switch which controls the IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box. One of these fuses is the Engine fuse which powers the Main relay, Alternator, and Circuit Opening relay. The Main relay receives power via a B/W wire w/key to on and in doing so the relay should click. Does yours? Again, it gets power from the B/W wire and a ground from the Black wire. There are two wires which run from the engine fuse box to the Main relay which have constant power, the Black/Green wire and the White/Blue wire. Again, these two wires have constant voltage. Does yours? With the key to on the B/G wire at the relay passes voltage on to the Black/Yellow wire which powers up the coils and fuel injectors while the White/Blue wire at the relay powers the Black/White wire which powers the ECU, engine sensors, emission solenoids. Checking any emission solenoid for voltage at the B/W wire and for voltage on the B/Y wire w/key to on will tell you the Engine fuse is being powered up, the Main relay is working, that the EGI INJ and EGI COMP fuses are good, and that through various tests conclude which electrical elements of the engine are receiving or not receiving power.

HAILERS2

Tell us more about your new chassis.

Is this new chassis the same yr as the old chassis? Is it from the same type. By type I mean is you old chassis a turbo and the new chassis a tubo chassis? Or non turbo to non turbo chassis? Or did you put a Turbo engine in a non turbo chassis or vice versa?

It matters. The wiring is not the same b/t say a 1987 and a 1989 RX whether turbo or non turbo.

Just saying it sounds like a different yr chassis you swapped into.

darkblaze

Ok My Main relay doesnt Click how do I fix That Its NEW! How do I Trace No power from those Wires. the fuses Are good does That Mean The wire Powering those fuses Is Broken some where?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what year your car is, but on an S4 and S5, the Main relay is powered by a B/W wire that is found in the "two wire plug" to the relay. This wire should have battery voltage w/key to on. On an S4 and S5 the B/W wire and the Black/Yellow wire found in the "four wire plug" at the relay will have voltage w/key to on if the relay is working.

darkblaze

Its an 87 N/A 5Spd. It dont have Any voltage to those wires all the fuses In the car Under the dash are NEW and Good.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The B/W wire that powers the Main relay (located in the two wire plug to relay), also powers the alternator. If you were to unplug the two wire plug to the alternator and w/key to on measure for voltage on the B/W wire it should have battery voltage. Do any of your accessories work such as horn, flashers which need no key or your wipers and turn signals which requires the key to on?

HAILERS2

TurboII engine in a non turbo chassis problem is the problem if one used a Turbo EM harness on the engiine and mated that Turbo EM harness with the non turbo Front harness (which attaches to the ECU).

The electrical plugs mate up b/t the two harness but the wires do not have the same function in several places..........which can result in the ENGINE fuse blowing. Engine fuse supplys power to the main relay. Engine fuse is inside the car as shown on the decal shown on the FAQ page of this site. IF a turbo em harness was used and mated with the non turbo front harness, then other problems can occur. No, that's not a right thing to say. Problem Will occur....not can occur.

darkblaze

I have power to The EGI fuse in the car But No Power to the Alt and The Main Relay. how would i Trace the problem wires down from The Fuse box?

satch

iTrader: (1)

So you're saying that the 15 amp interior Engine fuse has power to it as well as with key to on the B/W wire at the back of the alternator does not have voltage and the B/W wire in the "two wire Main relay plug" also lacks voltage w/key to on?

darkblaze

Yes The 15amp fuse has Power But No Power to The Main Relay and The alt.

HAILERS2

"cause your harness don't mate, thats why. They may physically mate but the wires in the plugs don't perform the same function.

Any part of the above you don't understand? See wiring diagrams of a turbo EM harness vs non turbo EM harness and the wire functions b/t the two items.

If you used a non turbo EM on the turbo engine.....................then disregard the above. IF you used a turbo EM harness on the turbo engine and mated it with the non turbo Front harness........then the first part of this post applys.

But if the ENGINE fuse has power and no other harness has been messed with other than the EM harness..........then its a given the Main Relay should have power on the black/white wire on the two wire plug of the Main Relay.

On a non turbo car the alternators small plug is in the EM harness. On a Turbo car the alternators small plug is on the engine harness. So if you put a turbo EM harness on the non turbo car..........there will be NO small plug for the alternator. So it's an unknown whether or not you used a non turbo EM harness or a Turbo EM harness on the engine. Although you say there is no voltage at the alternator which indicates there is a small plug there for the alternator. So it's foggy as to just what you have or don't have.

