scathcart

Try the Clutchnet 4 or 6-puck discs with a sprung center. They aren't too harsh when used with a stock pressure plate, and they hold plenty of power.

FYI: Racingbeat and Mazdatrix don't actually make their own "race disks". They just sell Clutchnet disks and don't tell anyone. You figure that out pretty easily when the clutch arrives.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the information, I couldn't find much in searching regarding who manufactured the discs, as I figured they didn't. I definatly want a sprung disc. Should I stick with the stock pressure plate or move up to perhaps their heavy duty or even race? I'm not all to bothered by pedal feel, as stop and go traffic here is pretty rare, I'm just more concerned with getting a good bite and holding it. I'm not about to go drag racing every day either, so I don't need anything as obscene as an on off switch. Any ideas?

scathcart

I've set these clutches (4 puck sprung) up to be used with 75 shots on N/A's using the stock pressure plate, and haven't heard anything bad coming back.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the input yet again. I think i'll go with a 6 puck on my stock pressure plate (resurfaced of course) and if I get any slip/problems I'll just go with an upgraded pressure plate.

Any suggestions on a source for a 6 puck? I can't seem to find any sprung 6 pucks.

BDoty311

From what I have heard, it doesn't make too much of a difference. I have a ACT unsprung 6-puck in my AE, and it is very streetable. Takes alittle getting used to though, but this clutch has seen over 400rwhp and 11 sec 1/4 miles without a bit of slipping.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Here is my setup. ans the thread on the pieces I needed.


https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=oil+return

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I'm copying your return, but I'm trying to figure out a way to do the feed in stainless, since us poor N/A folk don't have the metal hardlines to pump the oil in. Any ideas on this?

fcfdfan

Sonic: Congrats on the conversion. The ACT clutch I put in Mr. Grey (sig) is stout and with all my mods I think I am generating at least the same rwhp as your six port -- so you could count on it working in your set up. Good luck!

scathcart

Clutchnet.com

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Do they have pricing anywhere on the site, or do I have to call them? Also, which would suit me better, 4 or 6?

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

The more pucks, generally the smoother engagement. Id go with a 6 personally.

jon88se

I'd go with a centerforce dual friction clutch unless you plan on upwards of 300 hp @ the crank. It will feel like a stock clutch and should hold that power fine without abuse (i.e. drag racing every weekend). Religious break-in is key to the CFDF clutch - go easy for 500 miles and it will reward you.

scathcart

Call them and use a 6 puck clutch.
They are around $130 for a disk.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

My only problem with that is I'm afraid i'm going to be right near that, which is why I kind of avoided the centerforce.

Thanks for the info scathcart, that's probably the route I'll be taking. If it slips at all on the higher band I'll upgrade the pressure plate and that should take care of it.

White_FC

Wow interesting..

I was just going on what I was told by the hose place I went to. Either way my rubber line **** itself pretty quick.. Just got too hot I imagine.

Can you get silicone covered rubber hose or something then? Maybe thats what this hose place was on about..
Ah I dunno...

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

What turbo are you running? I've got a s5 in mine and the rear of it was pretty close to the frame so I hammered in an area for clearance, but my wastegate fit perfectly after i cut off the squared corners of the bracket. Pictures soon, I hope!

BDoty311

Dont get the centerforce clutch, the previous owner of my AE went through a few before he realized that they weren't really made for RX-7s.

miketreid

Can you list what parts you had to add or change to make this work. I think I am going to take the plung also. I have gone to the only site I have found to see one done, I just wanted to know if you used it as a guide or did something different. http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm 'This was the page'

pd_day

iTrader: (6)

Hey SonicRaT, how did you modify the wastegate so that you didn't need to notch the frame? Also, where does your oil return line go to?

Tapped in the pan?

miketreid

Did you do this and keep the emissions working?

White_FC

I Was running a S4 one, that blew so now i've got a t3/t4 hybrid turbo (not originally a S4 or 5 turbo..)
So my setup is a bit different.. Will be putting probably a T04B on it in the not too distant future though.

I've also always had a custom steam pipe manifold the whole time, so I never had to cut the chasis rail either to fit the wastegate.. Which, IMHO at least, is a rather dodgy thing to be doing just the fit the wastegate in without modifying that first...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can get silicone covered rubber hose.

That's what I have for my Coolant pickup line.

It's supposed to be stronger and more heat resistant.

Just make sure you get the hose which is for your application.

I've found ones which say for coolant only and others for oil only.

miketreid

What is a home depot boost controller? I am only asking because I am wanting to set up a turbo on my 88SE N/A.

Wankel7

good job man!

How do you like that new Techedge unit? Did you build it yourself?

James

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Wow a crazy array of posts!

pd_day: I'm using a s5 turbo, and the wastegate fit pretty much perfectly in the stock location, I just had to remove the square edges of the bracket that it sits on and it fit perfectly, I had to put it on AFTER the turbo was mounted, with the oil return line OFF. It fits just fine/works fine. The oil return line goes to the stock Turbo return (i've got a turbo II front cover installed) Figured it was easier than removing the oil pan/etc, and I had to fix some low oil pressure issues anyway.

miketried: I'm emissionsless, I've got nothing on the car except for about 5 vacuum lines. Also, the home depot boost controller is a ball/spring controller built from different fittings at home depot. I've got a link somewhere I'll dig up for you.

Wankel7: lol, nice avatar. Anyway, the unit's working pretty good, i've got the display mounted in the center of my gauge cluster so I can't really miss what's going on, other than it's warm up procedure i have absolutely no complaints. I bought a prebuilt, too lazy to do it myself.

Now time for some pictures! Also, first person to make fun of how ugly the car looks, or how ghetto rigged it is gets an apex through the heart. I know just how rigged and how ugly it is, I don't need to be reminded.