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Lower intake manifold 0-ring

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Old 12-27-17, 06:25 AM
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Lower intake manifold 0-ring

Coldest day of the year so far. Started up my car this morning and noticed smoke coming from under the hood while it was warming up.
Coolant leaking onto the turbo manifold and saw a pool of coolant up by the primary injectors.
I'm pretty sure it's the lower intake o-ring as there really isn't anywhere else it cld be leaking from.

I replaced both o-rings when I rebuilt the engine several months ago. I'm assuming either 1 was defective or, I didn't install correctly. Not looking forward to pulling the top and left side of the engine off in 5 degree weather.
Any tips (other than stay warm)?
Old 12-27-17, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by freq
Coldest day of the year so far. Started up my car this morning and noticed smoke coming from under the hood while it was warming up.
Coolant leaking onto the turbo manifold and saw a pool of coolant up by the primary injectors.
I'm pretty sure it's the lower intake o-ring as there really isn't anywhere else it cld be leaking from.

I replaced both o-rings when I rebuilt the engine several months ago. I'm assuming either 1 was defective or, I didn't install correctly. Not looking forward to pulling the top and left side of the engine off in 5 degree weather.
Any tips (other than stay warm)?
If you're seeing coolant pooling up by the primary injectors, the more likely source of your leak is the coolant line running from the rear iron to the throttle body, or the plumbing from the TB to the water pump housing. The LIM O-rings are physically lower on the block, so if it's leaking there, the coolant won't flow up against gravity to pool up by your primary injectors. If you have the mentioned rear iron to WP housing route (via TB & BAC valve) plugged, it could be a leaking plug.

Recommend getting a cooling system pressure test kit, pressurize system and see where its leaking from. Most auto parts stores (advance, auto zone, etc.) have these available for free rental (i.e., pay a deposit & get it back when you return the tool undamaged)

Last edited by Pete_89T2; 12-27-17 at 07:05 AM. Reason: extra info added.
Old 12-27-17, 07:51 AM
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shrugs, sounds like he's correct to me if the coolant is getting onto the turbo manifold as it would have to be leaking under the intake as well.
Old 12-27-17, 11:17 AM
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Pulled off the UIM and checked the coolant nipple on the rear iron(it's plugged). It's dry.
The only other areas the coolant cld be coming from up there is the coolant sensor area or maybe the thermostat housing-and both of those are dry as well.

So, it looks like I'm going to be spending several freezing hours pulling the left side of the engine apart.

Any suggestions for reinstall? I def don't want to have to do this again anytime soon so I want to get it right. I think I originally used some hylomar to keep the rings in place for re-assembly. Anyone use a different/better method?

Old 12-27-17, 01:52 PM
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could be the o-rings themselves and the material you got. i would try to find some viton o-rings to fit there, not just something you find that fits in the plumbing section from your local home improvement store.

i generally coat them with some grey silicone as well as the surrounding gasket on both sides. hylomar is sticky, but it doesn't stay or really seal against coolant pressure that well, it's mainly an assembly assistant and that is all.
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Old 12-27-17, 03:12 PM
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I'd still get a coolant system pressure tester on there to be 100% sure of where it's really pissing coolant from. Based on the picture, it could also be leaking from between the rotor housing & rear iron. No offense to the OP, but since he said he rebuilt the engine only a few months ago, a defective or improperly installed outer ring seal is a possibility to consider.
Old 12-27-17, 05:28 PM
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No point doing a pressure test..... I went though the same thing a last month. It is extremely unlikely and very unlucky IF the water gasket between the housing and the rear iron plate is gone. Usually if they go, its at the bottom of the motor and will leak water in your oil... I will bet any money that isn't the case.
If you cleaned all the water up, leave it and checked it the next day without the motor turning back on it will pool again..

It seems to be a fairly common issue, sometimes just over time they will leak, but most of the time its due to poor install - and pinch the o-ring when they are putting the LIM back on...

Here is what mine looked like...





As you can see that's no longer a o-ring... and you can tell they had issues putting on the LIM with the o-ring sitting there snug... so they put gasket gue on there... DO NOT DO THAT!!!!!!

As for tips, go buy new o-rings for about $7AUS each make sure you have cleaned the area up, and in the grove where they sit get a file and just get all the **** out of the groove.... making sure its clean.. the o-rings should just sit there nicely.. and when putting the LIM back on just be careful when you are doing it... get a light and check they haven't fallen..
It's a pretty simple job to do.. but if you still have the standard turbo it i think the turbo needs to come off before the LIM does... in my case, i was lucky i had enough clearance from my bigger turbo setup.....
Old 12-27-17, 09:55 PM
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I removed the o-rings entirely and blocked off those passages with 20mm?? freeze plugs. I rerouted the coolant from the rear iron nipple to my turbo.
Old 12-29-17, 12:58 AM
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I’ve tried using orings from an industrial supplier and they didn’t hold up. Think I went through pineapple or Atkins for one and it’s still holding up years later. Not a fun job but not that bad.... unless it’s 5degrees outside.
Old 01-01-18, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DR_Knight
I’ve tried using orings from an industrial supplier and they didn’t hold up. Think I went through pineapple or Atkins for one and it’s still holding up years later. Not a fun job but not that bad.... unless it’s 5degrees outside.
Did it a couple days ago. Was exactly 5 degrees outside :-(. But, since I had pulled the engine several months before, didn't have to wrestle with exhaust manifold nuts so was able to get everything pulled out while exhaust was still warm.
The o-rings did not look pinched. I put new o-rings in with gray sealant instead of hylomar. After install, ran it for a minute to see if any major leaks like before, then let it sit for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, started it up and let it idle for awhile. After all the moisture burnt off, seemed to be nice and leak-free. Gonna keep an eye on it over the next couple weeks.
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