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Hello everybody, I'm very new, and this is my first post, I have a 1988 rx-7 convertible, and with everything stock as far as I know. My clutch has been acting really weird and I need advise on it. The clutch on my car was working fine, perfectly even, and my dad noticed that my clutch fluid hasn't been changed in a long time due to the color. So he and I bled the car and put new fluid in. but now my clutch pedal doesn't have any pressure when I push down on it. Right up until I have about an inch of space, then it activates.
the pedal is this close to the wall and i still can't change gears. Also when I do change gears, my pedal wants to stay way down by the wall. Sometimes I can't even put my car in reverse, the clutch just won't let me.
I don't know if its mechanical or where to start to check such things,
I've checked to see if I put the wrong fluid in but it was the right one. DOT 3, right?
Anyway, I'm sorry that I can't explain things well and thank you
I’d rebleed it again. And might be able to adjust under the dash to get more pedal. If it was fine before you messed with it, I would look to what you did first.
I agree with ATC529R. Sounds like maybe you got some air into the system while bleeding.
My preferred way of bleeding the clutch is with a helper. Put a tube on the bleeder valve and direct it into a container. Have a friend sit in the car with their foot on the pedal. Crack the bleed screw open and ask them to push the pedal down and hold. Then close the bleed screw and ask them to lift their foot. Repeat until there are no bubbles, then a few more times. Don't let the master cylinder reservoir run low during this test or it can suck in air and require you to restart.
There is an adjustment for the pedal, but that is the very last step only if you're sure that it is all the way bled.
I also agree on bleeding the clutch hydraulics again. You likely have a small air pocket in the system that's causing the issue. Air pockets are easily trapped in the system and can sometimes be frustrating to get out.
One thing I found out is that a SpeedBleeder makes the job a breeze, especially when help is unavailable. It's basically a Bleeder Screw with a Check Valve in it so fluid can come out, but air can't get back in.
Loosen it, pump the pedal a few times, refill the reservoir and repeat until clean, clear fluid and no more air comes out. The correct thread size is M7x1.0, but please be aware that some aftermarket slave cylinders are M8x1.0. My guess is that the housing was stripped at some point, then re-tapped and sold again as "new". Either way, measure your original bleeder screw first before running down to the parts store.
Link: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...rew/mtm0/12708
Also, depending on how long the fluid was in there, your Slave Cylinder may be failing. Brake Fluid absorbs moisture over time, which can make the Slave Cylinder rust internally. The most common sign of this is having to "pump it up" to get it in gear. If it is actually failing, it is generally a good idea to replace the Master Cylinder at the same time. The reason for this is that if the Slave Cylinder is failing, the restored hydraulic pressure will find any weakness in the system and it is almost always the old Master Cylinder due to age/use/pressure.
But before you worry about that, go get a speedbleeder and see if the clutch will bleed properly first.
I agree with ATC529R. Sounds like maybe you got some air into the system while bleeding.
My preferred way of bleeding the clutch is with a helper. Put a tube on the bleeder valve and direct it into a container. Have a friend sit in the car with their foot on the pedal. Crack the bleed screw open and ask them to push the pedal down and hold. Then close the bleed screw and ask them to lift their foot. Repeat until there are no bubbles, then a few more times. Don't let the master cylinder reservoir run low during this test or it can suck in air and require you to restart.
There is an adjustment for the pedal, but that is the very last step only if you're sure that it is all the way bled.
yup. I have had several brake bleed tools. Not knocking them, but nothing can replace the proper 2 person pump, hold, bleed technique…..sometimes done many times because the person didn’t tighten the bleed valve before the other person let there foot up. It’s like a dance. Let the person with the wrench on the bleed screw lead. Pump, pump, pump etc….till the pedal is SOLID, then release the bleed valve. Tell the person pumping to pump it till it has a full pedal, as much as you can get, and for them to tell you when they reach max pedal. They then say hold, you release the valve and fluid, and AFTER you re tighten valve ( no need to torque it lol), tell the person in the seat to do it again. Until the person in the seat tells you you have a decent pedal. You almost have to mess it up before you realize how to do it.
