How hard is it to rebuild a 2nd gen motor?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
So I was thinking...I've loved rotaries for years, but I really don't have tons of money to afford rebuilds and such, so I think if I put my mind to it I could learn to rebuild one myself, I see many people on the forum who've rebuilt their motor themself and i find it to be an inspiration for me to try doing it myself.
How hard is it to rebuild it yourself, I'm more of an an amateur mechanic, I've done lots of work to cars, including installing the engine with some help in my last rx7, as well as removing it , and replacing the entire wiring harness, throttle body mod/porting, removing 5/6 ports etc..
I learned alot on my first rx7 i owned, the hard way and i think im ready to goto a more advanced level if i can, so i can really get the most for my money, so I'm not having to pay someone else to do something i could do for a fraction of the cost (only parts/my time)
I do have a.d.d, which kind of worries me, so I'll probably need my ritalin so i pay attention/focus as much I can potentially, maybe a few tools that I dont have (i already have a bunch, but i'm sure i'll probably need more)
What I'm asking is, it's probably very possibly for a decently intelligent guy with common sense to rebuild a rotary engine ?
I may make some mistakes the first time, I may not, but it will all be a fun learning process , as I've always wanted to learn how to do it.
How hard is it to rebuild it yourself, I'm more of an an amateur mechanic, I've done lots of work to cars, including installing the engine with some help in my last rx7, as well as removing it , and replacing the entire wiring harness, throttle body mod/porting, removing 5/6 ports etc..
I learned alot on my first rx7 i owned, the hard way and i think im ready to goto a more advanced level if i can, so i can really get the most for my money, so I'm not having to pay someone else to do something i could do for a fraction of the cost (only parts/my time)
I do have a.d.d, which kind of worries me, so I'll probably need my ritalin so i pay attention/focus as much I can potentially, maybe a few tools that I dont have (i already have a bunch, but i'm sure i'll probably need more)
What I'm asking is, it's probably very possibly for a decently intelligent guy with common sense to rebuild a rotary engine ?
I may make some mistakes the first time, I may not, but it will all be a fun learning process , as I've always wanted to learn how to do it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
So for tightening on the front hub, how would you do that without making the engine turn , since im pretty sure you cant get that tool to hold the engine in place, unless you can buy one. I'm guessing id also need a grinder, as well as engine stand, and a few other tools.
I'd be willing to invest the money since I've always wanted to learn how to do this. Rotary <3
I'd be willing to invest the money since I've always wanted to learn how to do this. Rotary <3
This is the tool I use to hold the rotating assembly still.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80510
You won't really need an engine stand, several people use a 5 gallon bucket to stack the engine together. I used 2 work benches pulled close together. It's all in how creative you are. Yes, you will need tools. A grinder will help, and can be bought pretty cheap at stores like Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Watch the videos, make a list of tools you need, then figure out what you can get by with, and what stuff you can substitute.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80510
You won't really need an engine stand, several people use a 5 gallon bucket to stack the engine together. I used 2 work benches pulled close together. It's all in how creative you are. Yes, you will need tools. A grinder will help, and can be bought pretty cheap at stores like Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. Watch the videos, make a list of tools you need, then figure out what you can get by with, and what stuff you can substitute.
So for tightening on the front hub, how would you do that without making the engine turn , since im pretty sure you cant get that tool to hold the engine in place, unless you can buy one. I'm guessing id also need a grinder, as well as engine stand, and a few other tools.
I'd be willing to invest the money since I've always wanted to learn how to do this. Rotary <3
I'd be willing to invest the money since I've always wanted to learn how to do this. Rotary <3
http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm
An engine stand is not required as stated from @agreen. However, I'm finding that just having it to put on accessories makes it so much easier than working on a pallet with a 2x4 like I did last time.
