No Ordinary Love : Tek's rebuild
01-24-11, 09:32 AM
#52
I however accomplished the same thing with the ghetto method. I used a piece of 1" angle iron drilled for 2 flywheel bolts. Bolt it on so that the angle iron will lock the engine against the frame, or if you are on jack stands, it jams against the floor of the garage. The lets you break the nut off very easily with a standard impact wrench.
I didn't invent it, I found a post relating this on the forum.
Good Luck with the build!
01-24-11, 09:49 AM
#53
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
My impact wrench would not break the nut free-the engine spun too easily. Maybe it was my wrench, maybe I didn't have enough air pressure? Mazdtrix sells a tool to lock the flywheel so that the motor can't spin.
I however accomplished the same thing with the ghetto method. I used a piece of 1" angle iron drilled for 2 flywheel bolts. Bolt it on so that the angle iron will lock the engine against the frame, or if you are on jack stands, it jams against the floor of the garage. The lets you break the nut off very easily with a standard impact wrench.
I didn't invent it, I found a post relating this on the forum.
Good Luck with the build!
I however accomplished the same thing with the ghetto method. I used a piece of 1" angle iron drilled for 2 flywheel bolts. Bolt it on so that the angle iron will lock the engine against the frame, or if you are on jack stands, it jams against the floor of the garage. The lets you break the nut off very easily with a standard impact wrench.
I didn't invent it, I found a post relating this on the forum.
Good Luck with the build!
With that flywheel stopper tool, a good size impact should get the flywheel nut off. Worse comes to worst, get a long breaker and jump on it.
The more difficult one is the front bolt. Especially if there is some blue locktite on it. Locktite fights vibrations.... generally you need a long bar with constant pressure to get that one off especially if it's never been touched. Same with the tension bolts. An impact can sometimes have difficulty taking these off because the long bolt twists and absords the force before the bulk of it reaches the threads. One good pull with a breaker though and they'll come right out.
01-24-11, 10:55 AM
#54
With that flywheel stopper tool, a good size impact should get the flywheel nut off. Worse comes to worst, get a long breaker and jump on it.
The more difficult one is the front bolt. Especially if there is some blue locktite on it. Locktite fights vibrations.... generally you need a long bar with constant pressure to get that one off especially if it's never been touched. Same with the tension bolts. An impact can sometimes have difficulty taking these off because the long bolt twists and absords the force before the bulk of it reaches the threads. One good pull with a breaker though and they'll come right out.
The more difficult one is the front bolt. Especially if there is some blue locktite on it. Locktite fights vibrations.... generally you need a long bar with constant pressure to get that one off especially if it's never been touched. Same with the tension bolts. An impact can sometimes have difficulty taking these off because the long bolt twists and absords the force before the bulk of it reaches the threads. One good pull with a breaker though and they'll come right out.
Make sure you have Red locktite on hand when you put the flywheel nut back on.
Regarding the front bolt, I use the breaker bar/starter bump method. It was a little scary the first time, but really is a piece of cake. I've done it twice now, works every time. Just make sure that the clutch is pressed in or the flywheel is wedged (if you are doing this when the tranny is out of the car) so that the torrington thrust bearing doesn't slip.
Member OFRC since 2005.
01-24-11, 04:20 PM
#55
NA-BOOSTIN
With that flywheel stopper tool, a good size impact should get the flywheel nut off. Worse comes to worst, get a long breaker and jump on it.
The more difficult one is the front bolt. Especially if there is some blue locktite on it. Locktite fights vibrations.... generally you need a long bar with constant pressure to get that one off especially if it's never been touched. Same with the tension bolts. An impact can sometimes have difficulty taking these off because the long bolt twists and absords the force before the bulk of it reaches the threads. One good pull with a breaker though and they'll come right out.
The more difficult one is the front bolt. Especially if there is some blue locktite on it. Locktite fights vibrations.... generally you need a long bar with constant pressure to get that one off especially if it's never been touched. Same with the tension bolts. An impact can sometimes have difficulty taking these off because the long bolt twists and absords the force before the bulk of it reaches the threads. One good pull with a breaker though and they'll come right out.
01-24-11, 05:02 PM
#56
lol. recently had to get a front bolt out after a friend pulled the motor BEFORE i could get him to starter bump it.
you'll have to find a way to lock the flywheel, ghetto or otherwise, i was in a hurry and went ghetto with a few wrenchs and bolts. a 6 foot pole is a good idea to have also.
The first engine i did years ago i put in to the trunk of my caddy and road around to diffrent shops til i found someone with a 1000 FT lb impact. all of the 500's and 600's wouldn't do it.
you'll have to find a way to lock the flywheel, ghetto or otherwise, i was in a hurry and went ghetto with a few wrenchs and bolts. a 6 foot pole is a good idea to have also.
The first engine i did years ago i put in to the trunk of my caddy and road around to diffrent shops til i found someone with a 1000 FT lb impact. all of the 500's and 600's wouldn't do it.
01-24-11, 05:09 PM
#57
The surefire method [for the flywheel nut] seems to be:
*Heat the nut with a propane torch until it changes color ever so slightly [or it's just warm/hot all the way through]
*Hit it with your impact tool of choice [I have a ~300ft/lb Dewalt 1/2" Electric impact that works great].