My prob with speed bleeders is getting the right fit hose combined with the wrench leaving room to cover the bleeder. Maybe it’s just me and my harbor freight bleeder. My kid/friend/wife is free and it always works.
I agree with ATC529R. Sounds like maybe you got some air into the system while bleeding.
My preferred way of bleeding the clutch is with a helper. Put a tube on the bleeder valve and direct it into a container. Have a friend sit in the car with their foot on the pedal. Crack the bleed screw open and ask them to push the pedal down and hold. Then close the bleed screw and ask them to lift their foot. Repeat until there are no bubbles, then a few more times. Don't let the master cylinder reservoir run low during this test or it can suck in air and require you to restart.
There is an adjustment for the pedal, but that is the very last step only if you're sure that it is all the way bled.
agree with all but this
”Have a friend sit in the car with their foot on the pedal. Crack the bleed screw open and ask them to push the pedal down and hold.”
the bleed screw should be close/ no fluid can come out
then tell them to pump. Depending on the air in the system (brakes would take more pumps but still)….the pumper might have to pump it 10, 20, 50 times to get pressure. When you release the valve you will hear the spurting air for all but the last bit. So that’s why sometimes you may have to start with 10 or 20 pumps until you get it to one pump and full pedal. Which means no air.
and like he said on the reservoir and fluid. Whatch the heck out of it. If you look and it does not have fluid you ALWAYS have to start over. Only question is how much air did you suck into it lol.
One thing I found out is that a SpeedBleeder makes the job a breeze, especially when help is unavailable. It's basically a Bleeder Screw with a Check Valve in it so fluid can come out, but air can't get back in.
Loosen it, pump the pedal a few times, refill the reservoir and repeat until clean, clear fluid and no more air comes out. The correct thread size is M7x1.0, but please be aware that some aftermarket slave cylinders are M8x1.0. My guess is that the housing was stripped at some point, then re-tapped and sold again as "new". Either way, measure your original bleeder screw first before running down to the parts store.
Link: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...rew/mtm0/12708
Also, depending on how long the fluid was in there, your Slave Cylinder may be failing. Brake Fluid absorbs moisture over time, which can make the Slave Cylinder rust internally. The most common sign of this is having to "pump it up" to get it in gear. If it is actually failing, it is generally a good idea to replace the Master Cylinder at the same time. The reason for this is that if the Slave Cylinder is failing, the restored hydraulic pressure will find any weakness in the system and it is almost always the old Master Cylinder due to age/use/pressure.
But before you worry about that, go get a speedbleeder and see if the clutch will bleed properly first.
great input. But you’re talking algebra, and he is in 5th grade. No offense to him/her
great input. But you’re talking algebra, and he is in 5th grade. No offense to him/her
Except that it's not. This is a teachable moment. I had the exact same scenario happen when I was still pretty green (2010-ish?), so I understand the frustration firsthand when you're stuck in a parking lot with zero help and Autozone won't have the proper parts for a few days. Fortunately, I was about 1 mile from home and timed each light so I didn't have to stop.
Anyway, my explanation removes any possibility is error in bleeding the system using a method I personally have proven to work reliably (2013). And should the clutch pedal still act funny despite this, I anticipated the next question based on that one instance in Autozone's parking lot. Let us not forget that ALL of us were newbs once. Fewer variables makes for easier learning, a more enjoyable experience and such tends to yield more interest in the subject.
For this matter, the only possible causes are Bleed Technique first (most likely scenario) or Hydraulic Failure second (slave cylinder, master cylinder and the lines between them).
Plus, I was doing algebra in 5th grade in the mid 90s...
I use the cheezy "One Man Bleeder" kit found at AutoZone. The trick is to have the hose and bottle higher than the bleeder valve to keep bubbles from reverting back in. Never had a problem.
07-04-22, 03:36 AM
Inexperienced Teenager needs Help With Clutch
