t2 boost brotha

Hey I was just tring to find a intake for my 87 turbo but I having a hard time finding 1 to replace the factory 1 is there a web site. Help me guys thanks

alex91n/a

iTrader: (2)

just go on google and type in intake for rx7 they are lots of company's like apexi, kn, hks, weapon r, and greddy, just depends on how much you want to spend

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

Go with the apexi power intake. They're for 89-91 RX7. All you need to make it fit on your s4 is a 70mm universal kit from apexi, and an hks adapter for 86-88. I heard about this setup and I have all the parts on the way and hopefully it works. The apexi is by far the best intake so it should be worth it. I like the looks of it alot more too.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

I just got the K&N setup that Racing Beat sells and it is very sweet. The stock BOV vented to the atmosphere sounds great too.
http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Just changing the filter isn't really going to do much of anything. The real benefit comes from removing the restrictive plastic TID and replacing it with a short 45* angled tube. I don't know if anyone sells these, but most people make their own. I made mine out of an ebay honda kit (for the pipe), a 1/4" NPT fitting for the PCV tube & a piece of 13/16" pipe welded on for the BOV hose. I also made an aluminum box to seal off the filter from the engine bay. Thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/diy-cold-air-box-830116/. Open filters will suck in hot air that can be 50+ degrees hotter than ambient temps. There's a thread somewhere w/ data Hailers captured showing something like 130 degree inlet temps w/ an open filter during light cruising.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

I recently changed just my filter and noticed quite a bit actually. I then made a 3" TID and I would say it helped a little more as well. I do like the aesthetic appeal of your setup RotaryRocket88, but I wouldn't say that it "seals" off the filter from the engine bay entirely. I would imagine it does help some though. I think a headlight vent with your setup would work about as good as possible without majorly rerouting the intake.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

If you're running an open filter you can run a duct from above the brake ducts to the filter. I used some dryer ducting from a hardware store probably 3" diameter.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Unless your boost pattern changed (as mine did), anything else is just your butt dyno lying. They do that a lot. And if you bothered to read my thread, you'd find that my box DOES get sealed off due to the use of foam tape under the gaps (more since the build picture) and on the underside of the hood. My intake temps have always logged very close to ambient temperature, unlike those with a hot air intake. My air comes from the bumper area before the radiator, same as stock.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it could have been my butt dyno acting up, but I thought it felt different. Post up a log of your intake temps if you would. I would like to compare yours to mine. I read through your thread and I just missed the additional sealing. Is your turbo heatwrapped or are you just using stock heatshields? I will ammend my prior statement by saying it will make a difference until it gets heatsoaked.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

It's hard to post a single image for the whole log, but I attached a pic. It's only 1 data point, but you can see the gold colored line is basically flat the whole time. The temperatures are in Celsius, so they are 69F at the AFM and 109F after the intercooler. This was logged during a highway run in the middle of the day (5/31/09), but I can't recall what the ambient temp was. It's southern CA though, so it was probably somewhere around 70 degrees.

As for heatsoak, the temperatures stay nice and low during cruising, but can increase if I'm stuck in traffic/at lights, etc... for a long time. I don't know if this is due to the AFM heatsoaking or the box itself. If it's the AFM, it would happen on a stock intake setup too. Maybe I'll put it all back in and test one day. I still want to add some sort of reflective heat shielding material to see if that helps, but in the meantime, I'm happy with the results.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

You can upload the .PDB file if you want. I have PLViewer. What about if you go for a hard run, does it heatsoak quite a bit too. I find if I go for a hard run everything gets hot. I really want to heatwrap everything.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

