my turbo'd 6 port, first drive
#102
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
There are many locations you could tap the engine for oil, and you could certainly tap the oil pedistole if you can fit everything.
There are many locations you could tap the engine for oil, and you could certainly tap the oil pedistole if you can fit everything.
#103
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As aaron said, I tapped the oil pedistal with a 1/8 npt, then used a 90 degree elbow to convert that to a 1/4 npt, and i just put a hose barb on the other side, this made it point forward so I could route it easier. Been working fine so far, with no leaks.
#104
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
As aaron said, I tapped the oil pedistal with a 1/8 npt, then used a 90 degree elbow to convert that to a 1/4 npt, and i just put a hose barb on the other side, this made it point forward so I could route it easier. Been working fine so far, with no leaks.
As aaron said, I tapped the oil pedistal with a 1/8 npt, then used a 90 degree elbow to convert that to a 1/4 npt, and i just put a hose barb on the other side, this made it point forward so I could route it easier. Been working fine so far, with no leaks.
When im done with mine, I'll post it, although it'll pretty much look like a TII engine in there.. well.. hell.. i guess it is a TII engine in there.. or something. Damn mutt engine.
Charles
#107
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thats true but does the spinning turbo create more suction than the oil pressure can supply if its a small line? i doubt it but you never know.
also in terms of return line design, how much clearence ois there between the pan and internal components. couldnt one just use a bulkhead an fitting and not worry about welding, just drill a hole, silicone it up and tighten down the bulkhead? is there a standard return line size?
also in terms of return line design, how much clearence ois there between the pan and internal components. couldnt one just use a bulkhead an fitting and not worry about welding, just drill a hole, silicone it up and tighten down the bulkhead? is there a standard return line size?
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The line isn't very big to begin with, as you can see if you look at the hard lines, so it doesn't have to be a 'huge' line. I still think it's a better idea to tap the front cover. My return size was around 3/4" to 1", can't remember off the top of my head.
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What about using a T fitting on the oil cooler lines. I already have SS lines with AN fittings. So a T fitting should work for both return and sending right?
And for the coolant, could you use the heater core lines?
And for the coolant, could you use the heater core lines?
Last edited by wpgrexx; 05-11-04 at 09:54 AM.
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There's no need to use the heater core lines. Use the line that comes off the back of the waterpump, and then run the return to the nipple on the back of the engine block, there's no need to do anything different for coolant.
#111
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You can use a T fitting on the oil feed line, but the drain must go to a point of zero pressure like the front cover or oil pan.
Don't put the turbo in series with the heater core. Like most cars, the FC cuts coolant flow through the core when the heat is not on.
Don't put the turbo in series with the heater core. Like most cars, the FC cuts coolant flow through the core when the heat is not on.
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
You can use a T fitting on the oil feed line, but the drain must go to a point of zero pressure like the front cover or oil pan.
Don't put the turbo in series with the heater core. Like most cars, the FC cuts coolant flow through the core when the heat is not on.
You can use a T fitting on the oil feed line, but the drain must go to a point of zero pressure like the front cover or oil pan.
Don't put the turbo in series with the heater core. Like most cars, the FC cuts coolant flow through the core when the heat is not on.
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
There's no need to use the heater core lines. Use the line that comes off the back of the waterpump, and then run the return to the nipple on the back of the engine block, there's no need to do anything different for coolant.
There's no need to use the heater core lines. Use the line that comes off the back of the waterpump, and then run the return to the nipple on the back of the engine block, there's no need to do anything different for coolant.
I think for oil I will use the pedestal and drain into a tapped hole in the front cover. Thanks guys.
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The coolant feed to the heater core is valved at the core, so tapping it before the core will still provide coolant regardless of heater operation. Not sure where you would drain it to though, unless you want to T into the upper rad hose.
If you're really stuck for coolant sources, just put a piece of pipe into each rad hose and tap for a nipple.
If you're really stuck for coolant sources, just put a piece of pipe into each rad hose and tap for a nipple.
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Thanks Aaron. Good ideas. Sonic thanks also, you guys are both being big helps to my last few concerns on my project. Aaron I pmed you so I don't jack this thread anymore
#117
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I got a question.
With the spacer moving the turbo outwards, will the aux actuators still fit??
I would assume it would give it better low end and off boost throttle response if they are still intact.
Actually, I am planning on keeping both the VDI and Aux ports in the car.
But instead of them operating on the air pump, I will have a line from the manifold to operate them. VDI will still open at 5500 rpm while while the aux ports will open when ever the car is in P.I.M.P.
Does that sound good or would I be better off ripping everything off?
With the spacer moving the turbo outwards, will the aux actuators still fit??
I would assume it would give it better low end and off boost throttle response if they are still intact.
Actually, I am planning on keeping both the VDI and Aux ports in the car.
But instead of them operating on the air pump, I will have a line from the manifold to operate them. VDI will still open at 5500 rpm while while the aux ports will open when ever the car is in P.I.M.P.
Does that sound good or would I be better off ripping everything off?
#119
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Originally posted by pd_day
I got a question.
With the spacer moving the turbo outwards, will the aux actuators still fit??
I would assume it would give it better low end and off boost throttle response if they are still intact.
Actually, I am planning on keeping both the VDI and Aux ports in the car.
But instead of them operating on the air pump, I will have a line from the manifold to operate them. VDI will still open at 5500 rpm while while the aux ports will open when ever the car is in P.I.M.P.
Does that sound good or would I be better off ripping everything off?
I got a question.
With the spacer moving the turbo outwards, will the aux actuators still fit??
I would assume it would give it better low end and off boost throttle response if they are still intact.
Actually, I am planning on keeping both the VDI and Aux ports in the car.
But instead of them operating on the air pump, I will have a line from the manifold to operate them. VDI will still open at 5500 rpm while while the aux ports will open when ever the car is in P.I.M.P.
Does that sound good or would I be better off ripping everything off?
#120
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
Not quite sure if you're being serious or not, but coolants are on the side (banjo bolts), and oil is on the top and bottom.
Not quite sure if you're being serious or not, but coolants are on the side (banjo bolts), and oil is on the top and bottom.
#121
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Originally posted by pd_day
I got a question.
With the spacer moving the turbo outwards, will the aux actuators still fit??
I would assume it would give it better low end and off boost throttle response if they are still intact.
Actually, I am planning on keeping both the VDI and Aux ports in the car.
But instead of them operating on the air pump, I will have a line from the manifold to operate them. VDI will still open at 5500 rpm while while the aux ports will open when ever the car is in P.I.M.P.
Does that sound good or would I be better off ripping everything off?
I got a question.
With the spacer moving the turbo outwards, will the aux actuators still fit??
I would assume it would give it better low end and off boost throttle response if they are still intact.
Actually, I am planning on keeping both the VDI and Aux ports in the car.
But instead of them operating on the air pump, I will have a line from the manifold to operate them. VDI will still open at 5500 rpm while while the aux ports will open when ever the car is in P.I.M.P.
Does that sound good or would I be better off ripping everything off?
i'm thinking VDI would be totally useless with boost...
#124
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Originally posted by SonicRaT
Inlet is on the right side (closest to LIM), outlet on the left, (closest to pass fender), oil inlet is on the top, return on bottom.
Inlet is on the right side (closest to LIM), outlet on the left, (closest to pass fender), oil inlet is on the top, return on bottom.