I know this is probably somewhere else in the forum but I have no more time to search so can anyone please tell me or direct me to a link on how to install a manual boost controller into an '88 TII specifically? And oh yeah, I just love instructions that come with pics.. Thanks!

 

FInd the vacuum line that feeds the wastegate and splice the valve into that line. ALl the valve does is limit the amount of boost that reaches the wastegate actuator, in turn making it open later, thus raising the boost. Study the 4B section of the 88 fsm

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm

and find the wastegate actuator vacuum supply line, cut into it, adn attatch your valve, start with it allt eh way open(stock) and slowly close it and make test runs untilt he boost goes up to what you want. Youll notice a bigger difference in higher gears.

 

well it depends on if it's a bleed type or a ball and spring...

 

I just stuck a vacuum tee in my wastegate line like the MKIV boys, until I can get around to making a boost controller. I got about 5 more psi.

 

Here are two effective manual boost controllers:

Manual boost controller

Better manual boost controller (part 1)
Better manual boost controller (part 2)

 

a ball and spring one is better though...

just do some net serching...

http://members.aol.com/johnmonnin/18boostcompare1.html

 

Thanks guyz.. I'm gonna try to see if I can locate all the parts involve inside my car such as the vacuum line, wastegate actuator, etc.. when I get the chance later on this week.. After that, I'll go ahead and order myself either the MBC or the electronic one.. One more thing, what's the easiest way to get to those parts?? I have that pesky ABS blocking everything...
Thanks!

 

The ABS isn't anywhere near the wastegate line. Its on front of the turbo. Take your airbox and turbo inlet duct off and you will see it clear as day.

 

Dude, installing a manual boost controller is EASY. When you take off the stock air box ( you should throw that away) you'll see the actuator and a vcauum line going to the turbo. Get a adjustable air valve (ball type preferrably) and install each end to it. Blow through one end and close the valve when there is some resistance.
You'll need to close it little at a time as it is very sensitive. Boost in the higer gears and adjust it accordingly (not over 10 psi). You will have boost creep if you haven't ported your wastegate so keep it on the low side ( 10 psi).

 

That's a very crude way of doing it, it won't hold a consistent boost level and will go from having no effect to overboost with the slightest change. Do not do it. Use the bleeder or (preferably) pressure regulator methods I posted earlier. Much safer and more effective.

 

It works fine. I've had it on for 3 years now and have it set at 11 psi. After the wastegate has been ported, it doesn't creep more than 2 psi. I thnk the bleeder type will give you more boost creep than the pressure type.
I had a bleeder installed and couldn't defeat boost creep even with a ported wastegate. You'd want the vacuum line as short as possible. I've seen some that installed it in the cockpit. That will give you lots of lag.

 

Not true, a "lag" in the compressor output affecting the wastegate is actually desirable. It is effective in reducing wastegate creep (NOT boost creep, that's a totally different problem) bringing boost up faster but still holding the same max boost. This is because the pressure seen by the wastegate doesn't change, just the time it takes to get there because you need to fill a higher volume of hose with pressurised air. The same effect (or better) can be had by teeing a small volume into the wastegate actuator line. The attached graph shows boost vs. rpm after doing this mod to a 3.0L turbo six-cylinder. A 250cc volume was used. This gave a huge on-road performance increase, the earlier arrival of boost significantly improving low-mid range torque. Note max boost doesn't change, so no extra demands are put on the fuel system. This is about the best $20/half-hour you can spend on your turbo car.

 

It's fun up until you hit boost creep and blow the motor.&nbsp The MBC can't compensate for ambient air temps nor any other change in climate variables.&nbsp It changes boost levels when ambient temps change!&nbsp There is nothing that can come close to what a properly designed closed-loop EBC can do - boost ramps are the most aggressive you can run - no MBC can even match it's consistency.&nbsp This is something that can bite you in the *** - yes, it's fun, but I recommend to save your money and buy a REAL boost controller.

Speed takes money.&nbsp Performance takes money.



-Ted

 

Performance takes intelligent money. Not everyone can afford to blow money on over-priced EBC's, and anything that can give 90% of the performance for <10% of the cost I'll look at seriously. Boost creep cannot be controlled any better with an EBC, no controller can lower boost. Some of the EBC's will warn you of overboost, but you could easily build an overboost warning light/buzzer for about $10. I've seen dozens of these things working quite successfully, any problems are usually caused by the idiot twidling the *****. I think EBC's are great (but too expensive) and if money was no object I'd have one. But for now I'll stick with what works fine and I can afford.

 

See I didn't know that.. I'm an idiot when it comes to rotary.. Anyway, can someone post a picture of the wastegate line just to make sure I'm looking at the right line.. Thanks guyz and sorry for being a pain...

By the way, is this gonna be the same line to be used if I was to install an EBC instead 'coz I was thinking of just buying the Blitz single solenoid from SummitRacing.. What do you guyz think? thanks!

 

I don't find it "over-priced."&nbsp It's all relative...

I'm talking about overboost due to very cold ambient temps.&nbsp The MBC cannot compensate for that.&nbsp An EBC with closed-loop feedback can, no problem.

This is about being able to afford the performance.&nbsp Trying to go cheap can bite you in the ***.&nbsp If you feel your MBC is working fine, then good for you.&nbsp You're missing out on the consistent performance of a good EBC just because you think it's overpriced...



-Ted

 

Yeah, that's true, although I think the pressure regulator method will handle this much better than a bleeder. It's horses for courses really. We have a pretty mild climate here in Auckland (outside 50-85ºF is unusual), so low temps isn't an issue. Being silly and not knowing the limitations of you equipment can bite you in the ***. I just consider myself clued up enough not to exceed those limits. And I'm not missing out just because I think it's overpriced, I'm missing out coz I can't afford it!

 

Been there, done that...I guess I can call myself fortunate for being able to throw this much money into my car.&nbsp When I started messing with the FC, I did the MBC thing (I still got the HKS MBC!), and it used to **** me off due to inconsistencies due to ambient!&nbsp Mind you, I was living in Hawaii at the time, and Hawaii weather is pretty consistent, but it does go from low 90F's to low 60F's, and that's enough to change boost levels up to 2psi!&nbsp Of course we all wanted to run on the ragged edge - can you say "boost junkie"???&nbsp I've hit 18psi with the MBC once by accident, cause I was fooling around with the damn thing on a COLD night; lucky my motor didn't let go!

I've owned my A'PEXI Super AVC-R (Gen I) for several years now.&nbsp I've loved every minute it's been running in the car.&nbsp I used to run to the ragged edge at 1.00kg/cm^2 (14.2psi) with no problem.&nbsp I tried to tune it once up to 1.2kg/cm^2 (17psi) which ended up blowing the oil seals on the turbo in 2 weeks. Boy, was the boost fun when it was working! 17psi from 14psi felt like the same jump from 12psi to 14psi!

My philosophy is, if you're going to chase performance, do it right the first time.&nbsp If something costs money, save it then buy it.&nbsp Cutting corners will normally get you into trouble - I've been there, done that.&nbsp I realize not everyone can afford to do things to their ride - this just ends up being frustration.



-Ted

 

i have a greddy TVVC MBC coming. high boost coming soon

 

True. I forgot to type that. Inconsistent ambient temp will play havoc on your boost. Thats why I bought a Blitz EBC. I got tired of messing with that thing.

 

It is true with the manual boost controller, it is inconsistant. I had my first TVVC 7yrs ago. It worked great! I had installed the **** where the lighter is next to the ash tray...looked tight!!! Stick that Greddy stick under it and it looks JDM!