Whizbang

i may have the formula for a good relieble NA DD.

i have the parts to rebuild. on the "porting superguide" a post mentioned that you can increase efficency by porting the intake and exhaust specifically. its from his expericence but ill try it. Also, i have a cure for the coolant seals i am going to try. 18ga hookup wire for airplanes that does not melt. period. going to see how well it truely works but i know a guy whoes overheat a few times and is still fine.

also, if the money was there i would use ceramic seals, but i dont so instead going to use carbon seals, so if in the event they do break, the odds of the housing and rotor not shredding is higher.

more than likely ill do the waer jacket mod while i have everything everywhere.

thoughts.

owen is fat

interesting stuff... but I think I have done a great job of making my 7 a reliable DD and it has doubled the power output in the process... plus I didnt even do any mods to the motor yet...


good luck o your quest, its a road often traveled but also one that is commonly left before it reaches the sweetspots.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Mine is still stock, 16k miles driven and no problems yet (69k miles now) I guess it must be reliable.

Whizbang

yeah but i dont have the money for an LS1 swap and honestly, i dont know crap about working on a piston engine. plus i have so many spare FC rotary parts im set.

ill also see how well the coolant seals hold up too.

Whizbang

if the coolant seal replacement works well, this might be good. this was recommended to me and its likely to work out. if it does, well, good. we have cermaic apex seals which last forever, then coolant seals which last forever, now we just need apex seal springs and side seals that can do the same.

by forever, i mean honda engine long time

Syonyk

Hm. Interesting idea. Let us know how it works out! I'm not sure the coolant seal area needs a huge amount of work (the Rotary Aviation seals seem to be pretty solid), but something that could take a bit more abuse would always be welcome.

Honestly, though, I don't think the main area to focus on for a reliable DD is the engine core. There's a LOT of other stuff that can go wrong. Also, *most* engine core failures will still get you home. It's rare to break an engine badly enough to no longer run in normal driving. It takes a racetrack to do that.

Step 1: If it's likely to fail, replace it. Coolant lines, fuel lines, pulsation damper, vacuum lines, belts, water pump if it's really old, possibly the alternator. And, premix. Your engine will love you. It's *not* a big pain at the gas station.

Step 2: Regular maintenance. Oil changes, fuel filter, plugs, bleed the brakes, change the coolant every now and then.

Step 3: Carry tools & spares. The '7 has a remarkably redundant setup. Dual ignition systems (either of which will run the car well enough to get around), two independent rotors (you can blow one and still get home), 4 fuel injectors, multiple belts running the water pump and alternator, etc. Things you might want to keep in a bin: Fuel pump, fuses, spare alternator/water pump belt (the only *critical* one for sustained driving), and if you're really paranoid maybe a spare ECU & AFM. Also carry some water/antifreeze, a quart or two of oil, some brake fluid, and enough tools to do whatever you are likely to do on the side of the road. 10/12/14mm wrenches and sockets, plus a standard & phillips screwdriver suffice to do most non-major things.

Step 4: Regular replacement schedule. Don't wait for the coolant lines to fail, replace them BEFORE they fail. Same thing for the pulsation damper, fuel pump if you're worried about it, etc.

-=Russ=-

Whizbang

well ive removed the PD completely on all my sevens and i always premix.

owen is fat

really, just replace things that are aged...hoses, filters, clamps, pumps, anything with a bearing or mechanism that will fail. and I'd keep it stock too... my '87 Sport had over 189,000 miles on it before it died, thats close to honda longevity IMHO.