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Help! No Spark! Brain Buster?!? Asap!

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Old 06-08-03, 07:21 PM
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Help! No Spark! Brain Buster?!? Asap!

Can anyone help??
I just put the engine back in my car and it was running great!
I was just flushing the rad today, and with the engine running, I accidentally sprayed a TINY bit of water into the turbo inlet (had the filter off) Really not that much at all, maybe 1/4 oz.
Anyways, the engine sputtered out, and failed to start up again. I thought it was flooded or something, but the plugs were dry, except for one plug that had a water droplet on it.

Anyways, it won't start because I have NO SPARK now...

Why? I blew the 100a main fuse too- but I replaced it, and still no spark at all.
ALL the other fuses are good- underhood and inside the car.
WTF?
TELL ME there isn't any way that the ECU fried or something.... why do I still have no spark?????
I don't smell gas while cranking it either... so no fuel too. It's acting like the EGI fuse is pulled.

HELP!!!
Old 06-08-03, 07:41 PM
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C'mon- anyone?
Are there any other tests or anything I can do or check?
Old 06-08-03, 08:42 PM
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Oh crap- could I have blown my MSD??
Old 06-08-03, 08:50 PM
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Never mind... still wouldn't explain why I have no fuel going in....
Old 06-08-03, 09:56 PM
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15A engine fuse inside the cabin would be the first place I looked. Be sure your afm is plugged in as well.
Old 06-09-03, 01:07 AM
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Yep- they're all good.
Evn if the AFM is plugged in you would at least get a spark and a coughing "trying to start" noise when cranking wouldn't you?
I get nothing - no spark- no cough, just a solid cranking (no it's not flooded).
Old 06-09-03, 09:08 AM
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Smile No Spark

Check your flow meter and also the relay that is under the Trailing coils they are two one is the factory alarm and the other is the egi control.
Old 06-09-03, 01:04 PM
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Everything seems to be working... I've got 12v going to the coils... I've got 12v on the solonoids wires (ECU output)..

BUT I don't have any voltage on the boost sensor wire!
From what HAILERS had said before, that means that the ECU could very well be cooked?
Any other thoughts?

Now, the EGI relay.. the only thing I hear when I pull the egi fuse in or out is a funny nose from the relays up at the front of the car- by the washer bottle.. makes a funny squeak/buzz noise the instant that the fuse is REMOVED, but nothing when it's put back in- funny....
If that relay is bad, then would that explain the bost sensor diagnosis??
Old 06-09-03, 01:07 PM
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That noise is the MSD, I just found out... it just means that it is getting power.
Old 06-09-03, 01:36 PM
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Also no power at the TPS.... my S-AFC isn't showing any voltage for the sensor check.....
Also- the ignition has been in the "ON" position for about 20 minutes now.. and it killed the battery.
Guess the ECU is gone.
Now, I need an N/A ECU ASAP! Anyone have one? Mine says 351 on it, but others will work...
Old 06-09-03, 01:45 PM
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It seems to me if the car has 12v at the coils, then all it needs is a trigger from the ECU. If the cas is ocnnected up, and I'm sure it is, and the ECU plugs are connected up, then I'd check if there is a reference voltage coming out of the ECU. That's not too hard to check out. Just pull the boost sensor connector and with the key to ON, see if the 4-5 volts is there. Should be a Brown/White wire.

Most likely its good, but if you don't see 5volts there, that means....to me....that there is trouble in the ECU. I bought a busted ECU from a fellow and that ECU won't fire the coils on my car. I found that there is no reference voltage being put out on that ECU, so I'm assuming it the device that supplies ref voltage ain't a puttin out there is a relationship to it and the lack of trigger voltage for the coil assy.

I forgot....does your fuel pump work? If you have 12 to the coils the thing should pump. They are tied together. Both depend on the ENGINE fuse in the crew compartment being good. Jumper the fuel pump check connector and listen at the fuel tank cap for the sound of he pump.

Popping a Main Fuse takes some doing. The only time I've done that is touching a screwdriver against the alternator post while doing some maintence.

I wouldn't use a timing lite to check for spark. One lead plug off and place it next to a strut bolt/whatever and look for spark.

