therotaryrocket

I made a thread last time "value of S4 TII", anyways I went and talked to the guy selling his black 1987 Mazda RX-7 Turbo 2. Not a dent or barely a scratch on it, and the interior is almost as equal. I took the battery out of my 1985 Mazda RX-7 GS and put it in the T2 and all the electrical equipment worked, pwr windws, dr locks, headlights, instrument panel, radio, moonroof, external lights and everything. It's a complete car and all, needs tires, clutch, muffler, brake pads, and a battery, and it's been sitting for 5 years so i'm not going to start it untill I prime the oil system. I did however bump the starter to make sure the engine wasn't locked. I didn't see any obvious rust but didn't look under the car because the tires were almost flat which made the car to low to put the jack under it. He told me it was a done deal and the car was mine for $500. I'm gonna go get my money Monday and get the car to my house somehow, I think i'll rent a hitch or something. I do have a few concerns, whenever the key is in the "on" position the shift up light is lit. It has abs, I hope that doesn't pose a problem in the future, could I bypass it if needed? The mufflers kinda fell apart or something and the tips are non-existent. What does it do to the engine and all to sit for 5 years, I know it needs new gas, oil, and tune-up probably. I fixed my FB after sitting for 6 years. And anybody got a low-milage clutch still working? I'm not about to pay $260 for a new clutch, not enough money yet. Anybody want to buy my 85 GS, it has a lot of problems but none mechanically and runs excellent for a 12a. Oh yeah and the shifter was super sloppy, but it did go into every gear smooth....shifter bushings? Thanks

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

$500 is not a bad price....i paid $850 for a 1989 turbo II with 65,000 miles and sold it for $4,000

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like a good find. My TII sat OUTSIDE for 2 years in Kentucky and ran like crap when I bought it, but after driving the hell out of it for about 2 weeks it ran great. If the motor starts up and idles on its own, maybe she'll just need some lovin' (Along with oil, plugs, air/fuel filters, etc.)

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would start with the basics: fluids changed, oil and filter change, coolant change, etc...


after you get new oil in the engine you should remove the leading plugs you should add a few drops of engine oil to each rotor housing through the plug holes and crank the engine by hand for a few minutes with a ratchet on the front hub bolt. after that install the old plugs if you believe they are still in working order and look ok, remove the EGI fuse and crank the engine in bursts of 5 seconds or so about 5 times to prime the oil system.

install the EGI fuse back in disconnect the leading and trailing coil connectors and crank the engine for 5 seconds (this will prime the fuel system) while having an assistant watch for any fuel leaks at the back passenger side of the block and at the pressure and return hoses in the driver's side of the engine bay. if there is no fluid leaks you can try firing the engine, reconnect the leading and trailing coil connectors and try cranking the engine while an assistant watches for any fluid leaks.

hopefully the engine will fire at this point, you can continue to try lapping in the seals with engine oil or ATF but keep in mind not to let the ATF sit in the engine for extended periods of time without cranking the engine to remove it.

therotaryrocket

when I put oil in the leading plug holes should i use the marvel mystery MMM oil? I heard that stuff was the best for this stuff, plugs look a lot harder to get to with powersteering and air-conditioning. Man, i'm so excited....anybody got a clutch?
BTW thanks for the input guys

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you could use either MMO, ATF or engine oil. engine oil is the thickest of the three and will protect the best while getting the seals to lap back into the rotor housings but it is hard on combustion and fouls the plugs rather easily.

therotaryrocket

no problem i'm sure i will replace the plugs after its running pretty good. But what about the quarter tank of 5 year old fuel? It's probably all jelly like and I don't want to ruin the pump or fuel injectors or anything by pumping that. If I drain the tank and put new fuel in should I be good on that, or do I need to clean the lines...i figured after a couple months the fuel lines would drain back into the tank. thnx

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would clean the tank out as best you can, either by dropping it or by removing the fuel pump and cleaning it out in the vehicle also check the sock on the pump.

the fuel in the lines should have drained back/evaporated but if there was anything in there it might be a good idea to blow them out with compressed air(while disconnected from the engine rails), you should also replace the fuel filter as well with all the other maintenance items.

alwayssideways

the tank isnt that hard to remove as long as the gas is nearly gone. when i bought my NA the guy let the car sit in his yard for 2 years and i dont know why but the gas cap wasnt on the filler tube. well when i opened the tank i had what looked like fish eggs, but really rustparticles . the gas was pretty much watered down .. but i think once i had the car in the air . i had the tank down in a bout 15 minutes maybe less. but since it sat for so long . i wouldnt even risk it .. drain the thing completly ,, clean it , and work from there .. also do like everyone else said ,, fluids, also the fuel filter ,, probobly rusted and clogged after 5 years.. but basic tune up parts and some TLC will make a T2 happy ,,,, again ! heheheh

therotaryrocket

well how exactly do I clean the tank itself, i know i can take it out no problem. Should I use mineral spirits(too weak?), acetone?, toluene?. I've heard of putting a clean stainless steel chain in the tank and agitate the tank to lossen up the "rust" and jelly gas. thnx

Kingofl337

My car sat for 2-3 years and I just used the fuel pump to empty the tank. I also replaced the fuel filter and had the injectors cleaned.

Also something to note. All of my brake hardware upfront and master brake cylinder needed to be replaced from sitting.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it all depends on what you find in the tank, i wouldn't try putting anything inside the tank unless it absolutely needs the treatment, some tanks have liners or a metal treatment to protect against rusting out. best case, you could add some alcohol or carburetor cleaner to the tank and wipe it out with a rag if you can get to all the spots by hand, worst case would be the tank is unusable or rusted out to the point that it would need to be cleaned thoroughly and a fuel tank sealer added to it. the tanks aren't all that tough to find so if it is that far gone i'm sure you should have no trouble finding a replacement in decent condition.

usmcjsy

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a good find!

MarkPerez

when a car sits for years the gas turns to crap. clean the tank, fuel pump the entire fuel system front to back. the rubber in the brake/clutch masters goes too rebuild both masters. any chain works well to clear out the gas tank remove the pump first
and fuel level sender. purple power de-greaser works okay just get all of it out and let the tank dry for a day or two