NA-T people...quick question...
10-17-05, 06:44 PM
#1
...94% correct.
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NA-T people...quick question...
S4 N/A block, mild porting, and freshly rebuilt...how would that mix with stock boost slapped in a TII chassis? Will I have any problems with boosting or the compression? I know it's not the "best" method, but I can get the motor for really cheap.
Also, if anyone wants to volunteer how the oil and cooling lines are routed with turbo'ed N/A blocks I'd appreciate it. I am searching but I don't have a lot of time to make up my mind...
Also, if anyone wants to volunteer how the oil and cooling lines are routed with turbo'ed N/A blocks I'd appreciate it. I am searching but I don't have a lot of time to make up my mind...
10-17-05, 07:07 PM
#2
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
ok...I think I got it covered. .5~.75 bar is safe, but not much more than that without a lot fo other support.
Still working on the oil feed lines...
Still working on the oil feed lines...
10-17-05, 08:11 PM
#3
What will I drive next?
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Replying so I can find this easier later. I've got a bookmark at home with a good 6port turbo writeup from (I think) the FC3s.org forums. I'll reply later with a link.
10-17-05, 08:29 PM
#4
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Easiest place for water for a turbo: nipple on the back of the waterpump, and the nipple on the rear of the iron (stock these run around through the BAC, and to the thermowax)
Best to do with the oil drain: Install a oil pedistal with some NPT ports or similar, throw in an adapter (usually 1/8NPT to -4AN), run -4AN to the turbo, buy a -4AN inlet flange, bolt it on. Also buy a -10 or -12 drain flange, drill/tap the front cover at the stock drain location (all front covers have it cast in, it's just not drilled on the N/A), another adapter, put it in with a teflon ring or similar, and tada!
Best to do with the oil drain: Install a oil pedistal with some NPT ports or similar, throw in an adapter (usually 1/8NPT to -4AN), run -4AN to the turbo, buy a -4AN inlet flange, bolt it on. Also buy a -10 or -12 drain flange, drill/tap the front cover at the stock drain location (all front covers have it cast in, it's just not drilled on the N/A), another adapter, put it in with a teflon ring or similar, and tada!
10-17-05, 08:31 PM
#5
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Sonic got me sorted out! The 6-port NA-T write up on FC3S.org is no longer there, I've heard...
At any rate, Sonic says that he just taps a drain in the general area of the stock TII drain just under the OMP, and that feed can come from a guage or check port.
I was just going to plumb the tb cooling lines into the turbo and sonic says that's what he does.
At any rate, Sonic says that he just taps a drain in the general area of the stock TII drain just under the OMP, and that feed can come from a guage or check port.
I was just going to plumb the tb cooling lines into the turbo and sonic says that's what he does.
10-17-05, 08:32 PM
#6
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Easiest place for water for a turbo: nipple on the back of the waterpump, and the nipple on the rear of the iron (stock these run around through the BAC, and to the thermowax)
Best to do with the oil drain: Install a oil pedistal with some NPT ports or similar, throw in an adapter (usually 1/8NPT to -4AN), run -4AN to the turbo, buy a -4AN inlet flange, bolt it on. Also buy a -10 or -12 drain flange, drill/tap the front cover at the stock drain location (all front covers have it cast in, it's just not drilled on the N/A), another adapter, put it in with a teflon ring or similar, and tada!
Best to do with the oil drain: Install a oil pedistal with some NPT ports or similar, throw in an adapter (usually 1/8NPT to -4AN), run -4AN to the turbo, buy a -4AN inlet flange, bolt it on. Also buy a -10 or -12 drain flange, drill/tap the front cover at the stock drain location (all front covers have it cast in, it's just not drilled on the N/A), another adapter, put it in with a teflon ring or similar, and tada!
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10-17-05, 08:46 PM
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No, why would you really need one? They're pretty easy to spot just by looking... They run around from the waterpump, the BAC, to the thermowax area... I just remove all that crap and run from the waterpump -> turbo -> rear nipple.
10-17-05, 08:48 PM
#9
...94% correct.
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Originally Posted by k-rok
does anyone have a pic of the exact cooling lines being talked about on the TB?
I don't have a pic handy but all you got to do is look directly behind the waterpump housing. There's a little port there...that's the feed. Or you can look at the TB, there's a port on either side, one goes down to the BAC valve. You can split into it anywhere or just bypass the BAC and TB. I'm probably just going to run the cooling lines down to the turbo and bypass the BAC.
10-17-05, 09:43 PM
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I leave my timing stock. I started off with 550/720 and a walbro 255, that was fine with the N/A ecu with 0 correction at 8psi (ran awful rich obviously, so then I put in some minor corrections using the wideband), and I drove that way for a LONG time.
10-17-05, 09:49 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
I leave my timing stock. I started off with 550/720 and a walbro 255, that was fine with the N/A ecu with 0 correction at 8psi (ran awful rich obviously, so then I put in some minor corrections using the wideband), and I drove that way for a LONG time.
10-17-05, 09:55 PM
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Depends, for running as stock or if i ran higher boost. Stock I removed about 17% from the fuel, obviously varried a little through the band. After that, I dropped down to ~10% at I believe 10-11psi, then if i ever ran higher I just removed correction. It's hard to say, all cars act a bit different.
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