I went with the 1000 lb engine stand from harbor freight. It's "H" pattern legs makes it more stable than the 750lb "T" one.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...and-32916.html
Pineapple rotary engine stand adapter
http://www.pineappleracing.com/rotar...adaptor-1.aspx
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
The adapter isn't required and was discussed recently.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/engine-stand-question-999574/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/engine-stand-question-999574/
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
The adapter isn't required and was discussed recently.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=999574
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=999574
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i have the factory engine stand, and its really nice to assemble the engine on, but the base is so big that you can't get the hoist in there, so its such a pain to get the engine OFF the stand that i actually prefer my milk crate with 3 sides...
i found a milk crate, one side is cut out, and its got a metal band around the top. the engine gets built and can just be lifted off by hand, or the engine hoist* will straddle the crate.
also since the milk crate has 3 sides, you have an open side and when you go to put the center iron on you can actually just use the car's jack to lift the eshaft up, so the center iron is a two hand job instead of three.
plus the milk crate was free, and takes up less room....
*if you use a hoist, last time was a 1st gen, and you can put it in the bottom with a floor jack, very quick, very easy...
i found a milk crate, one side is cut out, and its got a metal band around the top. the engine gets built and can just be lifted off by hand, or the engine hoist* will straddle the crate.
also since the milk crate has 3 sides, you have an open side and when you go to put the center iron on you can actually just use the car's jack to lift the eshaft up, so the center iron is a two hand job instead of three.
plus the milk crate was free, and takes up less room....
*if you use a hoist, last time was a 1st gen, and you can put it in the bottom with a floor jack, very quick, very easy...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 4
From: Dinwiddie, Va
i have the factory engine stand, and its really nice to assemble the engine on, but the base is so big that you can't get the hoist in there, so its such a pain to get the engine OFF the stand that i actually prefer my milk crate with 3 sides...
i found a milk crate, one side is cut out, and its got a metal band around the top. the engine gets built and can just be lifted off by hand, or the engine hoist* will straddle the crate.
also since the milk crate has 3 sides, you have an open side and when you go to put the center iron on you can actually just use the car's jack to lift the eshaft up, so the center iron is a two hand job instead of three.
plus the milk crate was free, and takes up less room....
*if you use a hoist, last time was a 1st gen, and you can put it in the bottom with a floor jack, very quick, very easy...
i found a milk crate, one side is cut out, and its got a metal band around the top. the engine gets built and can just be lifted off by hand, or the engine hoist* will straddle the crate.
also since the milk crate has 3 sides, you have an open side and when you go to put the center iron on you can actually just use the car's jack to lift the eshaft up, so the center iron is a two hand job instead of three.
plus the milk crate was free, and takes up less room....
*if you use a hoist, last time was a 1st gen, and you can put it in the bottom with a floor jack, very quick, very easy...
this is going to be my first time doing this , so i just want to do whatever would be best for a first timer. are you the owner of k2rd.com ?
What we're all saying is that for our first times building a rotary, we all used dumb **** like milk crates and 5 gallon jugs.
Karack even had a post in the link posted by rxspeed16 about how he hooks up engines to the stand without adapters.
If you're planning on building a lot of rotaries, then the stand and adapter are totally worth it. Otherwise, it's just going to sit around and collect rust/dust once you're done with it.
Karack even had a post in the link posted by rxspeed16 about how he hooks up engines to the stand without adapters.
If you're planning on building a lot of rotaries, then the stand and adapter are totally worth it. Otherwise, it's just going to sit around and collect rust/dust once you're done with it.
What we're all saying is that for our first times building a rotary, we all used dumb **** like milk crates and 5 gallon jugs.
Karack even had a post in the link posted by rxspeed16 about how he hooks up engines to the stand without adapters.
If you're planning on building a lot of rotaries, then the stand and adapter are totally worth it. Otherwise, it's just going to sit around and collect rust/dust once you're done with it.
Karack even had a post in the link posted by rxspeed16 about how he hooks up engines to the stand without adapters.
If you're planning on building a lot of rotaries, then the stand and adapter are totally worth it. Otherwise, it's just going to sit around and collect rust/dust once you're done with it.
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