how to tel difference between s4 and s5?
how to tel difference between s4 and s5?
hey i was wondering if there were any wasy yahl knew of to tell if i had a s4 or s5 motor in my car. the recipt with the car shows a s4 motor. but the shop that didi it swears that its a s5. so i know it has an electric oil metering pump but they said they put all the emissions and other miscelaneous bull off the old one onto the newer jspec that they put in. so my question is this. i want a s5 so how do i tell what i got? cuz my motor just blew and i want to know whether to rebuild or get s5?
Pull the temperature sending unit out - the one that is next to the oil pressure sending unit. If it has very fine threads you have an S4. If it has coarse pipe threads you have an S5. The S4 will also have an aluminum washer on the sending unit to seal it.
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Originally posted by Crusader_9x
where is the temp sending unit at? in the block? also i did a comporession check 3.7 on the first and sdditn even register on the sencond
where is the temp sending unit at? in the block? also i did a comporession check 3.7 on the first and sdditn even register on the sencond
3.7 on the front and nothing on the second is pretty well toast!
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by CANRX7GX
not too sure abou tthis but would a compression test tell you.?? i believe the s5s have a higher compression ration then the s4s.... but im not 100% on that
not too sure abou tthis but would a compression test tell you.?? i believe the s5s have a higher compression ration then the s4s.... but im not 100% on that
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Re: Do a VIN check
Originally posted by HOZZMANRX7
That will confirm the year it was made, thus if S4 (to , say, 11/1988) or S5 (for sure after 1/1989)
That will confirm the year it was made, thus if S4 (to , say, 11/1988) or S5 (for sure after 1/1989)
Another way to tell the difference: Knock sensor location. S4 will be in the center iron facing forward at the bottom of the oil filler neck. S5 will be above the trailing (top) plug) on - usually - the rear rotor.
This method is the quickest way to tell.
This method is the quickest way to tell.
Yeah, S5 turbos don't have EGR, but intake manifolds can be changed. I think when it comes down to identifying a bare block (that hasn't already been built), the temp sending unit and the knock sensor are your best bets.
wel theres nothing above the trailing plug on the second rotor bu thtere is something above the trailing on the first rotor.
Last edited by Crusader_9x; Oct 29, 2002 at 10:48 AM.
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Atlanta.Georgia
hmm i wouilda sayed check for manifold,eltric oil metering pump. really no way to tell if they put all s4 crap on it without tearing it apart. see how high it will let you rev!!! hehe
Originally posted by Crusader_9x
wel theres nothing above the trailing plug on the second rotor bu thtere is something above the trailing on the first rotor.
wel theres nothing above the trailing plug on the second rotor bu thtere is something above the trailing on the first rotor.
Originally posted by ZoomZoomH
now let me ask this, is it possible for a cheapass owner/dishonest mechanic to replace a s5 motor with a s4??
now let me ask this, is it possible for a cheapass owner/dishonest mechanic to replace a s5 motor with a s4??
The S4s will also take more boost due to lower compression rotors.
The only thing to change is the front cover (with OMP), and to do it right, the intake manifold (upper and lower), and the turbo.
Only notable differences:
different compression ratios
lighter rotors in 89+ (different counterweights as well)
different front cover/OMP/waterpump
Those are the major items that are different. The minor ones are placement of senders, thread types, etc. Other than that, with an S4 and an S5 sitting on the ground, they look almost identical.
Originally posted by Sledgehammer
If it's a rather large (ie: 1.5" in diameter) six-sided chunk of metal with one wire coming from it, then it's the knock sensor and you have an S5 block.
If it's a rather large (ie: 1.5" in diameter) six-sided chunk of metal with one wire coming from it, then it's the knock sensor and you have an S5 block.
-Ted
Originally posted by Sledgehammer
Nope. NA's don't have knock sensors.
They're easy enough to determine series just by looks.
Nope. NA's don't have knock sensors.
They're easy enough to determine series just by looks.
I'm planning to buy this car, the motor has been replaced, I just want to make sure it's been replaced by a s5
That's an S5 just by looking at the pictures. The block itself is the deciding factor though, which you can't see in the photos.
I have heard of people putting S5 intakes on S4 motors, but if I recall correctly (I've never attempted it), you have to grind down a boss on the center iron in order for the S5 intake to fit.
Also, the temp sending unit thread pitch difference holds true for the NA's as well. Fine thread with an aluminum washer = S4. Coars pipe threads with now washer = S5.
I have heard of people putting S5 intakes on S4 motors, but if I recall correctly (I've never attempted it), you have to grind down a boss on the center iron in order for the S5 intake to fit.
Also, the temp sending unit thread pitch difference holds true for the NA's as well. Fine thread with an aluminum washer = S4. Coars pipe threads with now washer = S5.
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