So seeing as how this problem hasn't been fixed yet, it might be a good idea to tell us how you configured the harnesses on the non turbo car that has a turbo engine in it.

FYI.........it did this turbo to non turbo car years ago using the stock non turbo EM harness and had/have no problems that were not easily overcome.

darkblaze

um dude i DONT HAVE A T2 in my car its a STOCK N/A! no T2 swap.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Engine fuse is fed voltage (powered up) from the ignition switch via a Black/White wire. The voltage that passes through the fuse is passed on to a wire which is also B/W as this wire splits in three to power the Main relay, alternator and Circuit Opening relay (which the B/W in this relay should behave just like the B/W wire at the Main relay and alternator since they are fed from the same source). If none of these items has voltage then the B/W wire, which receives voltage from the Engine fuse on the back of the fuse box, is not making proper contact with the fuse holder.

darkblaze

So does that mean i have to take the fuse Box out to see if the Wire is Broken or melted?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Something like that.

darkblaze

ok i did some removing of the Panel and found a Broken wire but was Not the egi fuse wire. but i also found that the Fuse even tho it was new was toast. i replaced it with another New one. the Main relay Clicks but there's still no spark. The Opening circuit relay doesn't click either.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Circuit Opening relay needs to see voltage on the B/W wire located on the top row center spot position of the plug w/key to on.

The B/Y wire at the leading/trailing coil should have voltage w/key to on.

What was the color of the broken/disconnected wire at the fuse box?

darkblaze

it was black and Yellow. the opening relay has Voltage but doesnt click pro means Its toast then well there another 70!

satch

iTrader: (1)

As far as the broken B/Y wire is concerned it might have gone to the 7.5 amp Meter fuse. If the gauges don't work that would be a sign of the Meter fuse not getting power to the gauges among other things.

If you jumpered the solid Black wire located in the bottom row far left of the Circuit Opening relay to the solid Brown wire in the same plug and turned the key to on, the Blue wire in the relay plug would have voltage on it. If the Blue wire does have voltage under this condition then one of the two functions of this particular relay are good. Remember to remove jumper wire if you do this test.

HAILERS2

Your first post says "I just swapped my t2 engine into a new chasis and now I have no spark at all, Im curious whats related to making spark and or needed?

The Circuit Opening Relay will not pull in unless the key is HELD to Start or if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered and thirdly if the engine actually runs and pulls the afm vane aft approx 1/8" or more. Power will be there with the key to ON, but the gnd for the Circuit Opening Relay comes from either the afm or a jumpered fuel check connector. There are TWO coils in the Circuit Opening Relay. One of the coils will pull the relay in without the afm/check connector ground being there but the key has to be to START for THAT coil in the relay to pull it in. The gnd for the second coil is there 24/7 i.e. permanently there.

There are two sources of power to that circuit opening relay. One is there ONLY when the key is held to Start and the other is there anytime the key is put to ON.

I'd go to the fuel check connector with the key already to ON. Then jumper the check connector. You should hear the circuit opening relay pull in if the relay is in place and the engine fuse is good. That's if the wiring is stk. Or just push the vane in the afm aft a bit with the key to ON and the circuit opening relay will pull in and click.

That's if it's a stk series four non turbo car.

Also if it's a stk series four non turbo........the small two wire alt plug should have batt voltage on the Black/White wire if the engine fuse is installed and good. The White/Black will also have batt pwr but it's fed from the Meter fuse. Alt has zip to do with starting but Black/White tells one that the engine fuse is good and it's a quick and easy way to check the engine fuse out.

darkblaze

Um no! this was someone Elses Thread for No spark dude!

HAILERS2

Oh. I see. You highjacked Wildchilds thread instead of starting one of your own. Anyway, what I wrote in my last post above applys to your car. Your circuit opeing relay is most likely not bad at all. Just shove the afm vane aft and listen for the click of the relay (key to ON).

If the main relay is pulling in and both EGI fuse are good, then you should be getting spark whether or not the circuit opening relay is good or not. No fuel though.

darkblaze

actually i DID start one but NO ONE even replied i didnt mean to Hijack his thread lol. but it applies to both me and him so we both benefit from the Info that is Given.