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Koyo Radiator Bleeder/Drain Plug Conversion

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Old 09-26-19, 01:12 PM
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CA Koyo Radiator Bleeder/Drain Plug Conversion

Hi everyone,

So i'm in the process of setting up a 95-98 Nissan Quest electric fan for my S5 GXL. I'm currently using a Koyo N Flow Radiator with the stock fan shroud and clutch fan. The Mishimoto Fan Controller kit I plan on running has the option to set up a 1/8 NPT temperature sensor instead of the probe you stick into the radiator. I wanted to reach out to the community and see if anyone has used a conversion plug to fit a 1/8 NPT temperature sensor into the top bleeder/drain plug of the radiator (on top of the inlet). The Bleeder/Drain plug is a M10xP1.25. I reached out to Racing Beat and they said it would be possible if I can find the right adapter. Another option would bee to use a coolant hose adapter that accommodates a temperature sensor.


Another question is in terms of timing. Ideally what temperature should I adjust the fan controller to turn on the fan? 180 degrees? I know a lot a people would advocate to keep the oem clutch fan and shroud but I personally want the space.
Old 09-26-19, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Gabriel82
Ideally what temperature should I adjust the fan controller to turn on the fan? 180 degrees? .
Your thermostat is not fully open till @ 190°, so there's no point starting the fan before that.
Much will depend on the kind of driving you do and how efficient the fan/radiator combo is. If you spend a lot of time in stop & go traffic, you'll want the fan on fairly early to avoid heat soak.
If you're moving a lot, the fan can come on later because airflow will be helping you.

My fan comes on at 205° and goes off at 195°(low speed, high speed almost never comes on at all).
This covers basic city driving, but no rush hour nonsense.
On the highway the fan never comes on at all.

Last edited by clokker; 09-26-19 at 01:48 PM.
Old 09-26-19, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by clokker
Your thermostat is not fully open till @ 190°, so there's no point starting the fan before that.
Much will depend on the kind of driving you do and how efficient the fan/radiator combo is. If you spend a lot of time in stop & go traffic, you'll want the fan on fairly early to avoid heat soak.
If you're moving a lot, the fan can come on later because airflow will be helping you.

My fan comes on at 205° and goes off at 195°(low speed, high speed almost never comes on at all).
This covers basic city driving, but no rush hour nonsense.
On the highway the fan never comes on at all.
I normally drive it on the track and autoX. AutoX more frequently and I see temps rise a little while I wait in the grid. The only other driving is on the freeway to cruise and get coffee.
Old 09-26-19, 02:38 PM
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I have a Koyo N-flow on my S5T2, and it looks to me that if you mount the sensor in the bleeder plug hole the sensor will be sitting in an air pocket at the high spot (that's why the bleeder plug is there) and won't be immersed in any coolant until the thermostat is fully opened and you have full flow thru the upper radiator hose.

As for temperature settings, I'm running an AEM Infinity ECU and I have it set to turn on the fan at 190, off at 183. Seems to work well in my setup; 90*F+ days stuck in traffic it stays just below 195*F. As long as the car's moving, temps range between 178~190, depending on ambient air temps.
Old 09-26-19, 05:11 PM
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I always recommend people get a water pump housing out of an automatic (with the extra temp sensor) then just use that to trigger the fan. Thats what i did on my manual race car and it works perfectly, even with an old sensor. Turns on at 185 and off at 180.
Old 09-27-19, 07:39 AM
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tap the water pump housing, you can also weld a bung to the radiator or water pump housing
sounds like you want a simpler solution so why not just get a bung and have it welded onto the radiator down low where it will be submerged
Old 09-27-19, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete_89T2
I have a Koyo N-flow on my S5T2, and it looks to me that if you mount the sensor in the bleeder plug hole the sensor will be sitting in an air pocket at the high spot (that's why the bleeder plug is there) and won't be immersed in any coolant until the thermostat is fully opened and you have full flow thru the upper radiator hose.

As for temperature settings, I'm running an AEM Infinity ECU and I have it set to turn on the fan at 190, off at 183. Seems to work well in my setup; 90*F+ days stuck in traffic it stays just below 195*F. As long as the car's moving, temps range between 178~190, depending on ambient air temps.
Thanks for the input, that's something that didn't cross my mind. I already have one hole drilled into my water pump housing for my Defi temp sensor and the existing hole for my OEM temp sensor. Would it be safe to just have the fan kick on a little earlier at 185° if I'm using a Greddy Coolant Temp Sensor Adapter?


Currently my car stays at 180° give or take +2 degrees. It's only when I'm pushing the car that it passes 200°.
Old 09-27-19, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Gabriel82
Thanks for the input, that's something that didn't cross my mind. I already have one hole drilled into my water pump housing for my Defi temp sensor and the existing hole for my OEM temp sensor. Would it be safe to just have the fan kick on a little earlier at 185° if I'm using a Greddy Coolant Temp Sensor Adapter?


Currently my car stays at 180° give or take +2 degrees. It's only when I'm pushing the car that it passes 200°.
Yes, it will be safe to have the fan come up earlier. I believe I have mine kicking in 165F, however it is controlled by duty cycles, so its not a full on @ 165f. If memory serves me correct, my setup starts at 165F and reaches full duty cycle at 195f.
Old 09-27-19, 02:20 PM
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If your temp is rising above 200 with the N-flow radiator you need to work on some ducting....
Old 09-27-19, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RockLobster
If your temp is rising above 200 with the N-flow radiator you need to work on some ducting....
People often quote temperatures as thresholds for safety, but rarely specify what location that temperature should be acquired. 200F at the thermostat housing is totally normal; after passing through the radiator...not so much. I'm not saying you're stating otherwise, so please don't think that is directed at you!
Old 09-29-19, 08:14 PM
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Agreed. That's a good point. 200deg on the upper hose isn't terrible which is likely where his greddy adapter is plumbed in. I generally have my temp sensor for gauges/logging in the stock location (rear iron) above 200 there is starting to push it. 220 and you're going to melt water seals.
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