hey guys i finished up my drivetrain swap, after 5 months of on and off work and now all i need is to get the car to start!!! at first i thought it just wasnt getting fuel since i pulled the fuel injectors and had them flowed and cleaned so i just kept cranking it trying to get it to start, after a few days of trying to get fuel i decided to test other possibilities.. i did a spark test by using a screw driver on the plug wire and and grounding it, also pulled a plug and tried that... not getting any spark...

i did some searching and i tested for voltage at the coil packs and read 12v... also tested for voltage and the b/w wire on the emissions solenoid and got 12v.. checked all fuses.. and to my knowledge everything is connected in the engine bay with one exception i broke the connector on the air temp sensor trying to plug it back in but i searched and the car should start without that.

in the process of the drivetrain swap i completely removed the uim, pulled the injectors, swapped the clutch, flywheel, starter, tranny, driveshaft, rear end, and axles... in this process is there something im overlooking that would be causing me not to get any spark? what do i check next? i really need to get this thing running this week.. thanks for all your help

 

Any ideas?

 

heres a video of me trying to start it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xc1mxfa8WJU

 

check your crank angle sensor wires

 

I've checked all my sensors I can think of kinda hard considering my swap left a dozen unconnected plugs. But I checked all the ones, to my knowledge that were hooked up before. My next step is to take the uim off and see if there's anything I missed hooking back up, anything specific I should look for? I'm starting to think maybe somewhere I disconnected an important ground.

The only other thing to add is when I was initially trying tohook up the battery and start it the starter was hooked up wrong and arching the battery. At one point it melted the 15a engine fuse. I replaced the fuse is there anything specific I should check to see If got fried when that fuse melted?

 

Man. No ideas? I'm at a dead end here

 

Jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on and measure the Blue/Green wire for voltage at the rear of the car which plugs into the fuel pump. The Engine fuse powers the Circuit Opening relay which may not be working properly after the 15 amp fuse was blown and this would prevent the fuel pump from operating.

 

The fuel pump is definetely working. After several cranking attempts fuel was dripping from the exhaust joints.. I know the car is probably pretty well flooded now aftet several attempts to get it to crank. But until I know I'm getting spark no point in worrying about it being flooded.

 

Your tach is bumping a little so there is something going on with respect to the trailing coil but since the leading coil is the only one needed to start and run the engine then focus on just that coil. So the Black/Yellow wire to the leading coil has battery voltage w/key to on as I understood from one of your previous posts. Make sure the coil is bolted to the fender properly as this is how the igniter grounds itself. You could measure the voltage on the Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil w/key to on as you rotate the alternator's pulley. Rotating this pulley should cause the main pulley to rotate which will cause the CAS to rotate and send a signal to the ECU which is then to be interpreted and then then the ECU sends a signal on the G/Y wire to the leading coil to trigger the firing of that coil. The voltage on this G/Y wire will be 5 volts then 0 volts then 5 volts and so on as the main pulley is turned.

 

generally when the tach is bumping like that there should be spark at least on the trailing side. You may not be checking for spark properly.


also sounds like a weak battery. and not to worry you but the compression pulses of the motor sound strange..

 

You have very slow cranking speed in that video. Either a very weak battery or a weak starter.. Charge it up, use a second battery to jump it for extended cranking.

Slow cranking speed will make any rotary harder to start.

For example: The starter died on my 87 gxl. I had lots of trouble starting with the new starter (orielly auto). The engine just didn't turn over very fast and the engine would flood. I replaced the starter under warranty after a few days. The replacement was fine, starting trouble was over.

Also, install a fuel cut switch so you can control the fuel pump from the drivers seat. Eliminate the flooding totally.

Get or make a tool to check for spark. I personally use a 'test plug' made from a used but good spark plug with a wire wrapped around the threads. Wire should be 2-3 ft long. Cheap (free) to make.

To use it, pull the boot off the plug you are testing, leaving that plug in the engine. Put your 'test plug' in the boot. Wrap the other end of the wire around a ground. Have a helper crank the car. You will either see spark or not.

Commercial version:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0td1w20Shao

Or you can just get a friend to hold the wire while you crank it.

Good Luck!