I haven't seen the AFM temps increase much when I'm hard on it. The section of the log I posted is me going from a dead stop to ~75 mph in the span of about 10 seconds, so it was under fairly hard acceleration. You can see the boost peaks and the RPMs drop from 1st gear on up to 5th. I have others where I was at WOT showing the same thing. AITs increase as the turbo is pushed harder, but the air coming in at the AFM stays the same temperature. And afterwards it usually stays the same or increases by only a few degrees.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Cool thanks. I will take a run and log it tomorrow. Then I will post it up to compare.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Here are two logs from today. The first one was about the same length as yours with similar driving under cruising conditions. The AFM temps stayed relatively the same. The second run is after driving for a while then taking it on a hard 2nd-4th run. The temps are significantly higher, but I didn't have another hard run from you to compare it to. The temps also cool back down pretty quickly. Freeway cruising my AFM temp is ~90 degrees with ambient temps at about 75. If your AFM & intake temps stay roughly the same as the log you posted when you are driving hard then I am definitely convinced that it helps a lot. Maybe you could post a hard run log to compare.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Your cruising log does look fairly similar, but also note that I went into boost a lot more in my log. Not quite as hard as your second log, but still pretty spirited. The thing that stands out most to me from your second log is how quickly the IATs increase. You went from 89F to 154F in about 16 seconds worth of hard acceleration, with an AFM temp starting at 88F. For one, I've never seen my IATs climb that quickly, and the highest temperature I've seen to date was 146F & that was with AFM temps over 100F (hot day). This includes runs where I've had the boost as high as 14 psi.

Then you've also got the AFM temp increasing by ~7F by the end of that pull, which as I mentioned, doesn't seem to happen for me. Typically it's a 0-3F change, even after some WOT runs to collect AFR data. I'll be away from my palm's dock & the computer with all the logs until the end of the week, but I'll post some more for you to campare then.

Also, what is your exact setup? Open cone filter attached to the stock TID & the stock fan shroud in place? Do you have the stock intake snorkel in place still? I would imagine the shoud and snorkel would do a better job of limiting AFM temps than say an e-fan setup w/out the snorkel.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

I have a 3" TID attached to the AFM which is attached to my K&N filter setup. Stock fan shroud in place still, but no snorkel. I think part of the reason that my IAT's skyrocket like that is that I don't have my inner heatshield in place. I just need to take it all off and wrap it crazy with heatwrap and make a nice box like yours with a headlight vent duct. I think that would keep things under control. It would also help to get my front mount on.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

As promised, here's a log with an all-out 1st through 4th pull. Before the run the car sat for about an hour after a drive, so everything in the engine bay was a little heatsoaked. You can see the AFM temps drop throughout the log, but more importantly, they even drop while I'm under hard acceleration.

At the start of the pull, AFM temps are 33.125C (92F), and by the end they're 31.25C (88F). So they actually dropped 4*F even though the turbo was heating everything up in the bay.

And I take back what I said about your AITs increasing a lot faster/higher than mine. While yours did get about 8* F higher, mine didn't exactly go up slowly in this log. Start to finish, they go up 41*F in 11 seconds or so. And I guess the previous time I had seen 146*F (63.125C) wasn't the only time they'd gotten this high. I don't remember the exact ambient temp during this log, but it was probably around 80F.

Also, I have heatshields on the turbine housing, but not on the manifold. And my intake manifold is painted with a high-temp ceramic paint, that may or may not reflect some heat.

freemanrx7

You should wrap your manifold and then do more tests. Nice info your putting up and soon enough I'll try your heatsheild design.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Some wrap wouldn't hurt. The only reason I don't have the manifold shield on is because the S4 one I had wouldn't fit on an S5 exhaust manifold. And the main thing I'll change to drop AITs eventually will be converting to a hybrid turbo with a better thermal efficiency.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

Very interesting. Thanks for posting it up. I am going to swap my turbo for the S5 I have this next week and also heat wrap the whole setup. Then I will post another log.

Also what are you using for boost control? Your boost looks smoother than mine. Or is that just the S5 turbo's better design?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The boost controller is a simple ball-and-spring MBC, so the wastegate stays fully closed 90% of the time. Also, if you don't have an "orifice" in your boost sensor's line, that will smooth out the boost signal. That last run was with a ~9psi peak setting.