Madrx7racer

Well, I guess I didn't **** up too badly....I misground something when I did the install, my problem lies in the battery relocation kit....I took it to a family friends shop but he cannot do the job because he does not know the RX7 electrical system, the shop next to his want 1K to start my car....so now I am taking it to my Mom's house and I plan to retrace my steps and figure out where I messed up. According to my mechanic friend there is no power going to the coils at all. Thank you SILKWORM for letting me borrow your RX7 WORKSHOP manual....I will return it as soon as my copy gets here. So far I have read the engine electrical, and body electrical, but I still need to figure out the wiring diagram....any help would be greatly appreciated....I g uess this is the best way to learn my electrical system.....

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

so i take it that it turns over and you are getting fuel.

the only thing your not getting is spark then?

Now this a s4 or s5 block swap? A turbo add on?

what wiring did you do? and which harnesses?

how did you know it was the battery relocation.

If you mis grounded something have you checked all the fuses?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I cant see how battery relocation relates to coil power. You either get power in the car, or you don't (as far as the battery). IF you'd screwed up the battery wiring, you wouldnt have any juice at all..

All you really have to do is ground the battery to chassis bare metal in the back, cut off the - battery terminal, and ground that wire to chassis bare metal up front. Then run a 4 gauge wire from the + battery terminal up front, cut off the + battery terminal, and connect the new + wire with the old + wire(s). IT's not that hard...

Madrx7racer

the car turns and I am getting fuel.....I have juice everywhere else in the car....my guess is that when I relocated the battery i misgrounded something or that the wire that feeds the coils off the battery(goes through the main relay) is not connected right or at all. I am looking at the wiring diagram right now.....the black/yellow might be wrong or not connected. I can probably make more sense if I look in the car.....I have to check all this wiring. I say that the relocation kit might have something to do with it because we had run a new live wire and a mistake may have been made somwhere. I will take pics to show you what I mean.....it is hard for me to explain without looking at the problem myself( I am at work). Pics later

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I dont believe you read a word of what I just said. There are only 3 power wires to the battery. ONe is ground, 2 are positive. These went to the stock battery terminals. IF you connect those wires back to power, then the car doesnt know you have changed anything. You have another problem, unrelated to the battery.

IF it'll make you feel better, put the stinkin' battery back up front until you figure it out.

Coils get their ground through the chassis, not a wire.

Madrx7racer

i know about the chassis ground......the problem is in the live wire..... I think pics will clarify what I am thinking...... from what I remember: live wire goes to starter, from starter to the 100A fuse......again that is off the top of my head....I have to take another look at it sometime this weekend. Bear with me for a sec, I am seriously trying to figure this out...thanks for the imput though.

NA2TurboProject

I wanna see those pix

WAYNE88N/A

You forgot about the other main ground, Kevin, at the left strut tower (hidden under all the tape)...This spot is actually the FIRST ground from the (normal location) battery- not the starter location...BTW, I mentioned this yesterday, maybe a lot of guys didn't read it, but if you're relocating the battery, and you run the neg cable straight to ground near the new batt, you SHOULD beef up the engine -to-firewall ground, since that is where your starter is gonna get its juice now...

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Let me clarify this once more, everyone seems to have a different mental picture than I do, or something.

You start off with a bone stock car. You have a battery up front, with + and - terminals. The + terminal has 2 wires...a large one which goes straight to the starter, and a small one. The small one feeds the main fuse in the enginebay fusebox, and the alternator. The ground wire goes straight to the transmission bellhousing, and is clamped onto the drivers strut tower along the way.

Now, say you take out the battery, and cut off the battery terminals, leaving 3 wires...2 +, 1 ground. You dont disturb anything else. Put your battery in back, ground it there, and run your battery + wire up front.

IF you connect this new battery + wire to the old 2 battery + wires, you have just completed the circuit again, like stock. You've removed a battery terminal, and run a long wire in it's place, to a new terminal on the battery in the back. That's all, nothing else. IF you ground the battery to the chassis in the back, it is automatically grounded everything up front, because the stock ground wire is also grounded to the chassis up front. Just for the hell of it, you should re-ground the main battery - wire, that you cut the terminal off of, to the chassis once more, for a good strong ground.

That is all. There are other, cleaner ways to do a relocation wireup, but that is the simplest, and the one that will result in the least amount of headaches.

Can someone explain to me what relocation has to do with the coils?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

nothing

if the car turns over he has what he needs to start the car.

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

Your saying you have power to the fuse block and the starter right? And you have a good ground? If so it sounds like the coils or ignitors is fried.

Madrx7racer

yes, the motor turns, but there is no spark...... Like Kevin said there were two wires that were positive......but instead of connecting the new cable with the old one my friend ran it straight into the starter and then spliced it to go into the 100A fuse. I thought that the problem was when he spliced and ran it into the the 100A fuse, but i guess I could be wrong in assuming it had anything to do with the battery relocator. Can I use any other N/A coils? I might head to the Junkyard if I can......Mazdatrix sells them for 400+bux(a tad to rich for me).

Kevin: Thank you for your help and patience.....and everyone thanks for the good info. I will let you all know what happens. Again Thanks.
Hassell

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

So there is a wire running from the battery, to the fuze and then to the starter.

The fuze box has been completly cut from the circuit??
No wonder its not starting. You coils probably dont have enought power, if any at all.

Can you un do what your friend did and then just set it up how it was???

Madrx7racer

Imma try it this weekend....I'll keep you posted.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

MadRx7Racer - I'm going to have to side with Kevin on this one I was having a helluva time getting my rebuild to start, It would just spin, and inject gas, no spark... mine turned out to be a fuse. . Somewhere along the way, the second fuse from the top (EGI Main?) in the 6 fuse box in the engine bay got blown. . It was a hairline crack, it left me searching for about a week and a half... damn thing! Maybe check continuity on it? Here's how to tell if it's that.. pull two or more plugs out of the car, set them on the throttle body, and when you crank the car, you'll get one spark through them, all at the same time, and then nothing. if you stop trying to start the car, then you'll get one spark again, and then nothing for as long as you crank it.

There's definatly a chance you blew it somehow (like I must have) during playing with the electrical system.. Try that, it only takes a few minutes

Madrx7racer

it turns out that the MAIN RELAY was missing.......replaced it and it started right up........only thing is that it won't hold an idle.....I will install the exhaust to see if it's because there is no O2 sensor......I will post results soon.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

An o2 sensor won't stop it from idling. Vac leaks, will however.

Madrx7racer

ah....ok, I will go over my vaccuum lines too.