lol, I was waiting for it

 

like they said flywheel bolt is easy, I hit it with a chisel and a hammer it came right off.
The front bolt was the bitch, I brought it to work, used my impact gun and my friends (both 1/2" Titanium IR guns), did not budge, went to my coworkers fathers house used his 3/4" gun would not budge thought it was caused by the 3/8" standard airline, so went to my friends house and his dad is a deisel mechanic, he had the big hose and used his 3/4" gun nothing. got a flywheel stopper and used a 6ft breaker bar and a friend and it finally came off.

 

Front rotor and housing will need to be replaced
D weight

 

u blew that good lol

 

I'm surprised the exhaust wheel on your turbo survived that. I don't know what seals you are using. I've done the same thing with both Mazda and Atkins seals. I'm on RA Super Seals now and have been quite happy with them. I've detonated twice and they haven't had an issue.

 

To everyone knocking on the hockey puck mounts. Stop. They work. Dont call em ghetto. Its actually pretty innovative. a hockey puck for a motor mount that actually works good.. thers nothing wrong in that. cheap, easy, and it works, what more do you people want?


buttt back on topic. i absolutely love the way your car looks exterior wise, not a huge fan of rotaries, but i do love seeing em all apart and they are crazy *** motors.

 

You said butt.


giggle.

 

Keep it Up Hypertek!
I remember first logging on to this site, your car has been by far one of the cleanest FCs on here. Its not a FC everyone may like but its something FC Owners should strive for. To have a clean, well maintained rotary powered machine. That is something we all can agree on.

 

Jesus that front rotor and housing are hammered.
The rebuild's comin along nicely Tek. Keep up the good work.
Your car is one of my favorite FCs.

 

ohh man! thats a blow motor alright. cool to see ur rebuilding ur engine ur self. when mine goes id like to rebuild and port my own the 2nd time around. may i ask y ur going with a hybrid and not an external wastegate turbo? not talkin down, just curious. btw, this tread makes me wonder if i should ever post up my own fc ventures/build thread lmao!

 

Need suggestions on rebuild kits with budget in mind. Basically basic kit. I dont mind using silicon gasket maker in place of actual new gaskets where needed like oil pan etc.
RA kits look good but then they dont have side seals.

 

stock mazda side seals

 

goopy has everything cheaper then RA and provides options for everything

 

this answers my question, good luck with ur build.

 

cheapest way with factory parts is to buy the s4 O-ring kit, and an intake gasket.

for the seals you measure yours and buy what you actually need.

 

talk to Gurew on here, he can probably give you a good price on a rebuild kit. tellem I sent you

 

thanks, was looking at your thread, some awesome stuff there. is there a retail site that offeres goopy's products? i looked at their main page, and some of the authorized dealers but i couldnt find one.

 

Call John at Goopy. Hes more then willing to answer any questions, his site is a bit outdated.

 

alright cool.

Question regarding rotor weights. Both of mine are D. I read that it is safe to go no more than 2 letter differences in weight. My question is Im sure its best to go with both matching letters, now how much difference would going 1 letter different affect things? Say I find a C rotor to replace my D front rotor.

Another curious question, S4 NA rotors are 9.4 compression where as s5 TII is 9. has anyone went with S4 NA rotors in a S5 TII ? I read that it could make great power at lower boost levels as opposed to stock compression with higher boost. but with the added risk of being more prone to detonation.

 

I was considering this for the motor that I'm slowly piecing together (in advance ). S4 (9.4) seems like a perfect compromise between S5 TII (9.0) and S5 N/A (9.7) and I already have a good condition set of S4 rotors, and a set of S5 N/A rotors (one has a spun bearing though). However the S4 rotors are heavier. I'm wondering if the weight benefit of the S5 rotors would be worth the "kid gloves" tuning approach one would have to take once the motor is built/boosted? The off-boost response would be great and you could make more power w/ less boost. However from what I've read detonation starts to become a serious concern when the boost starts increasing...however, in theory at least you should be able to make great power @ relatively low boost levels.

 

If people turbocharge NA s4s with out much concern then I suppose its all good. I wonder how much that weight between the s4 and s5 rotors really makes?
Would the front counterweight need to match those s4 rotors?

 

I believe so.
There are small weight variations even between the same compression ratio rotors (A, B, C... maybe more), though I don't think each of those small variations need different counterweights.

 

If you want a rotary to last, the key is to ensure the entire rotating assembly is balanced as close to perfect as possible. Get the right rotor and send the entire assembly including blasted and coated counterweight out to have it balanced.

 

ideally you want a complete rotating assembly from the same engine/weight but
due to the age of S4/S5 motors its sometimes easier to find these in FD, obviously more expensive

 

Any updates my dude? I'm anxious to see how the hybrid turbo performs.