rico05

I think I have gotten to the point that I can easily function under the hood of my N/A, but when it comes to turbos...well..I don't know ****. Anyone got a good suggestion on books/websites where I can get basic turbo knowledge and facts and a good resource for turbo rotary info? When I get a TII, I really want to do it right, and know my stuff! Thanks guys!!

vudoodoodoo

www.howstuffworks.com is a good start.

jspecracer7

Just use a Haynes Manual. I was SO scared of my TII(she was my second 7...my first was an n/a) before I actually opened her up. The first month I had her, my turbo/manifold gasket went out and I didn't know what I should do...so I pulled my haynes manual out and though...that doesn't look too hard. Well, the first time I took out my turbo, it took me 4 hours. The second time, it took me 2 hours. After that, I could do it in about an hour and a half....

...on a side note, I found my TII to be easier to work on...but my n/a to be less problematic...

rico05

I just read the How Stuff Works. Very helpful. I am not so concerned right now on how to service or work on the turbo system (I'll have plenty of time to deal with that once I get the bugger). Right now, I am just curious on the mechanics of it all. How does a wastegate sense boost pressure? How does a turbo timer work? How does clipping the compressor fins help? How does a BOV and a Pop off valve work? How much fuel do you need for x amount of boost?

speedjunky

iTrader: (1)

If you wana do it right you will spend alotand start off w/ a 89-91 t II. you may spend a little more but you will get alot more. 87-88 lot more work to make fast

Chris Ng

it takes more work to make a series 4 fast when compared to a series 5? how do you figure that?
The 2 cars are basically equivlent to each other.. the horsepower diffrences between the years are nominal at best, since the series 5 has a min. 200lbs weight dsadvantage...
The series 4 also has a more reliable mechanical oil injection system, rather then the electrical OMP of the series 5.. If you want to get nitpicky, the road to making a fast T2 includes switching over to a standalone EMS (Either Wolf or Haltech etc..) at which point you will have to do something about the electrical omp (Either run premix, or swap out the front covers and TB's to the series 4 units, since none of the standalone's will run the electrical OMP) and so the series 4 is actually easier..

THe only reason I would want a series 5 T2 is because of the esthetics.. They do look nicer on both the extereior and interior.. However they are harder to come across and are generally alot more money..in the end, if you can find yourself a series 4 T2 in good condition, I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up, or you could have a long wait finding a series 5..

Josepi

I'll explain the BOV and POV for ya.

POV (Pop off valve): Is a checkvalve on the intake track after the turbo before the IC that regulates the maximum amount of boost the engine is seeing. We all know that 17 psi on a stock turbo and fuel setup would kill the engine right? Good. Now say for some odd reason, you had a manual/elec boost controller. Say you set it high. The pop off valve would keep the excess pressure from reaching the engine bay by venting it to the atmosphere at a set level of PSI. The downside is, even while saving your motor from excess boost, your turbo is still busy creating it. The good is you save your motor, the bad is, if your overrevving your turbo, it's gonna die a quick death. These would be good if your having creep in the later gears, depending on the sound they make, it might help you realize that you need to let off the throttle to save your car.

BOV (Blow off valve): Also set on the intake track after the turbo before the IC. What it helps to do is prevent compressor surge. What's that? Well your turbo under load is creating compressed air. When you let off the throttle, the plates in the throttle body close. Now where is all that compressed air going to want to go? Back through the compressor! That's BAD! What it does is vent the leftovers back into the intake (pre turbo for stock) or to the atmosphere (aftermarket generally).

The wastegate is controlled by an actuator. Basically, when a certain vacuum level is reached, an arm moves and opens the wastegate.

jspecracer7

a lot of questions I see...okay this one first:

If you've ever taken a turbo off of a TII, you'll notice a little "L" shaped nipple coming off of the compressor housing. This line is run to the actuator to control boost(stock boost that is). If you use a VVC(Variable Valve Controller i.e. manual boost controller), it will go between the "L" shaped nipple and the actuator for the wastegate...venting off pressure to achieve more boost.

A Turbo timer "fools" the ignition into thinking that the key is still in place, thus leaving your car on even after the key is out. It fools it for a certain period of time, depending upon the turbo timer and the MANY various ways to attain automatic turbo timing.

Less inertial mass on the compressor blade? I don't know...Better leave this one to the experts..

BOV and POV aren't the same. BOV vent excess boost between shifts from going back into the compressor housing and possibly damaging the wheel/bearings/etc. A POV is a "Just in case" item. If you're scared of your wastegate line accidentally popping off of your wastegate and thus giving you full boost, this is what you want. DO NOT use it to regulate boost however...that is what a boost controller is for.

