Hi all,

A relative of mine has recently gotten an FC (87 T-II), but is having problems with it starting. It supposedly has a new engine in it, but has never started.

I'm a bit rusty since I haven't worked on FCs (or rotarys) for a long time. But as far as I can tell, the car has new plugs, wires, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, and coolant. Compression sounds good when cranking over, but won't catch. Checked for spark and got nothing.

I'm thinking it's the coils since I couldn't get spark from either the trailing or the leading. I checked the positive lead to the igniter and it didn't have any power.

What should I check to trouble shoot this problem? I used to have a manual, but I can't find it just yet.

Any help, tips, suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

check the CAS (crank angle sensor) connection...the connection may be disconnected...also make sure that the connectors going to both the leadint coil and trailing coils are "in" and snug...

 

Thank's for the tip, I'll check on that tonight. The connector on the CAS is a little gummy, while the leads on the coil aren't exactly clean too.

Though shouldn't the positive lead to the coil be charged with the ignition on? I'm not getting any reading from it.

Regards,

 

Go to the little white plug on the LEad COIL assy. See if 12v is at the black/yellow wire with the key on. No 12v? Then check the 40amp fuse in the engine bay. Good fuse? Then go to the fuse box in the car and check the fuses on the third row from the bottom. SEcond fuse from the left. IT gives power to the MAIN RELAY that feeds the afore mentioned blck/yellow wire.

Only use a digital meter on this car. Do not use a bug lite or whatever they call those things.

 

Thanks for the detailed steps and tip. I'll definitely trace it back as far as necessary. Hope that it is indeed a bad fuse.

Just curious, what difference does it make testing for voltage using a test light versus a DMM?

Regards,

 

A DMM gives you an accurate reading...All a test light does is light up in the presence of voltage.

Rat

 

Also I believe that the test light if used on the output of the ECU, will draw tooo much current and whack the ECU. Serious thing to consider. Thats why some folk shy away from using bug lights to test the tps. Instead of getting some led's, the get common light bulbs which whack the ECU. Something like that.

Here, read this fromn rxster a year ago. In his step six he mentions the bug lights and ECU burnt transistors. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=17974

 

Okay, finally had sometime to work on the FC. I tested and checked the fuses that provide power to the coils. They all checked out fine, and I am getting 12v+ to the black/yellow wire, and at the coil.

I have a feeling the timing is really off, and I'm trying to get it somewhat closer to the right timing to at least get it started. I recall long ago when rebuilding my old FC, that I was able to time the car by just cranking over the engine with the starter. I'm sure it's not the best thing to do, but better than nothing.

Anyone know how to set the timing for an engine that won't start?

Thanks again for the tips and suggestions so far Hailers and everyone.

Regards,