HELP Flooding
#1
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HELP Flooding
Ok I really need help, my 87 TII is flooding. It first started yesterday when I went to the shop n when I wanted to move it it wouldnt start. So I push it in the shop n left it there. The next day I went n turn it on with no problem, n left it on for like 20 mins to see if it would do it again. So after I turned it off, i tired crankin it again n it would not start. So I deflood it n started it up. Again I left it running for awhile n turn it back off. Then tired to turn it on again n it would not start. So now I dont know what it is, so ANY help pleasen thanks in advance.
#3
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Install a fuel cutoff switch for the fuel pump and get your injectors cleaned/rebuilt. That is the culprit of flooding IIRC. The switch is a temp. fix to the injectors and can be done in short tim eand with as much as $8 depending on teh switch you buy and if you dont have any wire or connectors handy. I think i paid $5 for a small rocker switch that has a single led light to let me know its on, and had teh wire and had teh female connectors and such on hand as well. You simply find a point near the ignition, for one finger access durign cranking, and drill teh correct sized hole for teh switch. The hard part is searching for the right wires that lead to the pump. I was fortunate enough to have had it on my car when i bought it, but you can search the forums for someone who has already explained it in better detail.
#4
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K thanks, but also what causes it to flood just while I have it ON. I didnt even drive it, I just left it on and turn it off n then tired to turn it on but it was already flooded.
#7
The Brap is Back
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Id search for the exact number of ways but you either install a cut off switch(also good for theft deterrance), replace/rebuild/clean your injectors, or check to see how low yoru compression is. And as an added bonus...you could check all yoru grounds...god only knows ho w many problems those solve.
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#11
the trick to unflooding your 7 is to pull your EGI Fuse and crank, then put the fuse back and it should start. NOW...i have never put a fuel cut switch in but i would guess you could take one of the leads that goes to that fuse, run it back into your car put a switch in, and run it back to that fuse and it would work fine...
#12
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Go to this thread and read the post by the Kiwi: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...uel+cut+switch
#13
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Check your compression!!
I can't say it enough. Yes, the injectors may be leaky, but they might just be masking the fact that the engine has low compression already. I went through getting my injectors cleaned by RC engineering, and they did indeed need it, but it turned out my engine was already getting a bit tired. Low compression was to blame for the flooding issues.
Using a standard compression tester gauge, is such a cheap and easy thing to do, there is no reason not to check your numbers. It's just good to know as well.
I can't say it enough. Yes, the injectors may be leaky, but they might just be masking the fact that the engine has low compression already. I went through getting my injectors cleaned by RC engineering, and they did indeed need it, but it turned out my engine was already getting a bit tired. Low compression was to blame for the flooding issues.
Using a standard compression tester gauge, is such a cheap and easy thing to do, there is no reason not to check your numbers. It's just good to know as well.
#15
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Can't remember specifics off the top of my head, you could do a search on "compression numbers" and definitely get a bunch of hits. Or check the FSM online.
I do know from what I have researched, that 90 psi and lower is already getting tired, and probably just a matter of time. I believe a new or newly rebuilt engine is going to be close to, or above 120 psi. (Edit - just to note, newly rebuilt engines actually have lower compression, they need to be broken in first. So I actually should have said newly rebuilt and broken-in engines, in that statement.)
I do know from what I have researched, that 90 psi and lower is already getting tired, and probably just a matter of time. I believe a new or newly rebuilt engine is going to be close to, or above 120 psi. (Edit - just to note, newly rebuilt engines actually have lower compression, they need to be broken in first. So I actually should have said newly rebuilt and broken-in engines, in that statement.)
Last edited by -Six-; 11-20-05 at 12:20 PM.
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