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I Am A Turbo Moron....Please Teach Me!!
I think I have gotten to the point that I can easily function under the hood of my N/A, but when it comes to turbos...well..I don't know SHIT. Anyone got a good suggestion on books/websites where I can get basic turbo knowledge and facts and a good resource for turbo rotary info? When I get a TII, I really want to do it right, and know my stuff! Thanks guys!!
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www.howstuffworks.com is a good start.
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Re: I Am A Turbo Moron....Please Teach Me!!
Originally posted by rico05 I think I have gotten to the point that I can easily function under the hood of my N/A, but when it comes to turbos...well..I don't know SHIT. Anyone got a good suggestion on books/websites where I can get basic turbo knowledge and facts and a good resource for turbo rotary info? When I get a TII, I really want to do it right, and know my stuff! Thanks guys!! ...on a side note, I found my TII to be easier to work on...but my n/a to be less problematic... |
I just read the How Stuff Works. Very helpful. I am not so concerned right now on how to service or work on the turbo system (I'll have plenty of time to deal with that once I get the bugger;)). Right now, I am just curious on the mechanics of it all. How does a wastegate sense boost pressure? How does a turbo timer work? How does clipping the compressor fins help? How does a BOV and a Pop off valve work? How much fuel do you need for x amount of boost?
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If you wana do it right you will spend alotand start off w/ a 89-91 t II. you may spend a little more but you will get alot more. 87-88 lot more work to make fast
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it takes more work to make a series 4 fast when compared to a series 5? how do you figure that?
The 2 cars are basically equivlent to each other.. the horsepower diffrences between the years are nominal at best, since the series 5 has a min. 200lbs weight dsadvantage... The series 4 also has a more reliable mechanical oil injection system, rather then the electrical OMP of the series 5.. If you want to get nitpicky, the road to making a fast T2 includes switching over to a standalone EMS (Either Wolf or Haltech etc..) at which point you will have to do something about the electrical omp (Either run premix, or swap out the front covers and TB's to the series 4 units, since none of the standalone's will run the electrical OMP) and so the series 4 is actually easier.. THe only reason I would want a series 5 T2 is because of the esthetics.. They do look nicer on both the extereior and interior.. However they are harder to come across and are generally alot more money..in the end, if you can find yourself a series 4 T2 in good condition, I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up, or you could have a long wait finding a series 5.. |
I'll explain the BOV and POV for ya.
POV (Pop off valve): Is a checkvalve on the intake track after the turbo before the IC that regulates the maximum amount of boost the engine is seeing. We all know that 17 psi on a stock turbo and fuel setup would kill the engine right? Good. Now say for some odd reason, you had a manual/elec boost controller. Say you set it high. The pop off valve would keep the excess pressure from reaching the engine bay by venting it to the atmosphere at a set level of PSI. The downside is, even while saving your motor from excess boost, your turbo is still busy creating it. The good is you save your motor, the bad is, if your overrevving your turbo, it's gonna die a quick death. These would be good if your having creep in the later gears, depending on the sound they make, it might help you realize that you need to let off the throttle to save your car. BOV (Blow off valve): Also set on the intake track after the turbo before the IC. What it helps to do is prevent compressor surge. What's that? Well your turbo under load is creating compressed air. When you let off the throttle, the plates in the throttle body close. Now where is all that compressed air going to want to go? Back through the compressor! That's BAD! What it does is vent the leftovers back into the intake (pre turbo for stock) or to the atmosphere (aftermarket generally). The wastegate is controlled by an actuator. Basically, when a certain vacuum level is reached, an arm moves and opens the wastegate. |
Originally posted by rico05 I just read the How Stuff Works. Very helpful. I am not so concerned right now on how to service or work on the turbo system (I'll have plenty of time to deal with that once I get the bugger;)). Right now, I am just curious on the mechanics of it all. Originally posted by rico05 How does a wastegate sense boost pressure? Originally posted by rico05 How does a turbo timer work? Originally posted by rico05 How does clipping the compressor fins help? Originally posted by rico05 How does a BOV and a Pop off valve work? Originally posted by rico05 How much fuel do you need for x amount of boost? and Rico...did you even search? :D ;) |
rico, pick up a copy of corky bells turbo book. i can't remember the name right now (sorry) do asearch on amazon for his name and it will come up. that will be all you need for a while until you are ready to start building your own turbo at least :biggrin:
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Thanks a lot guys!! I am lookin to spend $5k-$6k on a S5 TII w/ a rebuild engine and few mods. I want to do this right. I made a LOT of goofy mistakes on my N/A, but a TII is much less forgiving than an N/A to mistakes. Thanks for the AWESOME explination to the BOV, POV, and wastegate. Now...how about intercooler size and operation? And numbers like "60-1" and TDO4? What do those size numbers mean?
