Since you don't have a gauge you can remove the hose after the fuel filter as it connects to the hard line instead.

 

i got it off though, fuel pump works

 

so we know what isnt wrong with the car, whats next to check?

 

Read through the post by "Phearthe-Rx7" an apply it to your situation. You might want to aid in the compression of the engine at start up via adding a teaspoon of motor oil to the lower plug hole (leading) on each rotor.

 

what kind of motor oil? also i've heard of adding ATF to it instead of motor oil

 

Same kind that you would put in your car.

 

okay i didnt know if there was a different kind or not

 

i tried jumping it this morning and doing that but it didnt work, im gonna try again then take out the spark plugs and do the oil thing

 

I think this car has an electrical system fault, the tach spiked from voltage.
Haven't seen it mentioned but I assume that all the fuses have been checked by now?

Uncover the ECU and check the connectors/wiring.

 

spark plugs are fouled up the ***. and have a heavy gas smell. im going to post a pic, isnt that a sign of heavy flooding?

 

let me know what you think, i pulled out two plugs already and both are black and smell like fuel

 

Light tan or grey color is good. The black that you have is not. I believe the black can occur from a very rich fuel mixture and or perhaps incorrect plugs such as ones which are too cold and also a possibly a weak ignition system. Looks like new plugs are in order.

 

on thursday when I took them out they were tan, today they are black so does that have to do with the flooding though?

 

Likely, but when plugs become soaked they may need to be replaced. You'll need the opinions of others on this board to make that determination unless you don't mind spending the dough for new plugs.

 

i need new plugs regardless at this point, what plugs should i get becuse autozone (where i work) doesnt carry the plugs, advanced doesnt carry them and pep boys dont carry them

 

If you do mostly city driving and your car is basically stock and not a turbo, which I know it isn't, then you should likely get Bur6eq and 8eq's as opposed to 7 and 9's. Of course someone's going to disagree but the others are for turbos or highly modified engines or mainly highway driving from what I understand.

 

man im having a hard time getting the rear plugs out

 

anyone know of an easy way to remove those back in the second rotor? it's really pissing me off not being able to take them out

 

im trying to find the replacement plugs, but i cant find them anywhere, can someone help me find a store that sells them

 

Mazdatrix sells them. If you're having a problem grabbing onto them with a wrench/socket then you can get a socket that fits inside the spark plug bore hole.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-ii362Z9n80x

 

Update i tried push starting the car. It started up. I had cleaned the plugs before that as well, the car didn't stay up for long though and cut off. I did everything to deflood the engine but I'm still at square one. Whatsnext to check?

 

Anyone have any idea what to do next?

 

sigh, car still isnt working, should i take the injecters out and check them out?

 

um once my car was doing this and i found out my maf sensor was out. check it out bro. is it even wanting to start? if not than it could be it. dont know how to check it but i do know is to not to open it up unerneath a flourasant light. it will fry it. i had a spare and i changed them out and after a couple of tries my car fired up. so check ur maf and if you still have original air box check the filter. when i went to buy my first fc it wouldnt start it kept flooding and then i checked the filter and found that a mouse had made a home. i bought the fc cheap cuz it didnt run but it was just a filter lmao. lucky me

 

i will check the maf but i dont think thats the problem, couldnt hurt to check though. i will let you now tomorrow whats going on