If you don't have an impact tool, use a long breaker bar with a pipe [or jack handle] slid over the end. I assume the engine's out of the car, and strapped down or on an engine stand, once that's ready have a couple friends stand on the the engine stand [or whatever the engine's tied down to] and go at it [usually took me 3 friend standing on the hoist legs that it was strapped down to, plus me and another friend pushing down on ~6' of leverage...] For this method you still have to use the propane!
lol, which is to say... The impact gun is a lot easier for only $60 used [or new generic at Harbor Freight] ^_-
*Heat the nut with a propane torch until it changes color ever so slightly [or it's just warm/hot all the way through]
*Hit it with your impact tool of choice [I have a ~300ft/lb Dewalt 1/2" Electric impact that works great].
If you don't have an impact tool, use a long breaker bar with a pipe [or jack handle] slid over the end. I assume the engine's out of the car, and strapped down or on an engine stand, once that's ready have a couple friends stand on the the engine stand [or whatever the engine's tied down to] and go at it [usually took me 3 friend standing on the hoist legs that it was strapped down to, plus me and another friend pushing down on ~6' of leverage...] For this method you still have to use the propane!
lol, which is to say... The impact gun is a lot easier for only $60 used [or new generic at Harbor Freight] ^_-
01-24-11, 05:14 PM
#58
Man, all this difficulty to remove the front bolt?
I went to home depot, bought a long (as in four feet long) piece of right angle iron, drilled two holes in it to line up with the holes for the pressure plate, bolted it up, and had a buddy hold the angle iron while I put a breaker bar on the front bolt. Worked great for the flywheel nut too!
Do NOT use RED loctite on the flywheel! It requires heat to remove. You don't want that!
I went to home depot, bought a long (as in four feet long) piece of right angle iron, drilled two holes in it to line up with the holes for the pressure plate, bolted it up, and had a buddy hold the angle iron while I put a breaker bar on the front bolt. Worked great for the flywheel nut too!
Do NOT use RED loctite on the flywheel! It requires heat to remove. You don't want that!
01-24-11, 05:24 PM
#60
F**K THE SYSTEM!!
lol... haters everywhere...
If HOckey pucks are ghetto then solid aluminum motor mounts are also ghetto...
same shape.... same purpose... same vibrations... weight? idk i dont play hockey..... ******* same ****....
If you tell me your way is the only way to the mountain top. That is pure hypocrisy.
If HOckey pucks are ghetto then solid aluminum motor mounts are also ghetto...
same shape.... same purpose... same vibrations... weight? idk i dont play hockey..... ******* same ****....
If you tell me your way is the only way to the mountain top. That is pure hypocrisy.
01-24-11, 07:49 PM
#63
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
My 500ft/lb impact will sometimes not break the tension bolts loose. Yet if I use a 18" long 1/2"drive breaker bar I can get them off. Anyone want to explain why? Or how this relates to the front bolt?
01-24-11, 08:06 PM
#64
You are all pussies if you need an pneumatic/electric impact tool to take the flywheel nut off. 
Friend(s) and I have done 5 or 6 of these by now without any power tools! I will say this though: i have broken sockets and ratchets on tension bolts and main pulleys before, all by hand.
Use that elbow grease!
Friend(s) and I have done 5 or 6 of these by now without any power tools! I will say this though: i have broken sockets and ratchets on tension bolts and main pulleys before, all by hand.Use that elbow grease!
01-24-11, 09:33 PM
#67
I used it because the FSM says use locking compound. Now why do you suppose the Mazda FSM says to use thread lock and you say don't?
Additionally, I posted up on this very forum asking what color to use, since the FSM does not specify. Green loctite is considered permanent, Blue loctite is considered light duty. Red loctite often needs heat, but that is just to make removal easier, since it is a very secure lock. The final answer from Icemark was Red Loctite and the reasoning was as I have described. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=loctite
01-24-11, 10:12 PM
#68
So your 18" breaker bar is 1.5 feet in length. If we are calculating in ft/lbs this means that for every 1lb of force you exert into the bar 1.5ft/lbs of is being applied to the bolt. Assuming you can apply force exactly perpendicular to the bolt.
Your impact gun is limited in its output based on the air PSI and its design, you breaker bar is only limited by you and how much the bar can handle itself.
Let me ask you this though, when both methods work which requires the least amount of effort?
01-24-11, 10:16 PM
#69
You are all pussies if you need an pneumatic/electric impact tool to take the flywheel nut off. Friend(s) and I have done 5 or 6 of these by now without any power tools! I will say this though: i have broken sockets and ratchets on tension bolts and main pulleys before, all by hand.
Use that elbow grease!
Friend(s) and I have done 5 or 6 of these by now without any power tools! I will say this though: i have broken sockets and ratchets on tension bolts and main pulleys before, all by hand.Use that elbow grease!
01-24-11, 10:29 PM
#70
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I hope i didnt under-tighten minemakes me want to recheck my tension bolts.... Any harm in doing this?
Same type of thing with the blue locktite found on the front bolt. Except those are torqued to 100ish ft/lbs
01-25-11, 10:31 AM
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01-25-11, 11:50 AM
#75
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i think i used a high powered impact to take off the flywheel when i did my drivetrain swap. don't recall using the breaker bar. or was it reversed?
either way, keep it up man.
either way, keep it up man.