akademiks

so i'm doing some self diagnostic on my FC
and i tested which engine codes are brought up with the pin connector

one of them that confuses me is similar to 73 (rear secondary injector) but is missing one flash

it goes

3 long flashes
3 long flashes
3 short flashes

the FSM for code 73 is 7 long flashes, and then 3 short flashes

is the FSM wrong, or do i have another problem in the system somewhere?

Kenteth

thats a 30, and a 33, not a 63 :P


EDIT: this is one of those times you wish you could delete a thread huh?

akademiks

really?

they go in sequence though

so i dont understand....

i'll check them out then

Kenteth

um... 30... 33... that would be in sequence

Its not 3 long, 3 long, 3 short

Its 3 long, 0 short, 3 long 3 short
30, 33.

EDIT:
30: Split air solenoid.
33: Port air solenoid valve.

Done.

akademiks

sweet thanks

Kenteth

What are your mods, a modified intake (emissions side) will throw those codes regulary and they aren't an issue. If your car is unmodded, those codes will probaby be resulting in your cat clogging up in about a month or two... Not to mention they may indicate bigger problems. Did you pull any other codes?

And put your car info (mainly year and trim) in your sig, makes it ten times easier for someone wanting to help you, easpeically if the help is series dependant (as CEL codes are.)

akademiks

my bad

i have an 89 gxl
unmodded

could it be that my cat is plugged up then? i have the solenoids out and they look alright...

Kenteth

I had to check your profile.

Those two CEL codes will be tripped if either the port air solenoid or air solenoid valves are either disconnected or shortted. IRRC the port air solenoid is the white solenoid on the vac rack. The port air valve, I believe is... i dunno, I'll have to look it up.

Anyhow, The solenoids are snugged between the oil fill tube and the alternator kinda. Just make sure those are all plugged in.

EDIT: NM, solenoids you are looking for are grey and blue.

akademiks

yup
those are fine

i'll going back out to plug in the port air and air solenoids, i'll check the vac rack though

Kenteth

Flow charts, yay. Not super helpful though. IMO if one of these were really to go bad, I'd rip out the entire emission system... but im in the middle of nowhere were they don't care if you spew toxic fumes into little birdies lungs...

EDIT: DAMN I was wrong. Ok, all the physical rats nest solenoids should be fine in that they didn't trip. What did was the ACV. And why they don't just say ACV is beyond me, woudl be much easier. check the attatchments

akademiks

yeah

i checked that out, i have that on my computer

although, where it says check continuity between solenoid valve and ECU...how is that possible?

Kenteth

Continuity means the wire isn't broken anywhere beteen the solenoid and the ECU.

no continuity means the wire is broken/shorted somewhere along the line.

akademiks

gotcha

alright, so i would need a voltmeter to test both out correct?

also, what is it referring to when the FSM says battery and signal side?

Kenteth

You wouldn't necessarily need a volt meter, but it would be ten times easier. Technicaly, a multimeter would be easier and you can use ohm-meter to check the continuity (or in the case of the meter-- resistance) much easier. Shoving 12volts into pins on the harness is a bad idea. The harness has a circuit which is a constant 5volts. If you short that 5 volts out to a sensor with a full 12v, you stand a good chance of blowing the sensor.

Where is "signal side" used in the FSM?

EDIT: nm, battery is the battery power to the ECU. Its saying, "check to make sure the ecu has power".

Signal side, is the sensor signal, which runs 12volts on some of the sensors/solenoids (mainly output) and 5 on the others (mainly input).

akademiks

under the self diagnostic function attachements you posted

when asking for continuity between solenoid valve and ECU, it asks for solenoid valve, battery side, and signal side

btw, i'm reading one of your older posts concerning the same engine codes, maybe i might find something

Kenteth

haha, I've been fighting engine codes for awhile. However keep in mind, I have completely removed emissions system and hence trip ever CEL solenoid code. Its not unlike my car to have 5 codes sitting waiting to be pulled. they are all expected though, as being modified.

akademiks

well, i'm still trying to figure this out
besides the continuity of the ecu and these solenoids

should i be checking anything else?

Kenteth

...hows driving the car?

EDIT: and rick james is dead bitch, and that saying was always stupid and overused.

anyhow, if the car drives fine the only thing you are in concern of is the catalytic converter. If its not getting enough o2, or too much, you'll kill it off... if its not already.

akademiks

alright, although i would like to look into this somehow....

EDIT: true, but i havent thought of anothet title yet

Kenteth

how about "my new title"

its 30 times better than rich james ****.

akademiks

i'll keep that in mind

Kenteth

much better title now, no complaints

WAYNE88N/A

I know you're trying to go by the FSM tests, and that's all well & good, but did you know you can check out every sensor (the ones that matter, anyway) from the ECU? Nice & easy, don't have to rip anything apart in the engine bay, AND you'll be checking the entire circuit, not just a sensor here, continuity there, etc... Try it ... ECU inputs are in a chart somewhere in your FSM (section 4A for the S4's).

If a sensor input voltage at the ECU is not what the FSM says it should be, THEN start start tearing apart connectors & such...