If you want/need to save your starter you might pull the cas and turn the key on and just spin the cas and look for spark. You might think twice about that approach. No sense making more problems by accident.
Old 06-16-03, 10:22 PM
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Update.....
Replaced the ECU and the OMP. Turns out my old OMP wasn't bad after all. Had nothing to do with it
No difference at all!!

So it's NOT the ECU?? Or I got a bad one.

Here's the situation-
100amp fuse blew- engine cut out.
No spark/fuel while cranking
Fuel pump runs when jumpering the test/prime connector.
12v at coils
I get 12v at the solenoids
I DON'T get 5v at sensors (TPS AFM, pressure)
All fuses good. EGI, engine, etc. I get current to the MSD when EGI fuse is in.

With the car on, if I try to jump the blown 100a fuse, there is nothing. There is NO current going through that circuit.

I'm guessing it has to be a wiring short- something grounded out? Relays??
An ideas??
Old 06-17-03, 12:18 AM
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I'd guess the MSD are the problem. Any chance of installing the stock coil assy's?
Old 06-17-03, 12:27 AM
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i don't know if this is it or not.. but make sure all wires are pushed into the ecu.. i had this problem with my car when i plugged my ECU back into the wiring harness one of hte pins for the CAS had pushed it way out and wasn't triggering hte coils.
Old 06-17-03, 09:04 AM
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Still not getting fuel or 5v at the sensors.. off to check all the wiring! I'll update soon.
Old 06-17-03, 09:46 AM
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You really need to take the ECU out and put in another car. I would not take a ECU out of a good car and put it in yours. Your car might be the cause of the ECU's going bad (possibly going bad, I should say).

Go to the manual and look in the secton called Control System in the Fuel chapter. Get the meter out and check the output/inputs on each wire on the ECU. I'd start with the small plug first. Shove the meter lead in the back of the plug with it connected up.


Go to pin 2A and see if you have 5volts with the key to ON. It's gotta be there imho. Just a shade tree mechanic, but I say the same device that gives you the reference voltage has some relationship to the device that triggers the coil assy's. If it ain't there at 2A, then the car ain't a gonna start.
Old 06-17-03, 10:25 AM
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Don't you mean 2I?
That's the pin that has the 5v out to the sensors.
And no- I'm not getting 5v there, and I'm also not getting anything at 1J- it's a trailing coil signal, supposed to be at 4.4v (probably supplied by the same Vref signal that the other sensors are)

OK- I have checked everything. Main relay, all that.
What the hell would be causing this??
I'm getting 12v to the ECU.
The entire ECU wiring harness chekcs out fine- there isn't current on any wires that aren't supposed to have it.
The only thing is the 5v Vref signal on pin 2I- I don't get it. I'm also supposed to have 4.4v on that with ign on. I have 0.


I wonder what the odds are that this ECU is bad? I took it apart and it doesn't have any signs of damage at all though.
I'm almost at my wits end.

What can I start checking in terms of shorts??
12V on any of the sensor wires or something?
Even if there was a dead short to ground on any of the sensors it would still be fine wouldn't it? (since 5v is at the top of the sensor range) Also.. if there WAS 12v on any of the sensor wires (overloading them) it would have shown up on my check.

Last edited by Bambam7; 06-17-03 at 10:49 AM.
Old 06-17-03, 11:06 AM
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Update!!
ECU is fine.

With 2I pin disconnected (I pulled the whole middle pin) on the car side of the harness, guess what comes out of the pin on the ECU side?? 5V!!

So- it's not blown.. something on that circuit has a dead ground, and is not allowing the signal to get to anything else.

I'm starting a new thread, I have to find out every thing that the 5v Vref signal feeds.
Old 06-22-03, 11:31 AM
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I had the same problem and it turned out to be the mass flow air meter was shorted out. I had power all over the place but because the air meter connects to the ECU for some reason, it would not provide the impulse to the coils. FYI, the meter also controls the fuel pump and provides power to the pump only after the engine starts and the flap is pulled open by the engine's pulling in air. Like you, I replaced the ECU, variable resistor and even all the wiring to the coils but nothing. Pull out the air meter and check it as specified in your repair manual. Your's may have a faulty seal or cracked housing that allowed water into the electrical portion of the meter. Good luck!
Old 06-22-03, 11:48 AM
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****Don't you mean 2I?**** Sorry, I'm series four oriented.
Old 06-22-03, 11:54 AM
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Crank angle Sensor?
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