hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Ok guys at the risk of sounding like a complete newb one of the reasons I have not done anything with stainless steal braided stuff is quite frankly I have no idea what i am doing. I don't know the tools required is the main part and the other part is I just don't know how it is done. Is there crimping involved as far as getting the fittings on the hose? Do you have to use that big cutter that I have seen for the hose? Sorry guys to sound like a newb but now that i'm hitting more hp and going full turbo upgrade I kind of need to know this stuff. If anyone has good info on this it may just help out more people than just dumb *** me

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

The best tip I have is when you cut the hose wrap the spot you are going to cut with tape. This keeps the braid from fraying.

For brake lines there is a little ferrel that you have to push on in between the brade and teflon hose. Just be sure to put the threaded female part on the hose first.

Most other bigger hose you just slide the female threaded hose 'cover' on the hose then shove the hose end in. After that you just tighten the two parts together.

If you have a hose that needs two elbo fittings, get one fitting that is a swivel. You can't twist this stuff and getting the two fittings pointing the right way on the hose is tough.

Once you do one you'll find its easy.

daten

To cut it, I bought a large cable cutting tool from the electrical section of Home Depot. It looks like bolt cutters but the blades are sharp and curved. It said not to use it to cut steel, but it slid right through the SS braided hose when nothing else would cut it.

It cost about $60 and when I was done, I put it back in it's plastic package and returned it for a full refund, no questions asked.

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

Dremel cut off wheel for the braid. Then ordinary PVC pipe cutters for the hose. Use tape like he said but this way you'll get a nice clean cut without the chance of you not completely cutting some of the steel wires and causing it to fray

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What kind of line and who's fittings are you using? Assembly can depend on the fitting style.

For cutting, I use a cutoff wheel. I wrap the area tightly with two layers of electrical tape and then make a nice straight cut right through at a medium speed. For -6 hose, it takes about 2 seconds to make the cut. Then the tape is carefully removed and I squeeze the braid slightly while inserting into the socket.

Some sockets (Aeroquip, some Earls) have ledges on the inside so you just push the hose in while turning back and forth slightly. These style fittings are nice when using bent fittings because if you know where the fitting stops in the socket (mark it) you can position the socket on the hose in a spot that lets you put the fitting basically where you want it. But I find these types of fittings are far more prone to having the hose push out while yous crew in the fitting.

I personally prefer the Russel fittings. You screw the socket onto the hose, and then screw in the fitting. Never have I experienced one of these pushing out and it's generally not a struggle to get the hose in. The disadvantage is that without a swivel fitting you don't have as much freedom for positioning the fitting.

In that sense, if you have a hose with two bent fittings on each end, make one of them a swivel.

Life is also too short to work with hose smaller then -6.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

cool thanks guys thats a big help. So there is no crimping to do?

edit: I wrote my post before seeing aaron cakes responce. Thanks man! I will be using -4an for oil inlet and -10an for oil return and if i have money left over I will be using -6an for fuel. So the only thing that keeps the hose on is twisting it on to the fitting?

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

Tape: Use the kind with fibers, if you use electrical tape, duct tape, masking, those can fray or split at the cutting point.

cut off wheel will work, just make a circular cut, cut away at the steel braids on the outside then go ahead and cut the hose with a box cutter or something(avoid getting shards into your line) as stated above already.

i would probably cut a little piece off and practice putting the fittings on or something.

rotorforce

That's ghetto if you ask me.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There is no crimping if you are using socket style fittings. There ARE crimp fittings out there designed for OEMs but you probably won't be using them due to lack of the expensive crimper...

I would recommend that if this is your first time using this hose, DO NOT use -4. It is very small and the braid wants to unravel as soon as you remove the tape from the cut. It's a very frustrating experience. -6 is 10X easier to assemble and generally cheaper as well since -6 fittings are common and -4 is not.

The hose is secured into the socket by the considerable pressure of the inside of the fitting pushing the hose against the inside of the socket. It's a well proven system that has worked for years in hydraulic applications.

Also, most hose/fitting manufacturers have assembly instructions on their website. I have found that Vaseline is the best assembly lube to use in this case.

I've tried all kinds of tape from masking to packing to duct to electrical and found that tightly wrapped electrical tape works the best. Especially for a beginner.

Cut straight through with the cutoff wheel. That will prevent the braid from fraying and provide a very straight cut. Also if there is an inner braid it will go through that as well. Getting crap into the hose during assembly is not a big deal since the hose needs to be washed before use anyway.

tinvestor

archive anyone?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok aaron thanks again for the help man I do appreciate it greatly! I just have one question. The -6an line would be too big for a oil feed line so i'm guessing the use of an oil restrictor would be in line for this application? Thanks again.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

-6 is fine for oil feed using the stock turbo. Aftermarket turbos might require a restrictor.

You can use -4, but it is a royal pain to work with. If you use thin tape and only one layer you can leave the tape on to keep the braid in place after cutting but then the hose has a tendency to want to slip out of the socket.

