For the past month I've been trying to get a known good TPS sensor from local retailers. Each one has come up short on the WOT spec that the FSM lists as 5000 ohms. I've seen 4.6k 4k 4.5k... Never full 5k out of the box for WOT. Anyone know exactly what the ECU is looking for? My current tps goes to 4k and if I understand the fsm right, the car never see WOT and therefore never just gives the injectors everything it has for duration. If those numbers are good, great, I'll stop trying to get a good one.

 

The TPS plunger is fully extended when the rpm level reaches about 3500 or so, thus wot occurs at that point and any higher rpm. The ECU reads voltage from the TPS's Green/Red wire. W/the engine fully warmed up (20 -30 minute drive) and key to on the voltage on the G/R wire should read 1 volt at idle position and about 4.5 volts w/the plunger fully extended.

When reading the TPS using the ohm method the TPS needs to be unplugged to take the reading.

 

Yes, unplugged completely as in off the car for the ones from the local parts stores. The idle ones easy, but with a car that never sees WOT, even factory boost levels can be unsafe and lead to detonation. I will double check it using the voltage method tomorrow. But get the feeling that with the resistance reading not being in Spec, the voltage reading won't be either.

 

Ordered the last one in north america from Mazda. Least I know I should have a good part when it arrives.

Then to see if it takes care of all my issues or if it just takes care of one.

 

it doesn't work the way you think it does. on the Rx7 the TPS is fully extended by about 33% throttle opening, and thus couldn't do WOT even if it was part of the ecu program. the TPS runs the ACV, and decel, and is involved with the idle map, but that is about it.

i know there are zee Germans that like to have an idle switch, and a full throttle switch, but the Rx7 is not like that

 

Then perhaps thats where my thoughts are. (Master VW tech heh... German mind working on Old Jap car... Could still use the same theories on my honda when I had that though) It not seeing what I believe is WOT by a spec throwing all my fuel trims off under load/boost. Either way, its an issue that needs addressed. I will go back through and check my fuel pressures and make sure my FPR is still good. It just doesn't make since how one day it was doing fine on the wideband and then the next it wasn't. Sensor responds to rich and lean fine (No cat in car, wide band in own bung after factory o2)
So I logically I started going through the system. No boost leaks. No leaks after the AFM. Tried two replacement AFMs from Oriellys (Even though they and mine both read the same) The car won't run on any AFM other then the one that was in the car that I bought it with. Haven't tried a replacement OE. No one around me to swap them with either. This was the first thing that I found out of spec. Will double check fuel pressures after this is replaced to make sure my FPR is okay.

 

no, the MAJOR contributor to fuel injector pulsewidth is solely on the shoulders of the AFM and to a lesser extent the ECT(water temp on the back of the water pump) and that is all.

if the pulsewidth is fine, then low fuel pressure is next in line.

most people DON'T think they have air leaks, most people DO have air leaks.

 

put any TPS on the car, and open the throttle and watch the plunger extend, and see where the throttle position is when the TPS is maxed out.

 

I understand that, I've smoked the system with pressure and pressure tested the system, theres no leaks from the AFM back. Wish there was.

The AFM-- This one has actually flung itself apart internally once. The sweeping reostat bolt backed out of it, I sat it back to reading correctly per FSM specs before tightening the bolt down. I cant say much more about it then that. Looks like someone has also had the board out of it once as well considering someones poor soldering job putting the board back inside. I might end up doing resistance checks on the wiring for it next to try and figure out why it will run with one and not the other. (As in, will start run and drive on the one that was in the car when I bought it. Won't stay running on the ones I've tried replacing it with.)

The water sensor on the back of the water pump is new OEM less then 2 months, had a coolant leak and decided while I was there might as well replace the extremely old sensor too.



I understand what your saying as well. I am going off WOT based on the resistance reading based on FSM and AllData. Which the current one doesn't reach and why I keep thinking the car doesn't see WOT (or what the sensor equivalent of what it says to the ecu is WOT.)


I guess I need to reread the tech manual to understand better how the 7 reads its sensors and inputs and stop basing what I think should be based off newer cars.

 

reman AFMs are pure **** thrown into a box. funny that they still get $300 for them too.

never had a single one that worked right.

 

That's why after the second I didn't bother. Just made an attempt to make mine work correctly. Looks like that might be my issue and me trying to fix it was a lost cause

 

And the verdic is in. The vaf just bit the bullet. Found it coming apart again. This time its pissed off. Just my luck.