I finally got access to a garage!! Now i can finally start rebuilding my 13b, ive looked up engine stand adapter plates from pineapple racing to hold a 13b but do you really need one? How hard will it be without one?

 

i just finished rebuilding mine without one and it was no problem at all. there are alsi numerous engine builders that do not use adapters. theyre not worth buying in my opinion.

 

I had my local engineering company make one for me for crate of beer. just gave them a piece of paper with all the holes of the front plate marked out and of the engine stand plate. told them it has to be able to hold an engine and I need access to my plugs etc. a week later my engine was sitting pretty on my stand.

 

I have a pair that I fabbed up that you can have for 20 bucks shipped. I'm selling my engine stand too, so these wont be of any use to me.

 

anyone have a picture of a 13b on a stand with no adapter plate?

 

i've never used one, built two engines now with the front iron bolted straight to the stand.

 

+1 same here just bolted to the ac bracket studs on the from iron

 

I tore down my engine with no stand. I have some back issues and decided to use an engine stand for reassembly. I can't weld and friend who can weld were too busy to make me one. I bought from Pineapple and it worked as expected.

 

i have built approximately 200 engines without a stand adapter, some pictures for reference in my album.

i do periodically have to replace the mount bolts, about every 50 engines they begin to stress the threads on the hardened bolts that i use.

it certainly helps access things only a tiny bit easier with the proper mount adapter but i have never felt it necessary to even bother building one.

 

200 engines? thats amazing, thank you for the info

 

I made an adapter in ~15 mins. Steel plate with 5 holes in it (3 for front plate, 2 for engine stand). I was worried I would need more than 2 bolts for the engine stand but it was more than enough (only mounted the short block).

 

Like others, I built my engine without using a stand adapter. It wasn't a problem at all.

 

does anyone have a picture?

 

for FC engines i actually only just use one bolt and a stud to locate the engine and keep it from slipping.




i have had complete 400+lb long blocks sitting like this. but that is a bit extreme, i won't be libel for any loss of toes..

 

Attached are a couple photos from my rebuild.

No, the engine is not pretty, but Function>Form.

3 studs in the front iron. It can be a pain to flip a longblock, but there's really no reason to.

I like Karack's method better than mine. I hadn't seen that before or that's how I would've done it.

 

so you guys are using the ac/power steering pump studs?

 

Yes.

 

Here's another example of a front-iron-mount style. Currently only has ability to mount with three of the four bolts and will soon be drilled so all four can be installed through the angle. The four bolts have plenty of strength to hold a complete block so long as the threads on the bolts and in the iron are not damaged, and as long as the bolts are not exposed to any extreme shocks (eg.: bouncing, shaking, quick spinning / rolling, etc.).

 

When I rebuilt my engine I didn't have a stand. I actually built it on a milk crate with the center cut out for the E-shaft to go through. Now that I have a stand due to rebuilding the engine in my truck I will be getting the plates or some other way of mounting it if I build another rotary.

 

thanks guys appreciate all the help, what would be your suggestion for a first rebuild, watch a video? read books? Im doing this all on my own, but im sure ill be asking A LOT of questions on the forum while rebuilding

 

Watch a video and get the Factory Shop Manual if you don't already have one. Back when I did mine all I had was the Hayes and the FSM. I did talk to acouple locals that gave me acouple pointers and helped me get my flywheel off. No video and no internet access( I didn't own a computer) at the time. This was in '98. With the FSM a video and all the information on here you should be fine.

 

I have the FSM in PDF format and Aaron Cake's video on my YouTube favorites.

Having access to those two things (and Pandora) on my Kindle Fire (rooted with ICS) in the garage made the whole thing very easy.

 

alright awesome, the engine im rebuilding just needs oil seals any estimates on ho much that will run me?

 

there's always more to a rebuild than most people think, not sure why i have to always keep saying it though.

never expect to pull apart an original engine and just reseal it and put it back together or you will be spending a larger chunk of money in a few short months. OEM 3 piece seals are always out of spec just about anywhere beyond 130k miles, close to 200k and they will be borderline falling out of the seal slot. once they do they will destroy the rotor and housing.

oil seals, yes. also the corner seal springs should be updated and you need a gasket kit. so you need those, apex seals, new apex seal springs, side seal springs and also recommended to replace and trim the side seals to tighter tolerances.

$500 minimum in parts.

 

I "only" needed coolant seals at 200k miles.
I spent $562 in gaskets/seals from Atkins Rotary.
And then $250 for 2 spare engines cause my irons were trash.
And then $200 in misc coolant/oil/thermostat/plugs/etc.
And then a new cat converter was $160.
And then nothing else cause I'm broke, so I'm still on the stock exhaust/intake for now.

I went with all Atkins Rotary parts. I was happy with my purchase. I got the 86-88 N/A 13B Rx7 Overhaul Kit A and the 86-95 Rx7 13B 2mm Atkins Apex Seal Set.

So I spent over $1000 to fix leaking coolant seals, and that was doing everything myself. Luckily my apex seals didn't break and my housings were in excellent condition.

I don't regret one bit of it, I bought the car for $400 knowing it would need rebuilt. It was also great fun doing my first rotary rebuild! When it fired right up, I was literally cheering and dancing in the garage.