Pat McGroin

Summit sells a cutter specifically for AN lines, it costs 33 dollars.

What I did for my fuel setup was use my rotating saw, and wrapped the part i was going to cut really tight about 4 times with electrical tape, no fraying.

Also, use alumnium tools when tightening your AN fittings because they are soft and you will strip them. Summit sells the tools for that as well.

Also after I cut the line I took off the tape and rewrapped it one time around and it should go into the fitting easily, but with a little resistance.

Last tip, after your cuts, blow through the hose since dust/cut particles will get inside, and you don't want that stuff being circulated through your system.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

these 4AN fittings are killing me!!!!!! just trying to do 4AN lines for the external wastegate. In 4 hours I got ONE 4AN straight hose end installed cleanly. Installing the red socket and getting it to thread on is practically impossible---way harder than the 6AN or 10AN fittings which I'm pretty good at by now. I cut it using two layers of electrical tape and a cutoff wheel. Good, solid cut with no fraying really. Then I try to get the hose end into the socket using a jeweler's flathead. I am basically following the anplumbing.com video and putting the socket into the vice. It looks like it's straight, and I start turning it, but it just turns and turns and turns and doesn't thread on. Then the end is all messed up so I recut it and try again. This processs repeats itself and I get so frustrated. Next time I am buying pre-assembled 4AN hose.

Any advice at all?

tecknomage

if you want to cut stuff i recommend Knipex there awesome there center cuts cut through 3.5mm of piano wire

http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=7...ukat=schneid11

manslayerx9

holy thread resurrection bat man
but good job searching.

tecknomage

lol didn't realize that lol

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

NICE!!!!!

I takes a little practice to get a decent cut with a hand cutter. The cut off saw works best.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Believe me, I know where you are coming from. The first time I did -4 I nearly wanted to kill the engineer who though that a human being could assemble this hose. I finally gave up and just went with -6, but couldn't leave it alone and tried again in another year.

Who's fittings are you using? Some are harder to work with then others.

What I found was I was being too delicate. I try to use only one layer of tape, and use a Dremel with a cutting disk at high speed. There will be some fraying as it's unavoidable but if the whole end is separating, then make another cut.

How get a good set of grippy gloves. I have sheepskin TIG welding gloves that work well. Place the socket TIGHTLY in a large vice so that the open end faces you. Grab the hose as hard as you can, and pushing with all your might jam it into the socket as you turn it. Don't be shy. You need to PUSH HARD and turn. Some of the braids may want to come back out but just keep pushing and they will fold over. Don't stop until the hose is firmly within the socket.

The layer of tape needs to be thin so that it still fits into the socket.

Now before you screw in the fitting, use a screwdriver or awl to spread out the rubber hose slightly. It's probably crushed a bit when being inserted into the socket and if you try to screw in the fitting, it will push back out. Use a lot of lubrication on the fitting and inside of the hose.

This takes practice. Generally I need about three attempts to get a good assembly.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I think I initially made the mistake of thinking that all AN fittings are about the same. I think I have Russel maybe. I don't really remember, but whatever it is it's cheapy made I think (although I didn't buy this from a no-name ebay vendor or anything). It has no logo on the side and no "AN" stamped on it like the Earl's fittings. I find that my set of mechanix gloves does the job for this. As far as the blue fitting backing out... holy crap that was one of the most frustrating things when I first started doing AN lines. I finally figured out that, depending on the fitting, you often need to tighten the red socket until it almost completely bottoms. Then the blue cutter/nipple will seat in there securely and not back out when you try and screw it in.

I am going to try this again maybe tomorrow. My hand is still cramped from the struggles of two days ago when I made my most recent attempt... I feel like I am recovering from injuries from a violent 4 hour jerkoff session.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I had no issues with the -4. You guys need stronger fingers, coming from a fellow Bass player of 25 years! :0)

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, the biggest tricks I found with it were lube, and speed.

Once I would cut the hose, I would make a fluid motion of seeing where any minor frays were, inserting that portion first, and jamming it into the fitting which was in the vice.

I also found if you got the fitting over the hose, that it sometimes works well to slide it down the hose a ways, clear the tape from the connection, then make a fresh cut on the end. Sometimes as Aaron said when the braids fold over themselves while shoving it through, the frays make starting the threads on the two fittings nearly impossible.

I had to make two -4 pieces before I figured out I had to make the 2nd cut, and thus leave the hose the appropriate extra length from the start.

EDIT: These were earls fittings BTW. And wankler, I didn't have too much trouble, just a lot of punctured skin and about a years worth of repenting for swear words used

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I just did braided lines in my car and ran a good amount of -3, -6, -8, and -10 lines what would make -4 lines so difficult?
James

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

i just skimmed by all the post but no one mentioned- MAKE SURE YOU BLOW AIR THROUGHT THE LINES!!!!

dust,dirt,metal - will clogg up injectors

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like my fingers when I chenged out the oil seals on the rotors. I had no idea I was slashing my thumbs until it was too late. :0)