On the way home from work, the ADD COOLANT idiot light came on along with that loud-*** buzzer. I pulled off the highway and added coolant. The reservoir was at it's usual, fill line. So I still added more to it. (about 1 inch above the fill line) I was watching the temp gauge (stock one) like a hawk, and the core temp did not go up (SHEEW!)

However while checking the hoses I found a leak in the hose near the spark plugs that goes to the middle of the firewall. I assume it is going to the Heater core.

Obviously I need to replace that hose. The question is, can I drive 30 miles to work saftly? Once at work I can drop the car off at a local shop and have them replace that.

What should I be looking to pay for parts and labor? There are a few in the area and I don't want to get screwed.

Also is there anyway I can disable that buzzing temporarly? Maybe pulling a fuse?
I dont' even want to think about driving for 40 min listening to that horrendious sound.

Thanks for the input!

Matt|ttaM

 

Common hose to replace. It gets saturated with oil from leaks and drops when filling or removing the oil filter without draining the filter first. The hose is only about $30 at Mazdatrix and most dealers. It should take maybe 15 minutes to swap out on a non turbo.

But you can not drive on it if it is leaking.

 

That same heater hose has broken in both RX7s i've owned right at the joint were It bends into the engine.

I suggest you temporarily block it off (you need to block off the other relevant hose as well near the firewall) for now and replace the hose whenever you feel like it.

...I blocked it off on both cars, not much use for a heater core where I live

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Icemark. If I do replace the hose myself how do i prevent coolant from leaking all over the court? I really have no garrage, or driveway to make repairs. Are there anyother tricks to doing this?

I am good with electrical repairs. Have never replace a hose.

Matt|ttaM

 

What is a good common household Item I can block it off with? It is leaking at the engine side. Can I use a big triangle super paper clip thing?

If I can make it to work, I can easily get it fixed. No mess no enviromental concern. (Coolant spill)

Thanks!

Matt|ttaM

 

there will be actually very little coolant loss when you remove it. It is high enough that it doesn't dump the whole system.

 

Don't try and block it off with anything household. Go to any auto parts store and get rubber caps that are the same size as the hose's diameter. They will hold up just fine.

You cant just get a replacement hose at any auto parts store (atleast not a *permanent* replacement) because they wont stock one with the bends you need. You will need a few days to procure a perment replacement.

I have to disagree with Icemark on the following:

-If the hose has BURST (like on my GXL) you obviously can't drive it.
-If it's leaking (drip............................................. .. drip) under WOT while the car is fully warmed up (like on my TII) then I don't see any harm in driving it <5 miles to the closest autoparts store for the rubber caps.

 

yeah, its just that if it is original and is leaking, the burst stage comes very fast after the leaking stage and without any further warning.

that's why I don't recommend driving on one that is leaking.

 

Currently the car has 183k miles on it. The previous owner replace the engine at 100k miles. (blown apex seals) Wouldnt' they replace all hoses when installing a new engine? He had it installed at the dealership (apparently this one knew rotaries) so the hose is def stock.

This car is my daily driver. I have only had my current job for a month, so I can't use the "car broke down excuse" quiet yet.

If I call AAA and have them tow it to the shop near work, ( I think it's a midas or something like that) Would they be able to get the hose and install it today?

Thanks as always for replies!

Matt|ttaM

 

Well AAA will not schedual a pickup. I will "limp" to the local dealer before I go to work. Perhaps they will have the hose in stock. If not there is a pep boys across the street. I will try the clip idea. Thanks Icemark, and Syncro, you have been a great help!

Matt|ttaM

 

when the car is cool, fill the radiator to the top (the meatal cap, not the resevior), this should stop the buzzing till quite abit more coolant leakes out.

 

I had done that twice. It takes about 5 min for the buzzer to reactivate.


Update:
I went to the local Mazda dealer, and was able to order the hose. It won't be here until friday at 10:30. =(
Next I went to pepboys and looked for something to clamp off the hoses. I didn't find anything that would do a good job. So I returned home, and directed my girlfriend to take me to work. If anyone has any tips and tricks on hose replacement I'd like to hear them. This will be my first hose job. =)

Matt|ttaM

 

I think Icemark had a thread on it a while back, but I don't know if he had instructions in it:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=heater+hose

After reading it, it looks like that Kevin has a cheap fix for the leaky hose too at the end of the thread

 

Icemark ownes!

Thanks for this post. I searched like a **** last night and I didn't find this thread.

Matt|ttaM

 

One more thing to remember if you're new to this kind of work. DO NOT twist/turn/yank the old hose off of the heater core (where the hose connects to the firewall.) Use a brand-new blade in a razor knife and slit the old hose length-wise (front to back) in two places, opposite each other, and then GENTLY peel it off of the fitting. If you twist/yank/pull hard on the hose, you may break the connection into the heater core, and THAT job you don't want to even think about. Before installing the new hose, put some liquid dish detergent on the fittings, and on the inside of the first 2 inches of each end of the hose, and it'll slip on easily.

 

there was a crack on my heater hose because the thermostat broke. if you ever change the thermostat make sure you install it in correctly.

 

Thanks for this idea. I am having someone from work help me as well. If anything goes wrong I have a couple of mechanics not even a block away here I can push the Seven to.
I got the part from the Mazda dealership. =/

The part number is FB03-61-211

Thanks again!

Matt|ttaM