How can you tell that the oil jets that are in teh e-shaft are working, now that they are in the car?? I just rebuilt and want to make sure that they are working for me.

 

for the love of rotaries bump!

 

Without getting into the engine again, you'll never know 100%, however, I am not an expert. But....with my weber jets and RB oil pressure regulator, I think I lost about 5-10psi in oil pressure with them. So if they were clogged (hard to believe) your pressure would be higher, if they fell out, I would imagine your pressure would be considerable lower.

To sum it up, if your oil pressure is good and temps are normal, they are working fine. Did you install a bypass on the front of the eshaft when you did the rebuild?

 

If they stopped working...... you'd know it in a minute or two as the rotor berings went to hell in a handbasket... But, the jets are fairly simple, if you cleaned everything out good they should be working... the thermal pellet in the front... thats the schmuck that can really screw things up... did you mod it???

 

WRONG!
The oil jets located in the eccentric shaft spray oil into the rotor for cooling. The rotor bearings are fed via separate holes in the eccentric shaft. Failure of the oil jets will not kill your rotor bearings, it will just overheat your rotors.

 

My oil pressure is sitting at 60PSI @ 2000rpm according to the stock gauge... I think it is 60PSI, it is 3/4 of the way from where the gauge starts to read... If my rotors were overheating would my exhaust be extremely hot? My exhaust i putting out a good amount of heat, I dont know if this is normal or not.

I wanted to clean the jets better when I had the shaft out but I couldnt get the damn things out of the shaft.

 

no mod of the thermal pellet? got a lnik to the mod?

 

Oil pressure is too hard to tell, especially with the stock gauge.

If it's any consolation, of the countless rebuilds I ahev done, I have not seen them fail. Only the thermal pellet (the spring thing behind the front pulley bolt) fails.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm
Part #11 is the stock part that fails. To mod it, you replace it with the 11-plug part.


Btw, exhaust is usually pretty hot, what with it being the product of exploding gasoline and all...

 

"Modding" it is not required. If it fails, replace it with a new one. The first one lasted ~15 years and there's no reason why a new one won't to. It's there to warm the engine up faster, which has many benefits including engine longevity and reduced fuel consumption.

 

But a rotary exhaust is a lot hotter than a piston engine, no?