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Originally posted by speedjunky If you wana do it right you will spend alotand start off w/ a 89-91 t II. you may spend a little more but you will get alot more. 87-88 lot more work to make fast even if it were true, the money you save buying an s4 more than makes up the gap. 3k vs. 5k, theres 2k to spend modding your s4 before youve invested the same amount. :) |
Originally posted by rico05 Thanks a lot guys!! I am lookin to spend $5k-$6k on a S5 TII w/ a rebuild engine and few mods. I want to do this right. I made a LOT of goofy mistakes on my N/A, but a TII is much less forgiving than an N/A to mistakes. Thanks for the AWESOME explination to the BOV, POV, and wastegate. Now...how about intercooler size and operation? And numbers like "60-1" and TDO4? What do those size numbers mean? Theres a lot of different trims as well as types, you will pick up on them as you go along. Good Luck! |
Originally posted by rico05 Thanks a lot guys!! I am lookin to spend $5k-$6k on a S5 TII w/ a rebuild engine and few mods. I want to do this right. I made a LOT of goofy mistakes on my N/A, but a TII is much less forgiving than an N/A to mistakes. Thanks for the AWESOME explination to the BOV, POV, and wastegate. Now...how about intercooler size and operation? And numbers like "60-1" and TDO4? What do those size numbers mean? a "60-1" is the wheel that is inside a T-04S. It's a 60mm inducer(the diameter of the top of the wheel). HKS T-04S and Turbonetics T-04S are same specs, but the wheels/backplate are NOT interchangeable because of one being convex(or is it concave...) and the other wheel being flat on the back. I've got the exact specs of all the turbo's that turbonetics has somewhere, but I'm too lazy to get up and look for them.:D Blah, Blah, Blah... T3 and T4...different...T4 (or T-04) is what most single turbo users have. T3 is what is primarily used for piston engine cars which have minimal exhaust pulses(because of the 4 stroke design). Rotary's use fairly large exhaust housing when compared to Piston engine's. A good example of this is my friend with a SR20DET. T-04E turbine... with a .48 exhaust housing. A rotary would CHOKE on such a small exhaust housing. Our numbers would almost be reversed...we'd use a .84 exhaust housing. ANYWAYS...I'm starting to ramble... just go to: www.turbonetics.com they'll answer ALL your turbo needs. |
Originally posted by BoostedRotors thats not at all true. s4 cars can be made everybit as fast as s5 cars, for just as much cash. the difference in the 2 cars performance is only distinguishable on paper. even if it were true, the money you save buying an s4 more than makes up the gap. 3k vs. 5k, theres 2k to spend modding your s4 before youve invested the same amount. :) |
and no annoying seatbelt!!! :D
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Originally posted by BoostedRotors and no annoying seatbelt!!! :D I do like the S5 rear tail lights however...I think my competitors like them too:D |
lot of good info for newbies in here, 5 star rating :)
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Originally posted by jspecracer7 Ah yes, the seatbelts...I was thinking more in the lines of performance vs. annoyance... I do like the S5 rear tail lights however...I think my competitors like them too:D OK, so they both have their pros/cons...I still say s4!! :D |
Originally posted by BoostedRotors Also, I like the stock shifter in an s5 a lot more. The only part of the interior I like in them is the gauges, shifter, and radio trim. |
Originally posted by rico05 I just read the How Stuff Works. Very helpful. I am not so concerned right now on how to service or work on the turbo system (I'll have plenty of time to deal with that once I get the bugger;)). Right now, I am just curious on the mechanics of it all. How does a wastegate sense boost pressure? How does a turbo timer work? How does clipping the compressor fins help? How does a BOV and a Pop off valve work? How much fuel do you need for x amount of boost? mike |
Originally posted by BoostedRotors and no annoying seatbelt!!! :D |
I like my S4 shifter thank you very much Felix;)
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Bump to da Izzo
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Originally posted by rico05 Bump to da Izzo |
Good thread, I'm now more edumucated.
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