This is a little bit trickier...there is no easy way for me to explain. I use a GREDDY a/f meter and an exhaust temp sensor to street tune my FD. Some people will disagree. Others will agree. I would rather lose HP than motors...

and Rico...did you even search?

blu_gxl

rico, pick up a copy of corky bells turbo book. i can't remember the name right now (sorry) do asearch on amazon for his name and it will come up. that will be all you need for a while until you are ready to start building your own turbo at least

rico05

Thanks a lot guys!! I am lookin to spend $5k-$6k on a S5 TII w/ a rebuild engine and few mods. I want to do this right. I made a LOT of goofy mistakes on my N/A, but a TII is much less forgiving than an N/A to mistakes. Thanks for the AWESOME explination to the BOV, POV, and wastegate. Now...how about intercooler size and operation? And numbers like "60-1" and TDO4? What do those size numbers mean?

BoostedRotors

thats not at all true. s4 cars can be made everybit as fast as s5 cars, for just as much cash. the difference in the 2 cars performance is only distinguishable on paper.

even if it were true, the money you save buying an s4 more than makes up the gap. 3k vs. 5k, theres 2k to spend modding your s4 before youve invested the same amount.

BoostedRotors

60-1 is a trim. TD04 is a type of turbo, I believe it came stock on AWD DSM turbo cars...tiny turbo. So lets say someone says they have a TD06 20g, that tells you both the type and the trim of the turbo.

Theres a lot of different trims as well as types, you will pick up on them as you go along. Good Luck!

jspecracer7

TD-04...it's a Mitsubishi turbine...I think it's smaller than a stock FC turbine as well.

a "60-1" is the wheel that is inside a T-04S. It's a 60mm inducer(the diameter of the top of the wheel). HKS T-04S and Turbonetics T-04S are same specs, but the wheels/backplate are NOT interchangeable because of one being convex(or is it concave...) and the other wheel being flat on the back.

I've got the exact specs of all the turbo's that turbonetics has somewhere, but I'm too lazy to get up and look for them.

Blah, Blah, Blah...

T3 and T4...different...T4 (or T-04) is what most single turbo users have. T3 is what is primarily used for piston engine cars which have minimal exhaust pulses(because of the 4 stroke design). Rotary's use fairly large exhaust housing when compared to Piston engine's. A good example of this is my friend with a SR20DET. T-04E turbine... with a .48 exhaust housing. A rotary would CHOKE on such a small exhaust housing. Our numbers would almost be reversed...we'd use a .84 exhaust housing.

ANYWAYS...I'm starting to ramble... just go to:

www.turbonetics.com

they'll answer ALL your turbo needs.

jspecracer7

PLUS they have mechanical oil metering and lower compression rotors...good for stand alone ECU's and higher BOOST!!!

BoostedRotors

and no annoying seatbelt!!!

jspecracer7

Ah yes, the seatbelts...I was thinking more in the lines of performance vs. annoyance...

I do like the S5 rear tail lights however...I think my competitors like them too

VetteKiller

lot of good info for newbies in here, 5 star rating

BoostedRotors

This is true. Also, I like the stock shifter in an s5 a lot more. also, if you find yourself as unforunate as i have and wind up with a late 88, youll need to wire in a resistor pack to run the larger 720's.

OK, so they both have their pros/cons...I still say s4!!

Felix Wankel

Me too. Could be why I have a S5 shifter

The only part of the interior I like in them is the gauges, shifter, and radio trim.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

one end of the wastgate it teed into boost, when there is boost it pushes open the wastegate door. the turbo timer works the same way an alarm does, it goes between the key and the car, and when you turn off the key, the tt will keep the circuit closed. there are 2 wheels in the turbo connected by a shaft. one side the, turbine, is spun by the heat of the exhaust gas coming out of the engine, the other wheel, compressor, pulls air from the air box and compresses it into the engine. if you make he wheel smaller, clipping, then the blade cant "seal" against the housing. so, on the exhaust side the exhaust gas can go aound the wheel, and the wheel will spin slower.

mike

scathcart

Canadian S5 cars don't have the mechanical seatbelt, just one that is permanently mounted just like the S4 cars.

rico05

I like my S4 shifter thank you very much Felix

rico05

Bump to da Izzo

jspecracer7

TII to the Jizzay---specracer7 that is...

MaTT_FoULk

Good thread, I'm now more edumucated.